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road racing set up

This is a discussion on road racing set up within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I have about 1-2k to spend on suspension. I want to set up the suspension for road racing and was ...

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    road racing set up

    I have about 1-2k to spend on suspension. I want to set up the suspension for road racing and was wondering what you guys would suggest, like what parts to get for a road racing set up. I am planning on getting slp bilstein shocks with vogtland springs. I know I want UMI suspension stuff on my car. Does UMI offer any deals for buying a lot of suspension parts at once?

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    Member supaxero's Avatar
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    metallic pewter
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    I got a bilstein package from classic industries and they come with eibach springs. The kit is made for firebirds and is < $1000

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Umi, Global West, and Hotchkis.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    Umi, Global West, and Hotchkis.
    How do they compare? Like quality and weight savings wise how is UMI vs Global West vs Hotchkis?

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    Junior Member phoenixXIV's Avatar
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    I know strano performance does a bunch of UMI package deals.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    This is a list of what I have bought and am looking at buying:

    SLP Bilstein Shocks and Struts
    Vogtland Springs
    UMI RR K-member #2321
    UMI Lower Front A-Arms with roto joints #2304
    UMI Adjustable Upper Front A-Arms #2310
    UMI 3 Point Subframe Connectors #2004
    UMI Double Adjustable Panhard Bar with roto joints #2038
    UMI Lower Control Arms with roto joints #2034
    UMI Panhard Relocation Kit
    UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
    UMI Sway Bar Kit 35mm/22mm #211213 or would it better to get the Strano hollow sway bars?
    UMI Adjustable Torque Arm #2205 (Should the standard adjustable one be fine or should I the one that states that it works with LT set ups?)


    I would like some opinions on this, what do you guys think of this set up for road racing? Also does anyone know the difference between UMI's QA1 rod ends and their roto joints?
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 05-10-2011 at 02:13 PM.

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    I just saw this post, I'm not on here often anymore. Your setup looks good, but I don't know much about the springs. How much do they lower the car? I'm running a Stano setup myself with Koni yellows. I also Autox my car so I'm not as extreme as you with the relocation brackets because it bumps me up a class moving suspension mounting points. I would also recomend a Diff to go along with all the suspension mods, I just put an auborn in and it made a lot of difference on my car.

    Where in VA are you located? I'll be at VIR this July for HPDE2. My friend has a 00 WS6 that he's making an all out Road Racer, Gutted, Caged with a carbed LS6 setup.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    I just saw this post, I'm not on here often anymore. Your setup looks good, but I don't know much about the springs. How much do they lower the car? I'm running a Stano setup myself with Koni yellows. I also Autox my car so I'm not as extreme as you with the relocation brackets because it bumps me up a class moving suspension mounting points. I would also recomend a Diff to go along with all the suspension mods, I just put an auborn in and it made a lot of difference on my car.

    Where in VA are you located? I'll be at VIR this July for HPDE2. My friend has a 00 WS6 that he's making an all out Road Racer, Gutted, Caged with a carbed LS6 setup.
    The springs lower the car by 1.2". I am not extreme yet as I do not have most of this yet. I have never done any Autox before but hopefully when this is all done I can find somewhere around me to do it at. I am waiting to get the suspension done first then I will be buying a new rear end along with driveshaft and a built transmission, then to do some major engine modifications. I live up in Northern Virginia in Fairfax County, around the Burke and Fairfax area.

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    If you are new to this and want to get into road racing and autox, here's what I suggest. Install the springs and shocks, get Sam's hollow front and rear bars, and get the panhard rod bar to center the rearend. Start with that, then get involved with the autocross clubs in DC:

    http://www.wdcr-scca.org/SoloAutocro...6/Default.aspx

    Get a few events under your belt and talk to fellow Fbody drivers for input. I see way to many people modify thier car and it gets put in a class where there is no way they can be competitive. It takes the fun out of it when you are getting stomped at a every event. With the Mods above you'll be classed as E street prepared (ESP) and you'll run with other camaros and mustangs similarly prepared. The most important modification you can do to a car to make it faster is the driver, every one will tell you seat time is the best money spent. Next on the list is good tires.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    If you are new to this and want to get into road racing and autox, here's what I suggest. Install the springs and shocks, get Sam's hollow front and rear bars, and get the panhard rod bar to center the rearend. Start with that, then get involved with the autocross clubs in DC:

    http://www.wdcr-scca.org/SoloAutocro...6/Default.aspx

    Get a few events under your belt and talk to fellow Fbody drivers for input. I see way to many people modify thier car and it gets put in a class where there is no way they can be competitive. It takes the fun out of it when you are getting stomped at a every event. With the Mods above you'll be classed as E street prepared (ESP) and you'll run with other camaros and mustangs similarly prepared. The most important modification you can do to a car to make it faster is the driver, every one will tell you seat time is the best money spent. Next on the list is good tires.
    What type of tires do you use with Autox, as I have no clue. Also I'll probably do some practice events first, so that I atleast know what I am doing.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 05-11-2011 at 06:56 AM.

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    I use Kuhmo XS, I run 285 17's, when I'm not running my Hoosier 315s! Stay with the street tire for a while.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    I use Kuhmo XS, I run 285 17's, when I'm not running my Hoosier 315s! Stay with the street tire for a while.
    Okay cool, I have Nankung NSII all around, they are their super performance all season tire. Rated for 186 mph too not that I will be going that fast.....yet.

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    I think you'll find you run into an areo wall around 150, ask me how I know :-)

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    I think you'll find you run into an areo wall around 150, ask me how I know :-)
    What exactly do you mean aero wall? Like due to the aerodynamics you can't seem to go any faster or what?

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    yep, not without more power, or making the car more streamlined. It's the big nose holes up front the make it different from a vette which is faster.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    yep, not without more power, or making the car more streamlined. It's the big nose holes up front the make it different from a vette which is faster.
    Even though 150 mph is plenty fast I wonder would making it a true ram air set up get rid of that aerodynamic wall or what? In reality I don't think it would but who knows. Also I wonder if replacing my ws6 hood for a raptor or firehawk hood would make it more streamlined or atleast not make it drag as much. And to make sure we are on the same page by streamlined, you mean modifications to the body to reduce drag right? I do have some mods that should make me faster but nothing major as of yet. Although at some point I am putting a blower cam in and then the procharger.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 05-11-2011 at 12:14 PM.

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    Member beach cruiser's Avatar
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    If your intent is to be road racing, remember after everyone of those 130-145 MPH stretchs there's a tight corner, so don't get caught up to much on speed. You gotta grow your balls pretty big to be topping out at 140 or 145 at VIR knowing there are some esses ahead and you can't see them yet.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beach cruiser View Post
    If your intent is to be road racing, remember after everyone of those 130-145 MPH stretchs there's a tight corner, so don't get caught up to much on speed. You gotta grow your balls pretty big to be topping out at 140 or 145 at VIR knowing there are some esses ahead and you can't see them yet.
    No I know you can't go that fast around the curves and even if I could definitely not yet as I have never road raced before.

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    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    Well if your on a budget UMI offers a great adj. panhard and lca kit for the rear made a big difference in my car. The sway bars were a huge improvement as well I went with spohn but the hollow strano setup is better but was too much for me with all the other mods. I would go UMI on front control arms as well as their prices are great and so.is their quality. I don't auto x since my car is a a4 I used Ben springs and AGX shocks. I just wanted better handling on the back road twisties through the state forest to keep up a bit better with the vettes. Also a vette is lighter as well so that is another advantage besides the aerodynamics. While my ya is a fun car with a m6 and smaller cam it would be.ok for.auto x but I hate to.admit my stock suspension dd 09 cobalt SS would eat it.for breakfast in the twisties just needs a bit.more HP. I learned after driving it everyday that the weight made a huge difference in how the handling feels too bad they had to.make it fwd.
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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanJM View Post
    Well if your on a budget UMI offers a great adj. panhard and lca kit for the rear made a big difference in my car. The sway bars were a huge improvement as well I went with spohn but the hollow strano setup is better but was too much for me with all the other mods. I would go UMI on front control arms as well as their prices are great and so.is their quality. I don't auto x since my car is a a4 I used Ben springs and AGX shocks. I just wanted better handling on the back road twisties through the state forest to keep up a bit better with the vettes. Also a vette is lighter as well so that is another advantage besides the aerodynamics. While my ya is a fun car with a m6 and smaller cam it would be.ok for.auto x but I hate to.admit my stock suspension dd 09 cobalt SS would eat it.for breakfast in the twisties just needs a bit.more HP. I learned after driving it everyday that the weight made a huge difference in how the handling feels too bad they had to.make it fwd.
    I am going to go with UMI for the full suspension minus the sway bars, for that I am going with Strano. Trying to decide between roto joints and qa1 rod ends. The car is still a DD so roto joints would probably be better.

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