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Noisy SLP SFCs?

This is a discussion on Noisy SLP SFCs? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I just installed SLP bolt-on SFCs on my '01 SS, and now I've got a pretty nasty metallic pop that ...

  1. #1
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    Red
    2001 Camaro SS

    Noisy SLP SFCs?

    I just installed SLP bolt-on SFCs on my '01 SS, and now I've got a pretty nasty metallic pop that seems to be coming from the rocker panel area only on severe bumps. Happens on both sides. I've cranked the bolts down as tight as possible by hand (first just wrench, then breaker bar), and I'm about ready to hit them with my 1/2-inch impact... Before I yank them back off, is there something obvious I'm missing? How tight does the rear control arm bolt need to be? Thanks...

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    RED, BLACK
    2001 WS6, 1998 TA

    It kinda sounds like a loose bolt. The rear control arms are torqued pretty tight. I don't have my service manual with me right now. But 90lbft comes to mind but I need to double check because it may be more then that.

  3. #3
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    Red
    2001 Camaro SS

    Thanks... I wrenched them down again, and it seems to have helped. Either that or I've finally figured out where all the potholes are...

    This weekend is oil change time, so I'll hit 'em with the torque wrench when I have it up in the air.

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    RED, BLACK
    2001 WS6, 1998 TA

    No problem. I need to do an oil change on mine also. So I can start driving it alittle this summer.

  5. #5
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Pewter
    02SS6spd VERT!

    it is SO important to make sure when you tighten the bolts on the sfc's, that you make sure the suspension is loaded(weight of car sitting on wheels or atleast rear end). if you don't you're just wasting your time. get a set of jack stands under the rear end and take the rear wheels off. let the car sit on the jack stands but make sure they're under the rear end. go ahead and tighten them to 72 ft/lbs of torque. you'll be set

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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    RED, BLACK
    2001 WS6, 1998 TA

    Quote Originally Posted by 7camaro7 View Post
    it is SO important to make sure when you tighten the bolts on the sfc's, that you make sure the suspension is loaded(weight of car sitting on wheels or atleast rear end). if you don't you're just wasting your time. get a set of jack stands under the rear end and take the rear wheels off. let the car sit on the jack stands but make sure they're under the rear end. go ahead and tighten them to 72 ft/lbs of torque. you'll be set
    I agree.

  7. #7
    Rice Hungry GottaHaveLS1's Avatar
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    1999 Trans Am M6

    I have weld in BMR Tubular SFC (which my guy only welded the front and bolted in the back!!! and of course i can never reach him..) they made popping sounds for a while and I thought it was because the rear of each SFC is only bolted in. I haven't driven my car since last august, but towards the end of the summer, the popping sound stopped and i did nothing. I would just let it go, if torquing them down doesnt work.
    1999 Trans Am M6
    SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD, !AIR, !EGR, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17

    Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT

  8. #8
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    2001 Camaro SS

    Thanks for the help everyone... the popping is gone after torquing the rears again. It's much more solid overall as well. Night and day difference.

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