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  1. #1
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Noises with an aftermarket TQ arm.

    What noises are expected to be heard with an aftermarket TQ arm? I have a UMI adjustable TQ arm.

    I just put in my TQ arm and I have some clunks. I think it's my magnaflow exhaust hitting the drag bar as it goes over it, I think I'll need to get under there and see if I can wrap something soft around it or something. Maybe some F4 tape, which is soft and stretchy. Is something like this expected? I think that's where the noise is coming from, but why didn't it ever make noise before with the stock TQ arm? That's what blows my mind. It'll clunk over any medium size dip or crack in the road.

    Also, I want to set the pinion angle to -2 degrees. Is that the best for a street driven car that needs to have traction every now and then?

    Should I be feeling any vibration at all? The driveshaft loop sits against the Y-pipe and I have a small amount of vibration, none of my passengers notice it, just me, so it is subtle, but I know it wasn't there before. So I was thinking of just cutting off the driveshaft loop and getting rid of it. I don't need it on a street car, but that's jmo. I don't want to redo the exhaust to make it fit. This TQ arm from UMI was designed for the Kooks Y-pipe, so that's the issue.

    Also, I was gonna go to advance or autozone to find a pinion angle tool, do they have one or do i gotta buy online? When I set the pinion angle, is ok that I have two 2 inch boards under the rear tires, cuz that changes the weight a tad right? And I should have someone sit in the car too?
    Last edited by allbaugh_04; 07-08-2011 at 08:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
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    http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...le-help-please
    this has a lot of good info
    don't know about auto parts stores, but hardware stores should have an angle finder:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_198122-1099-...0051&langId=-1

  3. #3
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Thanks Scott. Couldn't find one at the auto parts store. Will try lowe's, home depot, or ace hardware.

  4. #4
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    What torque arm and mount did you go with -- full length, tunnel mount?

  5. #5
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Navy Blue, Dark Cherry
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    What torque arm and mount did you go with -- full length, tunnel mount?

    he's got a UMI crossbrace mount with DSL model 2201 in black

  6. #6
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    The 2201 is a tunnel mounted torque arm, so it's expected to be a little more noisy than a full-length torque arm. You might want to check to make sure the torque arm isn't rubbing against the underside of the car anywhere in the tunnel. A lot of them come real close to hitting and the tunnel needs to be "massaged" to create some extra clearance.

  7. #7
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    I'll check that out Thursday. Bought me a magnetic degree tool. So we'll see then.

  8. #8
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Just like 35th said -- tunnel mounts are noisier than a full length set up. I took a grinder to the very front corner of the top bracket on the rear and it still hit in the tunnel. You have to really tighten the two (2) bolts that mount the arm to the tunnel brace. The shoulder on the bolts is smaller than the hole by just a bit and they can slap around if not good and tight.

  9. #9
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Just like 35th said -- tunnel mounts are noisier than a full length set up. I took a grinder to the very front corner of the top bracket on the rear and it still hit in the tunnel. You have to really tighten the two (2) bolts that mount the arm to the tunnel brace. The shoulder on the bolts is smaller than the hole by just a bit and they can slap around if not good and tight.
    so yours hit the tunnel over/just in front of the rearend?
    '98 NBM T/A: TSP Headers, ORY, Flowmaster Exhaust, Freemods, Drilled/Slotted rotors, Poly mounts and Bushings, Swaybars, Upgraded T56, B&M Shifter, LED DRL/Turnsignals, MTI Lid, EGR Delete, MAF De-Screened, Polished TB, LS6 Intake, PCV Mod W/ catch can, UMI Torque Arm & 3-Point SFC.

  10. #10
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    I never heard it hit, but it did dimple the tunnel even after I clearanced it. Here's a pic showing the corner that I ground off:


  11. #11
    LSX whore allbaugh_04's Avatar
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    Interesting, thx I will take a look.

  12. #12
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    I also have a tunnel mount adjustable TA. I dimpled the tunnel a bit as well. Still hear clunking during gear shifts but that's normal.

    Start at -2 degrees and adjust as need to eliminate wheel hop. Mine is set at a tad over -2.

    I'd leave the DSL (you never know when somethings gonna break) and massage the exhaust some. I had to do that myself as it was banging on the left side of the TD's. A bit of heat and some work with a largish crow bar (tankers bar for those in the know - a souvenier of my time in the Army) got things situated.
    Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 07-13-2011 at 08:27 PM.
    67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...

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    Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!

  13. #13
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Agree with Jim. You can never be too safe. Leave the DS loop on.

  14. #14
    Member TransAmX2's Avatar
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    interesting, thanks for the pix Jeff, with my suspension loaded mine doesn't hit, but that doesn't mean it wont hit going over bumps, I'll keep an eye on that area. I finally finished installing my TA and 3point SFC and got all the bolts tight and pinion angle set last night. Taking it easy for now ('till im sure it's all good) but it does feel much more solid, I'll try a few launches on my way home tonight and see how it feels there.

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