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09-19-2010, 03:42 PM #1
Is it possible to install F41 Rack on FE2
My R&P is leaking- was just a little seap, now it's dumped since its sat in the garage for the past 6 weeks while I wait for the MWC rear to get here. Is it possible to change out the FE2 setup for the F41? What all would need to be changed?
Last edited by bberretta; 10-07-2010 at 08:07 PM.
2000 Pontiac Firehawk #0041 of 742
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09-19-2010, 07:19 PM #2
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silver- 2000 formula
1 is the V6 rack......right?
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09-19-2010, 07:29 PM #3
Nope. It has to do with the suspension package. Mine didn't come with the F41 suspension package. I'm not really sure what all was involved in the F41 suspension package, but I'm assuming that it was a quicker ratio r&p, shocks and struts, and sway bars. Since you can upgrade everything else, I was wondering if you could "upgrade" the rack and pinion with the F41.
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09-22-2010, 05:47 PM #4
Found the answer to my own question:
FE2 is the quicker ratio and costs about $100 more to replace. Also the angle is better for clearing LT headers.
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09-22-2010, 06:57 PM #5
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09-22-2010, 09:54 PM #6
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silver- 2000 formula
i replaced my rack with a GM reman........it shows as for either F41 or FE2
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09-23-2010, 03:15 AM #7
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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09-23-2010, 06:13 AM #8
FE2 suspension package is supposedly an upgrade from the F41 so installing the F41 would be a downgrade. Plus, the change in the angle of the steering shaft will cause problems with LT headers. In fact, I would think if you had a F41 and tried installing LTs you'd run into clearance issues (which might explain why some people have experienced clearance problems while others haven't during LT installations of the same make headers.)
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09-23-2010, 10:03 AM #9
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Navy Blue- ls1 trans am
Thanks this was very helpful. I am in the process of installing LT and have a leaking R&P. I am considering changing it out because I have the motor mount out and can get the bolt under the motor out. Would you guys suggest changing the tie rods out or is that not necessary? The unit is more for the FE2 so I am considering just holding off to save up if I have to repalce more parts. With the bolt do you just flip it and put the nut on the top side for easy access next time? (sorry don't mean to thread jack)
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09-23-2010, 11:13 AM #10
No apologies needed-
I'm curious if swapping the FE2 will help people out as well, so let us know what you find out. I think it was Spaz who had a thread on swapping out his R&P and he said that he just flipped the bolt and nut around so he could get to them. And yes, change out the tie rods with the R&P. If you pull everything out as a single unit, you can put the new tie rods on the new unit and match up the size to the old one. That way you're not way off and can get to the alignment shop without driving sideways down the road.
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09-24-2010, 11:35 AM #11
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i cut the bolt under the alt to get it out......PITA!!!!!.......of course flipped the new 1s
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09-24-2010, 11:59 AM #12
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09-24-2010, 02:54 PM #13
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Light Pewter Metallic- 2K Camaro Z28
Looks like you tore a new ass for that R&P assembly. What did you do? Ran over a mini boulder?
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09-24-2010, 04:27 PM #14
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silver- 2000 formula
it just needs a new bellow
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09-25-2010, 06:12 AM #15
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09-25-2010, 11:49 AM #16
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09-28-2010, 05:42 AM #17
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09-28-2010, 05:44 AM #18
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09-28-2010, 02:06 PM #19
fuck that drivers side bolt. when I did m k mbr I cleaned the rack up new, flushed the fluid and put new o rings so I won't have to mess with it for a long time HOPEFULLY!
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10-07-2010, 08:16 PM #20
Finally got around to swapping the R&P out today. O'Reily's had it for me in less than 24hrs.
I ended up cutting the head off the bolt- used a sawzall with a 9" metal blade to reach it. I see what you guys mean by it being a major PITA. What made it so frustrating was it was RIGHT THERE! I could see it, get a good grip on it, there just wasn't enough space to remove it. Ended up using one of the bolts from the LCA that I had left over when I installed the sub-frame connectors. Cut it down to length and installed it upside down (or actually right side up since that's how they should have installed it from the factory!) I have to say, that was one of the easier jobs I've had to do on this car!
Thanks everyone for the help and pointers!
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