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next purchase for suspension

This is a discussion on next purchase for suspension within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I have the UMI 3 point SFC and would like to take the next step for a suspension mod in ...

  1. #1
    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    next purchase for suspension

    I have the UMI 3 point SFC and would like to take the next step for a suspension mod in the 100-200 range. I have no intention to lower the car and it will be a daily driver/weekend toy. I am thinking of either new lower control arms, new panhard bar, torque arm bracket or LCA relocation brackets.

    Now with my plans to not lower the car are the LCA relocation brackets worth the time and money. How will they affect the handling of the car.

    Oh and the car is a 01 6sp Z28 hardtop. Thanks for any advice on the next mod to buy.

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    I went with the standard UMI LCA's and panhard bar -- no spherical rod ends or adjustment. Like you, our car is staying at the stock ride height. The factory pieces are pretty flimsy compared to the UMI stuff. It shoud just about be in your price range too.

    The relocation brackets lower the back mounting point of your LCA's and change your car's instant center. They are really designed for added traction at launch and provide no other handling benefits. I had a brand new set from UMI, but never installed them on the car as I upgraded to a Moser 12 bolt that included welded relocation brackets.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Lower control arms

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    thanks for the info. Looks like I will get the lower control arms and install them at the same time I put the SFC on.

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    Save up a liitle more and get new shocks. They will have a much bigger effect on the overall handling of the car than lca's panhard bar or lca relocation brackets, and make it a lot more fun to drive, especially on a daily driver. Since you're not lowering, Bilstien's would be a good match.

    Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tremiles View Post
    Save up a liitle more and get new shocks. They will have a much bigger effect on the overall handling of the car than lca's panhard bar or lca relocation brackets, and make it a lot more fun to drive, especially on a daily driver. Since you're not lowering, Bilstien's would be a good match.

    Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk
    I will have to add that to my list of future mods. Is there a particular model of Bilstiens I should look for?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I wish I would have installed my suspension components separately to see the benefits each one really gave me.

    However, after getting my SFC's, TA, and lower control arms with relocation brackets on the 9" installed...my car was a totally different animal with traction and keeping straight under hard acceleration and shifts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by werewolf View Post
    I will have to add that to my list of future mods. Is there a particular model of Bilstiens I should look for?
    The non-SLP Bilstien shocks are valved for stock ride height cars, the SLP Bilstien shocks are valved for SLP's matching spring package which is a slight drop. I'd get whichever were cheaper. Many folks believe Bilstien's are the best non-adjustable shock that's available for 4th gens.

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    Purpose of lower control arms?
    LS6 intake, Pacesetters, TSP rumbler !EGR, !AIR, 295/35 BFG KDW II's, UMI Adj LCAs. Tick Master Cylinder, LS7 Clutch and flywheel, Pro 5.0, Lous short stick, Frost Tune.

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    The stock LCA's are stamped steel and can flex, causing wheelhop. Also with bigger wheels and tires, adjustable LCA's can center the wheels in the wheel wells.

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    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    the reason I was going LCA is the fact that my car squirms when I punch it coming away from a slow roll. I feel that is from the rear suspension flexing as it transfers the power to the ground. My goals are to get the suspension sorted out to put the power down and then up the horsepower from there. My current plan is getting the LCA then panhard bar followed by either torque arm relocation bracket or other style of torque arm. I need to research the torque arm designs first as I am willing to sacrifice a bit at the 1/4 mile for good autocross/road coarse handling. I don't figure to have a full on race car just a car I can go and have a blast with and not make a complete fool of myself on the track doing it. (at least not have the car be the cause of said foolishness.)

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    a full length torque arm is the best approach for street use. Get one that relocates the front mount off the tailshaft of the transmission.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    a full length torque arm is the best approach for street use. Get one that relocates the front mount off the tailshaft of the transmission.
    That is the route I was planning but wanted to talk to those who have gone before me to make sure I was on the right path. However it will be a bit longer till I get the cash to do that step.

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    35th nailed it... the tunnel mount is really better suited for track use. Go with a long arm adjustable and get the mount off the transmission tailstock.

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    Thanks Jeff. I like nailing things

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Thanks Jeff. I like nailing things

    I sort of suspected that might be the case.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    a full length torque arm is the best approach for street use. Get one that relocates the front mount off the tailshaft of the transmission.
    Isn't that well out of the 100-200 range though?

    Relocation UMI TA runs about 350-400 IIRC.


    I'd go the LCA's or panhard with relocation brackets

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    Isn't that well out of the 100-200 range though?

    Relocation UMI TA runs about 350-400 IIRC.


    I'd go the LCA's or panhard with relocation brackets
    Yes. But in post 11 he mentions getting a torque arm AFTER the other things

  19. #19
    Member werewolf's Avatar
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    hey it is my post I can post jack it if I want to right? LOL

    again thanks to all for the info.

  20. #20
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Yes. But in post 11 he mentions getting a torque arm AFTER the other things
    Missed that, lol. At least the op's got the prices!


    Doesn't the rear end you have/may want change which torque arm you can get?

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