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setting proper u-joint and pinion angle

This is a discussion on setting proper u-joint and pinion angle within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Pinion Angle Tired of breaking cases and drive shafts? There are many books that misled you on setting the pinion ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    setting proper u-joint and pinion angle

    Pinion Angle

    Tired of breaking cases and drive shafts? There are many books that misled you on setting the pinion angle. For Drag Racing this is simple. You are trying to set the pinion angle to be parallel with the centerline of the engine & transmission on hard acceleration. To achieve this you must first figure out the parallel setting of the rear end to correspond to the angle of the engine & transmission, then add the proper amount of pinion angle. Add 1 deg. for 4-Link vehicles, 2 to 3 deg. for ladder-bar vehicles. Place stands under suspension to duplicate vehicle at ride height. Caution do not remove drive shaft without securing vehicle first. Take measurement with drive shaft removed. (shown below)




    Operating Angle

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Operating angles in a driveshaft are the angles between the pinion, driveshaft and transmission centerlines. The optimal angle for any driveshaft to run at is 0 degrees, where many vibrational and frictional problems are non-existent. In order to minimize power loss and vibration in an offset configuration, the pinion centerline and the transmission centerline need to be parallel. In general, the largest angle for racing applications should be 2 degrees and the centerlines should be parallel within 1/2 degree. If the centerlines are off too far, the u-joints travel at different speeds causing vibration (this is the same problem induced by poorly phased end yokes). This vibration is hard to distinguish from an unbalanced driveshaft.


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    Just installed S&W sub frame connectors w/adjustable torque arm. The car now has a strong vibration,especially at highway speeds.Would you expect this to be an incorrect pinion angle condition or normal driveline vibrations being transmitted into the car by the floorpan mounting of the subframe connectors? The S&W adjustable torque arm bolts to the sub frame connector cross member, not in the factory location on the side of the transmission. New Moser 9". No vibrations prior to install.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    assuming the u-joint angle is within the 2* as described, then yes you are getting vibrations through the SFCs.
    Last edited by mrr23; 01-11-2007 at 08:11 PM.

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    I've been checking out some of the previous threads relating to setting of the pinion angle. There were some pretty strong opinions expressed. I'm still having the same vibration problems but trying to work it out. I found a website that includes layman language,clear instructions,photographs and examples- vibratesoftware com. Then click on "Propshaft Angle Correction Calculator". Unfortunately, you will have to use a Kent-Moore Driveshaft Inclinometer to use the procedures described. Assuming I will eventually solve the mystery of the vibrating Camaro can it be expected that the stock aluminum driveshaft w/Spicer 1310 U-joints in front and 1350's in back(Moser 9", 4.11's, Detroit Tru-Trac and T-56) and 473 rwhp and 491 rwtq through the muffler(THANK YOU EAST SIDE PERFORMANCE!) will survive w/M/T ET Streets and an expected 4000 launch RPM?

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls14gezr View Post
    can it be expected that the stock aluminum driveshaft w/Spicer 1310 U-joints in front and 1350's in back(Moser 9", 4.11's, Detroit Tru-Trac and T-56) and 473 rwhp and 491 rwtq through the muffler(THANK YOU EAST SIDE PERFORMANCE!) will survive w/M/T ET Streets and an expected 4000 launch RPM?

    no....

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    Setting proper u-joint and pinion angle

    Hey Orange-thank you for your insight. Never did test the theory of the aluminum driveshaft. Went with a steel shaft and Spicer 1350"s. Ran all season with no problems(4500 launch RPM w/12 psi). I ordered the Kent-Moore Driveshaft Inclinometer. Took 3 months to get. Very disappointed. For $150 I expected more. Figured I could better so that's what I'm going to do. I'll post pic's when done. Had a a very satisfying season. Best time 11.15 @ 122 through the exhaust. Now I have to get a roll bar! Going to work on the chassis/suspension this winter to improve 60'- best 1.62. Might be able to get into the ten's. Pretty remarkable for a stock appearing vehicle I can drive on the highway with the a/c on and over 20 MPG. Got to love the LS1!

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    Member Orange SS's Avatar
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    cool

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    trafficKING sobaka79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls14gezr View Post
    Just installed S&W sub frame connectors w/adjustable torque arm. The car now has a strong vibration,especially at highway speeds.Would you expect this to be an incorrect pinion angle condition or normal driveline vibrations being transmitted into the car by the floorpan mounting of the subframe connectors? The S&W adjustable torque arm bolts to the sub frame connector cross member, not in the factory location on the side of the transmission. New Moser 9". No vibrations prior to install.
    so i got some weld in SFC, now at 80-90 i have some serious vibration. i dont understand any of this thread (bc im dumb). what am i suppose to do? take it to the pontiac place and let them replace the drive shaft and u joint?

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    There is another trick to measuring your angle now WITHOUT removing the driveshaft let alone jacking up the car.

    Put car in nuetral lay down on the ground roll tire with hand until u joint cap is pointing straight up and down. Now place a 5/8 OR 11/16 DEEP socket across face of u joint cap. MAKE sure it's sitting flush on cap NOT on retainer clip.
    Now place guage across the face of the socket.
    This is how we measure at the track and do adjustments in the stagging lanes. I've found over the years that 3-3.5 works great on 70% of cars and 4 or more degrees just wastes u joints regaurdless of suspension type.
    Thats my 2 cents take it or leave it......
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sobaka79 View Post
    so i got some weld in SFC, now at 80-90 i have some serious vibration. i dont understand any of this thread (bc im dumb). what am i suppose to do? take it to the pontiac place and let them replace the drive shaft and u joint?
    the pontiac place!! i went to the chevy place to get my stock lca bushings (since then replaced with boxed units)replaced and they said no way jose' the car was too modified. they also said they would not do the rack or the rear end work again....i have a torque arm to replace the factory bent one and blown bushing, rear shocks and subframes. those 3 things on the suspension voided my warranty. damn now i have to get a 9 inch. good luck on the drive shaft /ujoint but they will prolly tell you to get bent

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    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Member Z ROADSTER's Avatar
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    Also if you lower your car more than 1" you should also correct the pinion angle or is that bogus information ? Just checking .

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    That guy thearborbarber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z ROADSTER View Post
    Also if you lower your car more than 1" you should also correct the pinion angle or is that bogus information ? Just checking .
    You should check pinion angle when ever you change the geometry. It might not be enough to be off but definitely double check.

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    helped me out alot thanks


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