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which LCA relocation bracket bolt hole???

This is a discussion on which LCA relocation bracket bolt hole??? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; ok i bought some J&M LCA relocation brackets. but there was no instructions... i got them on and everything. there ...

  1. #1
    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    which LCA relocation bracket bolt hole???

    ok i bought some J&M LCA relocation brackets. but there was no instructions... i got them on and everything. there is two hole for the LCA's to go through i put them on the upper of the two. does it matter which one??
    M6, Lid, Ported and Polished Throttle Body (By Me!), LT, Custom Catted Y, Electric Cutout, PHB, LCA13.21@108 with a 2.3 60'

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    don't hate MysticBowtie's Avatar
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    "bone stock....."
    1994 Camaro Z28

    If you have lowered your car, use the holes on the bottom, otherwise stay up top.

    I just copied this from spohn performance's website for a better understanding:

    "Repositions your instant center by lowering your control arm angle for increased traction and anti-squat. Lowers rear of control arm up to 3". This product is a must for lowered vehicles to correct your suspension geometry. Lowering your vehicle alters the LCA angle putting the rear of the LCA higher than the front of the LCA, this causes massive wheel hop and traction loss.

    NON-LOWERED vehicles will also see a dramatic increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the LCA with our relocation brackets. The lower mount holes are placed in the arc pattern of the OEM length LCA. Therefore allowing a non-lowered F-Body to drop the rear LCA angle and NOT require a longer than OEM LCA. All geometry is correctly maintained. The anti-squat performance is providing most users with a full .10 or better 60' reduction! "

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    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    cool thanks!

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    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    if i put it in the lower hole would it help more?

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    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    ttt

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    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    ttt

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    Member ApexVIII's Avatar
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    no one else knows?

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    Senior Member JonB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ApexVIII View Post
    if i put it in the lower hole would it help more?
    Yes it will.
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    re:

    What relocation brackets do is increase the angle of the lower control arms. The stock angle is about 180 degs. On a lowered car using the relocation brackets helps return the LCAs angle from a positive angle (which reduces anti-squat hence takes away traction) back to a flat or slightly negative position. On a stock ride height car you can set the LCA's angle to a very negative angle which increases your anti-squat and gives you much more traction on acceleration. You don't have to have them, but they are one of quickest ways you can increase your acceleration traction. Which if you're making more then stock rwhp you well see some benefit from installing them. Of course adding an aftermarket torque arm will the just add to the amount of traction you have. Really the more power you are making the more necessary relocation brackets and other suspension mods are.

    A word of warning putting the LCA's at there lowest setting well make the car loose, so before really cornering the car hard, you might want to feel out how the car handles after the mod.
    1998 Camaro SS Hard Coupe Bright Red #1593
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    But if you lower it, wouldn't that help with cornoring? IE lowering the center of Gravity?

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    Re:

    Read Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams

    He designed the suspension for the 4th gen F-body for GM, he explains everything in his book. Tips and tricks to make your car handle much better.

    By adjusting this youíre moving the roll center of gravity. This can be good, but like anything to much can be bad. By lowering this you really change the geometry of the rear end and your stock F-body goes from tight to loose. If your not use to a loose car then you can spin out more easily, but if you auto cross having a slightly loose car is not a bad thing, it well help you corner. You just have to remember that the rear end well slid out before the front end loses traction (hence being loose).

    Creating more anti-squat equals better acceleration traction. This really helps if you drag race by given you better traction off the line and better 60 foot times, also it helps if circle track race because you may have to slow going in to the corner more (preventing you from spinning out), but you can get back on the gas earlier and carry more exit cornering speed which means more speed down the straight away, which normally results in better lap times.

    Like anything if you really want the car to handle well you are going to have to spend the time and money twicking the suspension. Down side is the best set up for drag racing is not the greatest for handling and vise versa. So you normally have to compromise on where the car is set, more towards drag racing or handling.

    Personally I have aircraft rod joints at all of my suspension points so I can adjust the car for daily driving, auto crossing, or drag racing what ever I maybe doing at the time. This also gets rid of any suspension bind.

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    Senior Member JonB's Avatar
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    I found that with the brackets the car is much more controlable taking hard corners. I will agree that the rear is alittle loose but again it seems much more controlable, it does't feel like its all over the place like stock.

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    re:

    Quote Originally Posted by JonB View Post
    I found that with the brackets the car is much more controlable taking hard corners. I will agree that the rear is alittle loose but again it seems much more controlable, it does't feel like its all over the place like stock.
    I personally found the same result and Iím using Spohnís 10 bolt brackets. Keep in mind that not all brackets are the same. What I mean is that every manufacture does not have there lower mounting point in the same place.

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