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Re-doing suspension...

This is a discussion on Re-doing suspension... within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I'm going to replace just about everything within the next month or two and I need to start doing some ...

  1. #1
    BlackHawk T/A
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    Re-doing suspension...

    I'm going to replace just about everything within the next month or two and I need to start doing some research and get all the parts lined up.

    Basically I want SFCs, shocks, springs, LCAs, and adj. panhard bar. But what else can I do at the same time while everything is apart? It is all going to go in at once to save time and money. Bushings?

    I also need to know if this will make my car stop "tracking" and veering to one side when it finds a bump in the road...I feel like I have to hold the wheel tight to stop it from turning on some of the older roads here...I need new tires too though. I also am wanting to get rid of the ugly fender gap above the wheels with the springs.

    So far the list is:

    Shocks - Revalved Bilsteins
    Springs - Eibach Pro-Kit
    SFCs - ?
    LCAs - ?
    Panhard - ?
    STB - ?
    Swaybars - ?
    Torque Arm - ?

    This is my daily driver, with mostly in-town driving and some highway/freeway driving. There is also occasional racing / aggressive driving. This will be the first round of modifications done to the car. Any input would be great.
    Last edited by BlackHawk T/A; 10-10-2005 at 03:45 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member 02z28ls1's Avatar
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    navy blue
    2002 Z-28 Camaro M6

    Is everything stock right now?Sounds like the alignment could use some positive camber(or less negative) for better strait ahead stability.More negative camber however give a car better cornering ability so it's a trade -off-after you get done changing ride height you will want to get the alignment done.Try to find an experienced guy who knows what he's doing and discuss these things with him and you will be a lot happier with the results.

  3. #3
    Resident F1 Guru TGrits10's Avatar
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    98 Z

    Don't forget swaybars.

    Bushings will tighten everything up some, but you may not notice and it's so much work to replace them...if I could go back, I'd have left the bushings alone and saved the money I had to pay someone to put swap them with a special tool.

    SFC's just get the ones that triangulate, can't go wrong otherwise.

    If you don't think you'll want to do any tweaking, bilsteins are a good choice for shocks.

    As for the tramlining (that's what it's called when the road steers the car), like said above it's caused by alignment issues, not shitty suspension. Too much negative camber or toe out is usually to blame, but screwy tire wear can also do it.

  4. #4
    BlackHawk T/A
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    Ahh yeah I forgot about the swaybars. I'll need recommendations on those too...

    The car will definetely be aligned when this is all done.

    So to add:

    STB
    Swaybar

  5. #5
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    triple-black
    2000 CamaroSS convertible

    STB... save the $... put it elsewhere before you get there.
    with the shocks and springs you are going to do, coupled with a good choice of swaybar, you'll have a great setup... so it gradually... don't just throw $ at it... know what you want and go slowly.
    I would definitely get a good alignment to get rid of your issues.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

  6. #6
    BlackHawk T/A
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    Well if you think about it I would rather not have to take everything apart multiple times and thus, I would rather have several things done at a time. Same reason why you should change your plugs/wires/fuel filter/whatever else when you do a header install. It just simplifies things.

    I'm still doing research on the SFCs and the Sway Bar...I like the looks of that UMI SFC and the Strano Sway Bars so far.

  7. #7
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    07 TBSS, 07 GSXR1000

    Go with Kenny Brown SFC's. They tie the car together in more points and look better.

  8. #8
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
    Well if you think about it I would rather not have to take everything apart multiple times and thus, I would rather have several things done at a time. Same reason why you should change your plugs/wires/fuel filter/whatever else when you do a header install. It just simplifies things.

    I'm still doing research on the SFCs and the Sway Bar...I like the looks of that UMI SFC and the Strano Sway Bars so far.
    true, but apart the springs + shocks + alignment being done @ same time, all other items are straight-fwd, just a few bolts to change...

  9. #9
    BlackHawk T/A
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    True...I think ill wait on the STB and the TQ Arm.

    But I definetely want the shocks/springs/sway bar/SFCs and LCAs done, along with the panhard to re-center the rear.

  10. #10
    Member Fastcar's Avatar
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    2000 TransAm

    Baer (the brake company) makes anti-bump-steer tie rod ends for our cars which help mitigate the problem that occurs when you hit a pothole & the car pulls to 1 side....

  11. #11
    sonnyred
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    I'm really undecided on sfc as to wether i shuold use bolt on or weld.I've heard some real horror stories welds the were done improperly.Any know a good garage in southern florida?

  12. #12
    Old Pro Senator's Avatar
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    2002 TA

    Both my cars really tended to track left on hard accel from a standing start without STB's. I recommend STB on even a stock vehicle.

    You won't need the torque arm unless you get wheel hop after you lower the car. If you have wheel hop after the mods you are going with, the first step is to use LCA lowering brackets, and if the problem still persists, the torque arm is the final (spelled E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E) solution. I used a Global West unit, but it is overkill - I happened to get a really good deal on a slightly damaged used one that I re-conditioned. It solved my wheel hop problem, though.

    As far as swaybars are concerned, they are very easy to install - same with bushings. Simple straightforward install.

    Be sure you won't have an interference issue with your eventual exhaust system before you go with the diamond style SFC. I had to use regular SFCs due to the headers and exhaust systems on both my rides. Used Grotyohanns on the first one and Jet-Hot/Hookers on the new one with the ProDyno exhaust system. The BMR weld-in SFCs tightened things up well and still work after 88k miles combined on the two cars.

    Regards,
    Darden
    Last edited by Senator; 12-11-2005 at 01:03 PM.

  13. #13
    delinquent543
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    wait, so the best solution to tramlining is a simple tire allignment?

  14. #14
    Member Fastcar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delinquent543
    wait, so the best solution to tramlining is a simple tire allignment?
    Not always. Sometimes it has to do with the brand of tires you have too. Some tires tramline worse than others. Of course, having the front end properly aligned isn't going to hurt anything, will maximize your tire life (along with rotation and proper balance/air pressures/etc.), and will reduce out-of-alignment pull. Tramlining or improper tracking/handling can also be caused by worn suspension parts. I had what seemed like a tramlining issue that the dealer traced to a worn out inner tie rod end. He replaced it, did a wheel alignment and everything's back to normal now.

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