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lower control arms

This is a discussion on lower control arms within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I was looking at getting some lower control arms, do they help get the power to the ground and eliminate ...

  1. #1
    Member 346ci's Avatar
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    lower control arms

    I was looking at getting some lower control arms, do they help get the power to the ground and eliminate wheel hop? Just want to hear anybodys thoughts or results on having aftermarket lower control arms.

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    Just switching from the stock to aftermarket lower control arms you might see some difference. To see the most traction improvement get a set of relocation brackets with new control arms, so you can set the lower control arm angle to slightly negative. This well help create anti-squat and well greatly help the traction. Also a new torque arm will help too.
    I personally have Spohn rod-end mid mount torque arm, lower control arms, relocation brackets, and panhard rod. With my mods and BFG G-force KDWs I can hook easier then a friends stock z-28.
    The wheel hop can come from the suspension. First all the factory parts are stamped steel and once to get them out of the car well see how flimsy they are. Also stock rubber bushings are great for killing road noise and making a cushier ride, but are know to bind under load and not allow the suspension to move freely. Poly is better then the stock rubber, but rodends are the best for suspension traction, hence why they use them on race cars and aircraft. Now be warned rodends make your road noise louder and bumps feel more intense, this is because you don’t have rubber bushings soaking up some of the energy.
    Last edited by vetteemt; 02-07-2008 at 09:28 AM.
    1998 Camaro SS Hard Coupe Bright Red #1593
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    Member 346ci's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks that was a good explanation. How would I adjust the control arms, turn some bolts?

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    Member CJREX's Avatar
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    Gone:2001 Camaro SS #4846

    Depends on which ones you get.

    Cheapest ones are non-adjustable and simply replace the factory stamped steel piece.

    The adjustable ones have a Heim joint on one end that will allow you to center the rear tires in the wheelwell opening.

    Here's a pic of the adjustable ones



    To adjust, loosen the locknut, thread the joint in or out to the desired length, tighten locknut.

    If you are unsure of what you want or really need, ask Sam Strano on this site. He is the suspension guru.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    +1 Sam is a great asset to our community and he is very informative in helping you get your goals. With that said my experience with my UMI single adjustable LCAs has been fairly good. I can not give an exact measurement of how much traction I gained since the cam swap was done before I could try the car out on the track. However, I have noticed that the wheelhop that I experience on the street is reduced and it does seem to have a slight bit more traction.

    As far as road noise I have not really noticed anything at all once I made sure that everything was centered and tightened the locknut down really tight so that the joint would not bind. The road noise could just be covered up by my exhaust... but it does not matter if I don't notice

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    Sam Strano is a great source of info. I have double adjustable ie both ends are rodends or heim joints and the road noise did pick up. I personally don't care and don't hear it over my exhaust.

  7. #7
    Member 346ci's Avatar
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    Alright I'll talk to Strano sometime since he seems to be the guy to go to

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    white
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    did u notice any 1/4 mile improvement

  9. #9
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    If you have traction issues on your 1/4 run then yes you well see improvements. Personally I saw the biggest chance in 60 ft times which equaled better ets.

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