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SFCs finally!

This is a discussion on SFCs finally! within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; 2 credit cards(<- ) down, only 2 to go. So I figured I derserve alittle treat and ordered the UMI ...

  1. #1
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    SFCs finally!

    2 credit cards(<- ) down, only 2 to go. So I figured I derserve alittle treat and ordered the UMI 3-point SFC today. Looking for some input from some people who have installed the bolt-ons before.

    The only thing I have heard is to make sure the suspension has the cars full load (weight) on it. So I need to jack it up off the ground, place wood/bricks/rhino ramps underneath? I read through instal university and they did it on a jack, lifting from the frame and it was also weld-ins. So not much help there.

    Also, I've heard of people getting poping noises from them, does this go away after driving around for a while and re-tightening the bolts down?

    Would thread locker be a bad idea?

    Any other tips?

    Thanks!

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    I installed the UMI 2-point bolt ons in about 45 minutes by myself. I borrowed a 4-post lift at a local garage. So long as the suspension is loaded though, you should be fine -- a set of ramps under the front wheels and jackstands under the rear axle will do it. Just make sure the car is level so there is no chance that it will roll!

    I used thread locker on the bolts and torqued them to spec. I do get an occasional clunk on the right side of the car, but I can not say for certain that it's the SFC as we had not driven the car all that much before the install. They tuck up under real nice and definitely tightened things up.

  3. #3
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    Congrads on the CC payoffs and the new SFC purchase.

    Thanks,
    Mark

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I installed the UMI 2-point bolt ons in about 45 minutes by myself. I borrowed a 4-post lift at a local garage. So long as the suspension is loaded though, you should be fine -- a set of ramps under the front wheels and jackstands under the rear axle will do it. Just make sure the car is level so there is no chance that it will roll!

    I used thread locker on the bolts and torqued them to spec. I do get an occasional clunk on the right side of the car, but I can not say for certain that it's the SFC as we had not driven the car all that much before the install. They tuck up under real nice and definitely tightened things up.
    Ok, thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by marksls1ta View Post
    Congrads on the CC payoffs and the new SFC purchase.

    Thanks,
    Mark
    Thanks!

    Lol, I have to thank you, I purchased them from you.

  5. #5
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    If you know anyone with a shop best if you can borrow a lift. I have every part of suspension but mu UMI front upper and lower arm set and SFC's. I was actually going to use the liftat my friends Midas to install them a do a small weld around each location just for some extra support buy nothing to major incase anything happens later and I need to remove the I'll just have to grind the welds off.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanJM View Post
    If you know anyone with a shop best if you can borrow a lift. I have every part of suspension but mu UMI front upper and lower arm set and SFC's. I was actually going to use the liftat my friends Midas to install them a do a small weld around each location just for some extra support buy nothing to major incase anything happens later and I need to remove the I'll just have to grind the welds off.
    That's why I went with the bolt ins, so if need be I can weld them later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    That's why I went with the bolt ins, so if need be I can weld them later.
    Same here.

  8. #8
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    Thanks for the purchase.

    Mark

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    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    The 3pt bolt ins are not that hard to install. I used ramps in the front and two jack stand under the rear axle and the jack under the pig just for insurance. Make sure you chock the front tires, as with the rear in the air there is nothing to stop it from rolling.
    You will benefit greatly from having a helper. You might have to do some pulling and pushing to get the bolt holes to line up. The pulling was worth it on my car. The gap on the passenger side of the hood disapeared.
    I get a little popping if I hit a bad pothole or railroad tracks going fast.
    Congrats on the credit card payoff and the sfc purchase. You will be happy you did both.

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    What about if you have access to a drive-on lift? Would this make things easier?

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28_Driver View Post
    The 3pt bolt ins are not that hard to install. I used ramps in the front and two jack stand under the rear axle and the jack under the pig just for insurance. Make sure you chock the front tires, as with the rear in the air there is nothing to stop it from rolling.
    You will benefit greatly from having a helper. You might have to do some pulling and pushing to get the bolt holes to line up. The pulling was worth it on my car. The gap on the passenger side of the hood disapeared.
    I get a little popping if I hit a bad pothole or railroad tracks going fast.
    Congrats on the credit card payoff and the sfc purchase. You will be happy you did both.
    Thanks for the advice. I might back the car up onto the ramps if clearance will allow me, that way I can have the brake/ tranny hold the wheels. What brand of ramps do you use? Rhinos?

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrikerWS6 View Post
    What about if you have access to a drive-on lift? Would this make things easier?
    As I have read more and more on these, the easiest way to install them is when the tires had a full load on them, making it difficult/ dangerous to do on a lift.

    Unless the lift had tire grooves....

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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    As I have read more and more on these, the easiest way to install them is when the tires had a full load on them, making it difficult/ dangerous to do on a lift.

    Unless the lift had tire grooves....
    but thats what i mean, if you had access to a drive-on type of hoist where all four wheels are on it, wouldnt this mean the tires were under load just like when the car is under load on the street, therefore making installs easier.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrikerWS6 View Post
    but thats what i mean, if you had access to a drive-on type of hoist where all four wheels are on it, wouldnt this mean the tires were under load just like when the car is under load on the street, therefore making installs easier.
    Ahh, now I get you. The only lift that anyone I know has is a frame lift (4 arms). Each one has it's own benefits, but in the long run I think I'd rather have the four arms.

    But your right, for this install, a drive on lift would be perfect!

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    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Thanks for the advice. I might back the car up onto the ramps if clearance will allow me, that way I can have the brake/ tranny hold the wheels. What brand of ramps do you use? Rhinos?
    mine are rhinos, about 6 or 7 years old, but still work great.

  16. #16
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z28_Driver View Post
    mine are rhinos, about 6 or 7 years old, but still work great.
    I'll have to pick a pair of those up. Maybe even 2 sets to use for the Jeep.

    Hopefully I can turn this into a alittle write up, the only ones I've seen have been the weld-ins.

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    a ramp was fine......ramped up the back.....put on the SFC 1 side at a time....did the bolts hand tight......lowered....and tighted them bolts down hard...took me about 45 min......dont forget the loctite

  18. #18
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjsingle1 View Post
    a ramp was fine......ramped up the back.....put on the SFC 1 side at a time....did the bolts hand tight......lowered....and tighted them bolts down hard...took me about 45 min......dont forget the loctite
    Thanks! Red or blue? I imagine that blue would work well enough in the event you ever need to remove anything, but still hold better than nothing.

    Just got all of the parts in today, after KY Speed sorted out UMI's mix up for me! Those guys don't screw around and take care of their customers. I'll def. be making future purchases from them.

    Let's see if I can put a write up together this weekend...

    Thanks for the input thus far guys.

  19. #19
    Member marksls1ta's Avatar
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    thanks for the purchase.

    also I dont get emails from this site for some reason. Please send PM if you need anything.

    Thanks,
    Mark

  20. #20
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marksls1ta View Post
    thanks for the purchase.

    also I dont get emails from this site for some reason. Please send PM if you need anything.

    Thanks,
    Mark
    Ok, good to know.

    Does anyone know if you need to have the cars weight on the front tires? Seems you need to only have the back tires fully loaded since they have lca attached to the area where you attach part of the UMI SFC. Where in the front you don't get nearly as close to the suspension, just to the uni-body.

    Makes sense to me

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