SFC

[j nix]

I want to keep my car frame from moving by adding SFC's. What are all the upgrades I need to do. And should I get adjustable connectors. Do i need the adjustments?
So far I am looking at
Sway bars front and rear by UMI. Is hollow ok?
SFC 2 point by UMI
Panhard rod UMI
Shock tower brace SLP or UMI. Is hollow ok?
k Member tubular with 2 cross tubes UMI
Control arms?
And i was thinking either Bilstein BTS springs and shocks or AGX and QA1 for adjustment?

Am I missing anything and does this setup and brands sound right? I think I am close after reading a bunch of other threads. I was hoping I could get some opinions on my setup. Thanks.

[RyanJM]

I have double adj. UMI LCA's and Panhard set- great especially if you lower it.
I also have there strut brace and LCA recocation brackets- fit great.
I have Spohn sway bars since UMI had none listed for sale when I got my set but a great uprade.
Doing the SFC's order now and I'm doing UMI 2 point.
I am doing their control arms since one of mine is slightly dented.
Although I was going to do the K member but have heard alot of bad things about having problems on DD cars. If it's not a DD shouldn't matter.

[UMI Performance]

Hello,

What are you looking to gain by adding these items? Improved ride quality, improved handling/performance? Are you looking for a slightly lowered look as well?

Just a few questions to help us help you

Thanks!
Ryan

[j nix]

Thanks Ryan. Glad to see you chime in. Just the guy I need to talk to. I will tell you how I want to drive my car. I want to be able to take corners hard and street race in pretty much a straight line. It is not a DD so I pretty much always drive it hard. I would like more performance and I want a nice smooth ride, but it is a performance vehicle so the smooth ride comes last. I havent looked at alot of pics on lowered cars. I dont know if i want that. What are the benefits of the lowereing, just cosmetic? I want a good complete package.

[UMI Performance]

I am glad to help.

You mentioned springs in your first post so that is why I guessed lowering. The correct lowering springs offer stiffer rates than factory which in return will give you a more balanced and controllable suspension. If you are not looking for the lowered look then the stock springs might be best. We use and recommend the Strano springs which give you good performance, good ride quality and only a slight drop of 1.2". Depending on your budget for shocks we have found the SLP Bilsteins to be a great shock for the price, you can get a set of 4 shocks for $410.00 and add lowering springs for another $250.00.

For sway bars UMI only offers solid chrome moly sway bars, hollow sway bars are going to save you weight. We sell our UMI sway bar kit for $319.99 and a hollow sway bar set from Strano Parts is $389.99. We sell the Strano bars as well, again it just depends on your budget. Both kits include new bushings and endlinks.

Those are the areas I will start at and put your money first. Other things would be a adj. panhard bar and it won't hurt to have a set of SFC's either now or later down the road.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Ryan

[j nix]

I deffinately want to put on SFC's, black, NBM or chrome. I have to clean trans fluid from the bottom of my car from a leak and then I want to put the shocks and springs on. Do I just go to a web site? do you have a link?

[UMI Performance]

I deffinately want to put on SFC's, black, NBM or chrome. I have to clean trans fluid from the bottom of my car from a leak and then I want to put the shocks and springs on. Do I just go to a web site? do you have a link?

Our website is www.umiperformance.com

We don't have the shocks and springs on there right now so we could do that by e-mail or phone, I will get our web admin to add them soon.

If you have any addition questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

[phoenixXIV]

Not to steal the thread or anything, but I'm in the same situation and had a few questions. What are the advantages of boxed SFC's vs. tubular for a daily driver? I also heard that 3-point's are a little overkill vs. the 2-point's for DD's. And would a single adjustable panhard bar be sufficient, or should I go ahead and look into an on-car adjustable?

[UMI Performance]

Not to steal the thread or anything, but I'm in the same situation and had a few questions. What are the advantages of boxed SFC's vs. tubular for a daily driver? I also heard that 3-point's are a little overkill vs. the 2-point's for DD's. And would a single adjustable panhard bar be sufficient, or should I go ahead and look into an on-car adjustable?

Boxed or tubular would be fine for a daily driver or any type of vehicle for that matter. With a street type car you can even get away with bolt in style, welding is always best but we understand not everyone has this capability. 3-Points are overkill for many applications and you wouldn't need them.

The single adj. PHB will work the same as a on-car adjustable, it is just harder to adjust. The single adjustable requires you to unbolt the bar from the car to adjust while the on-car does not. This is the only difference besides getting different bushings.

Hope that helps!
Ryan