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Slp Sfc ?

This is a discussion on Slp Sfc ? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I am going to be installing some SLP subframe connectors and was wondering how much can they been seen from ...

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    Go Vols! x10-wakerider's Avatar
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    Slp Sfc ?

    I am going to be installing some SLP subframe connectors and was wondering how much can they been seen from the side of the car? Anyone have any pics of them installed?

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    Space Cadet RainMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10-wakerider
    I am going to be installing some SLP subframe connectors and was wondering how much can they been seen from the side of the car? Anyone have any pics of them installed?
    Check this Thread: Pic's of my SLP SFC's
    subframe connector

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    Go Vols! x10-wakerider's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics!

    I have a black ss and was thinking of getting them powdercoated red. Do you think they will show to much?

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    Space Cadet RainMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10-wakerider
    Thanks for the pics!

    I have a black ss and was thinking of getting them powder-coated red. Do you think they will show to much?
    Actually I think it would be a good contrast, Black Car with Red Under-body Suspension & Chassis components. They will show a little, but you have to get down low to see it up close, like laying on the ground. From a distance you can see it slightly under the car as you walk up to the car.
    Not bad at all.

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    Go Vols! x10-wakerider's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info!

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    I would have to agree with the contrasting red sfc. I recently installed the slp bolt ins on my 01 ws6, which is red and so I left my sfcs black for some contrasting colors. I was also concerned about ground clearance because of our trenches on our Alaska roadway system, and wanting to lower it 1" in the future. After they were installed I was glad to see they are only 1.5" lower then the pinch welds.

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    Slp Sfc

    Hi All:
    Also in the process of installing a set of SLP SFCs but the thing that aggrivated me was the lack of torque values for production fasteners which must be disturbed. The instruction sheet says "TIGHT", the value of tight is a subjective value. My wifes tight is finger tight to me and my son says my tight is to never be loosened again. I called SLP to get the torque values and was again told the torque value was tight. Having spent twenty nine years working at one of the major auto manufactures proving grounds, I know that every bolt on a vehicle has a torque value and is assembled per a process to that value. Torque values are given for a reason... I guess I became a first and last time customer. It makes me wonder if they can't pay attention to torque values of disturbed production fasteners how much attention they are paying to the design of their parts. One persons view.

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    Space Cadet RainMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadHugger
    Hi All:
    Also in the process of installing a set of SLP SFCs but the thing that aggrivated me was the lack of torque values for production fasteners which must be disturbed. The instruction sheet says "TIGHT", the value of tight is a subjective value. My wifes tight is finger tight to me and my son says my tight is to never be loosened again. I called SLP to get the torque values and was again told the torque value was tight. Having spent twenty nine years working at one of the major auto manufactures proving grounds, I know that every bolt on a vehicle has a torque value and is assembled per a process to that value. Torque values are given for a reason... I guess I became a first and last time customer. It makes me wonder if they can't pay attention to torque values of disturbed production fasteners how much attention they are paying to the design of their parts. One persons view.
    #8 - 14 in. lbs.
    #10 - 22 in. lbs.
    1/4 " - 10 ft. lbs.
    5/16" - 19 ft. lbs.
    3/8" - 33 ft. lbs.
    7/16" - 54 ft. lbs.
    1/2" - 58 ft. lbs.
    9/16" - 114 ft. lbs.
    5/8" - 154 ft. lbs.



    Also try the Links to calculate approx values based on SAE bolt size/grade


    Last edited by RainMan; 04-11-2006 at 08:16 PM.

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    Insane WinSomeLoseNone's Avatar
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    Hmmmm - not that i think SLP maked a bad product, but UMI subframe connectors come powdercoated in your choice of color and they have a more sturdy design than SLP. They bolt onto the tunnelbrace like slp bit instead of bolting onto the sides of the rear they bolt directly ONTO to lower control arm mounts. It's a very sturdy setup and costs $30.00 more but comes with powdercoating.

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    I would have to agree that it would have been easier if they had listed torque specs, since not everyone has the factory service manual set like I went and got. The manual states that the center cross member bolts are to be torqued to 20 lb ft on t-top cars on page 8-1095 in the gm service manual. The rear control arm bolts are suppose to be 87 lb ft, on page 3-60 in the manual. On the front four I went off the bolt size vs torque spec scale since gm did not ever have bolts there, there is no spec in the manual for those bolts.

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    Space Cadet RainMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone
    Hmmmm - not that i think SLP makes a bad product, but UMI sub-frame connectors come powdercoated in your choice of color and they have a more sturdy design than SLP. They bolt onto the tunnel brace like slp bit instead of bolting onto the sides of the rear they bolt directly ONTO to lower control arm mounts. It's a very sturdy setup and costs $30.00 more but comes with powdercoating.
    I was originally going to go with the UMI set-up. But I found someone local selling a set of SLP's and for a tick over $100, couldn't pass'em up.

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    Thanks RainMan & Frozen WS6 for the info. I went elsewhere after calling SLP and obtained the manufacture spec for the fasteners to be disturbed. My only gripe was that SLP didn't supply them but gave a spec which is subjective to the paticular person performing the work. Thanks again & happy motoring!

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    Junior Member caseyWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen WS6
    I would have to agree that it would have been easier if they had listed torque specs, since not everyone has the factory service manual set like I went and got. The manual states that the center cross member bolts are to be torqued to 20 lb ft on t-top cars on page 8-1095 in the gm service manual. The rear control arm bolts are suppose to be 87 lb ft, on page 3-60 in the manual. On the front four I went off the bolt size vs torque spec scale since gm did not ever have bolts there, there is no spec in the manual for those bolts.
    what about on a convertible?

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    CaseyWS6. The torque specs will be the same as a t-top car from what the service manual says. As far as being seen, you have to be standing pretty far away. If a person doesn't know what they are looking for they will never see them. It only has 1.5" exposed below the rocker pinch weld. Even the mustang that pulls up next to you at a stop light will never know unless they climb under your car. Trust me, I'm extremly picky, due to our poorly maintained alaska roads and I didn't want to drag them on anything. I also wanted to lower my car 1" in the future so that would be pushing my clearance.The brand to buy seems to come down to price and personal prefrence. I am happy with my slp's. I know there are alot of choices but for a driver and occasional drag race these will work fine.

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