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Need some tips on DIY R&R.

This is a discussion on Need some tips on DIY R&R. within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; So, the day before I was scheduled to take my car in for maintenance, I noticed the rattling that prompted ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Need some tips on DIY R&R.

    So, the day before I was scheduled to take my car in for maintenance, I noticed the rattling that prompted the other thread about the LS3.

    However, the car was already due for some other work.

    I need to replace my bump stops and my LCAs.

    I'm wondering: with the LCAs, is there anything I need to consider when removing or installing them? Does the suspension need to be loaded? Unloaded? Any other tips? They look like a simple swap: just take the old ones out with a wrench and put the new ones in, but I've learned not to make assumptions when it comes to working on cars.

    In case it matters, I have bolt-in SFCs on the car.

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    Only do one side at a time. The rear will move a bit, but you can use a screwdriver or prybar to move things back into place to get the bolts through the holes. Make sure the car is supported by the body and not under the rear axle when you do this. You will need a floor jack under the axle though to hold it in place and to make minor adjustments. Absent rusted bolts that are seized up in the stock bushings... it is a simple swap.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Are they stock or aftermarket, adjustable?


    If adjustable use the stock LCA to get as close to the length needed as possible. Go bolt hole to bolt hole. I took a 6" long bolt in the same size as the LCA hardware to line it up.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    The ones coming off are rod-end, adjustable. The ones going on will be UMI poly-roto adjustable. I was thinking I would just check the length before removing the currently installed ones, make the adjustments to the new ones and then R&R.

    Based on what you guys are saying, I'm thinking I can use my jack-stands under the body, and then put the jack under the diff.

    When you say do one side at a time, does that mean to lift only one side of the car at a time, or is it okay to lift both sides, but to leave one side as is until the other side is torqued down?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Good to lift both sides, just remove only one LCA at a time.
    pajeff02 likes this.

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    Once you get both sides installed, snug but do not tighten the bolts all the way. Put your stands back under the axle to load the suspension to a level height then do your final torque to 87 lb ft. If you torque the bolts down while the suspension is unloaded you may get some binding.
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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    One thing to keep in mind is that the bolt holes in the body are smaller than the bolt holes in the LCAs. I took my LCAs off and drilled the bolt holes in the body out. Installed bigger bolts. That took a lot of noise and slap out of the rear end. It used to clack going over speed bumps and steel gate tracks set in parking lots, etc, but not any more. I used a stepped drill bit and a flexible tip extension to do mine. There is no room to get a drill in there. Maybe a right angle drill, but the flex extension did the trick nicely.

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    I thought the torque on the suspension bolts was 75 lb.ft.?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I thought the torque on the suspension bolts was 75 lb.ft.?
    That's what mine was for my UMI. Then again that was 3-4 yrs ago, maybe updated tq specs?

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Thanks, guys. As much as I've learned in school and with research, I still feel like a newb. :P

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I thought the torque on the suspension bolts was 75 lb.ft.?
    If I remember correctly, Jeff is correct. When I installed my SFCs, the torque spec given by UMI was 75 ft.lbs. for the front end of the bolt. Could it be that the rear end has a different torque spec?

    Keith, I like your idea about using a bigger bolt.

    Does anyone know why the LCAs are designed with a bigger hole?
    Last edited by Naaman; 11-20-2014 at 09:50 PM.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

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    So it's easier to get them to line up to bolt in. Almost everything you buy that uses bolt holes to bolt to something else is like that. It allows for bolt hole spacing tolerance deviation also.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Oh, okay. I was imagining significantly bigger holes, but it sounds like they are just "bigger enough" by what you're saying.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    That's just a guess, but I'm assuming your assumption is correct as far as the bolt hole size in comparison.

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    The 87 lb ft torque spec is what the factory service manual shows for the LCAs. If the manufacturer shows something different (different bushing materials) definitely go with that.

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