Is it possible to install F41 Rack on FE2

**bberretta** · 09-19-2010, 03:42 PM

My R&P is leaking- was just a little seap, now it's dumped since its sat in the garage for the past 6 weeks while I wait for the MWC rear to get here. Is it possible to change out the FE2 setup for the F41? What all would need to be changed?

**sjsingle1** · 09-19-2010, 07:19 PM

1 is the V6 rack......right?

**bberretta** · 09-19-2010, 07:29 PM

Nope. It has to do with the suspension package. Mine didn't come with the F41 suspension package. I'm not really sure what all was involved in the F41 suspension package, but I'm assuming that it was a quicker ratio r&p, shocks and struts, and sway bars. Since you can upgrade everything else, I was wondering if you could "upgrade" the rack and pinion with the F41.

**bberretta** · 09-22-2010, 05:47 PM

Found the answer to my own question:

FE2 is the quicker ratio and costs about $100 more to replace. Also the angle is better for clearing LT headers.

**Wesman** · 09-22-2010, 06:57 PM

Originally Posted by bberretta

Found the answer to my own question:

FE2 is the quicker ratio and costs about $100 more to replace. Also the angle is better for clearing LT headers.

So no need to try and swap to the F41 then??

**sjsingle1** · 09-22-2010, 09:54 PM

i replaced my rack with a GM reman........it shows as for either F41 or FE2

**Smittro** · 09-23-2010, 03:15 AM

Originally Posted by sjsingle1

1 is the V6 rack......right?

Standard (fbody) v6 models have a 16:1 turning ratio, y87 (Camaro) 3800 cars are 14:1..

V6 birds have a similar package tho I don't remember the RPO's..

**bberretta** · 09-23-2010, 06:13 AM

FE2 suspension package is supposedly an upgrade from the F41 so installing the F41 would be a downgrade. Plus, the change in the angle of the steering shaft will cause problems with LT headers. In fact, I would think if you had a F41 and tried installing LTs you'd run into clearance issues (which might explain why some people have experienced clearance problems while others haven't during LT installations of the same make headers.)

**JehalinTA** · 09-23-2010, 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by bberretta

FE2 suspension package is supposedly an upgrade from the F41 so installing the F41 would be a downgrade. Plus, the change in the angle of the steering shaft will cause problems with LT headers. In fact, I would think if you had a F41 and tried installing LTs you'd run into clearance issues (which might explain why some people have experienced clearance problems while others haven't during LT installations of the same make headers.)

Thanks this was very helpful. I am in the process of installing LT and have a leaking R&P. I am considering changing it out because I have the motor mount out and can get the bolt under the motor out. Would you guys suggest changing the tie rods out or is that not necessary? The unit is more for the FE2 so I am considering just holding off to save up if I have to repalce more parts. With the bolt do you just flip it and put the nut on the top side for easy access next time? (sorry don't mean to thread jack)

**bberretta** · 09-23-2010, 11:13 AM

No apologies needed-
I'm curious if swapping the FE2 will help people out as well, so let us know what you find out. I think it was Spaz who had a thread on swapping out his R&P and he said that he just flipped the bolt and nut around so he could get to them. And yes, change out the tie rods with the R&P. If you pull everything out as a single unit, you can put the new tie rods on the new unit and match up the size to the old one. That way you're not way off and can get to the alignment shop without driving sideways down the road.

**sjsingle1** · 09-24-2010, 11:35 AM

i cut the bolt under the alt to get it out......PITA!!!!!.......of course flipped the new 1s

**blackcar** · 09-24-2010, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by bberretta

My R&P is leaking- was just a little seap, now it's dumped since its sat in the garage for the past 6 weeks while I wait for the MWC rear to get hear. Is it possible to change out the FE2 setup for the F41? What all would need to be changed?

Mine is leaking to. Can you help me figure it out?

Here is a pic to help

**bene** · 09-24-2010, 02:54 PM

Looks like you tore a new ass for that R&P assembly. What did you do? Ran over a mini boulder?

**sjsingle1** · 09-24-2010, 04:27 PM

it just needs a new bellow

**Smittro** · 09-25-2010, 06:12 AM

Originally Posted by blackcar

Mine is leaking to. Can you help me figure it out?

Here is a pic to help

Ductape fix ya right up...WoW

**blackcar** · 09-25-2010, 11:49 AM

Originally Posted by bene

Looks like you tore a new ass for that R&P assembly. What did you do? Ran over a mini boulder?

Went over a stump. Well not really "over". More "into" and "on".

**Spaz** · 09-28-2010, 05:42 AM

Originally Posted by bberretta

Found the answer to my own question:

FE2 is the quicker ratio and costs about $100 more to replace. Also the angle is better for clearing LT headers.

yeah... i have the fe2 (my car came with it) and when i ordered mine they sent me the wrong one... the angle on the one they sent me would have been a 1/2" in to my header... the fe2 gives a small amount of clearence...

**Spaz** · 09-28-2010, 05:44 AM

Originally Posted by bberretta

No apologies needed-
I'm curious if swapping the FE2 will help people out as well, so let us know what you find out. I think it was Spaz who had a thread on swapping out his R&P and he said that he just flipped the bolt and nut around so he could get to them. And yes, change out the tie rods with the R&P. If you pull everything out as a single unit, you can put the new tie rods on the new unit and match up the size to the old one. That way you're not way off and can get to the alignment shop without driving sideways down the road.

cut that bolt in half... what a pita it was too... i put a new one in with two nuts on it just to be safe...

**xmarkx** · 09-28-2010, 02:06 PM

fuck that drivers side bolt. when I did m k mbr I cleaned the rack up new, flushed the fluid and put new o rings so I won't have to mess with it for a long time HOPEFULLY!

**bberretta** · 10-07-2010, 08:16 PM

Finally got around to swapping the R&P out today. O'Reily's had it for me in less than 24hrs.

I ended up cutting the head off the bolt- used a sawzall with a 9" metal blade to reach it. I see what you guys mean by it being a major PITA. What made it so frustrating was it was RIGHT THERE! I could see it, get a good grip on it, there just wasn't enough space to remove it. Ended up using one of the bolts from the LCA that I had left over when I installed the sub-frame connectors. Cut it down to length and installed it upside down (or actually right side up since that's how they should have installed it from the factory!) I have to say, that was one of the easier jobs I've had to do on this car!

Thanks everyone for the help and pointers!