LCA Questions

**watson023** · 05-20-2007, 08:41 PM

I was looking at Rear Lower Control Arms and had some questions. Any or all answers are greatly appreciated:
- Spohn, UMI, BMR, J&M, or any other companies? Why?
- Boxed or Tubular? Why?
- Steel, Aluminum, or Chrome Moly? Does it really matter? Why?
- Adjustable or non-adjustable? My car's not lowered. Does it matter? Why?
- UMI Performance Non Adj. Panhard Rod & LCA's for $164.95 Good idea? Why?

Once again, any knowledge and input are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

**Jon7I2** · 05-21-2007, 09:45 AM

go adjustable and i wouldn't go chrome moly unless ur gonna build the car for 600 + hp

**watson023** · 05-21-2007, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by Jon7I2

go adjustable and i wouldn't go chrome moly unless ur gonna build the car for 600 + hp

Why adjustable? Also something I meant to mention was that I don't want to pay much more than $145, maybe up to $175-$180 if it's worth it.

**The Scientist** · 05-21-2007, 02:20 PM

All good questions and I am very interested in hearing some good, knowledgeable responses. I have been hesitant because I too want to do it right the first time. Right now I would go BMR tubular non-adjustable with the combination poly/rubber mounts.

**mrr23** · 05-21-2007, 06:03 PM

when it comes to the trailing arms, all the companies are comparable.

boxed, because it's harder to bend a square tube versus a round tube.

don't know of any aluminum ones. chrome-moly is lighter and stronger than a steel version of same diameter/thickness.

you don't have to have adjustable. just makes it so you can center everything up perfectly. even though your car isn't lowered, the rear isn't perfectly centered. my 86TA had a thrust angle of .29*. this means the rear was pointed to the right of the centerline of the car. this makes the car look like it's going sideways down the road. called dog walking. and it was to the right of center as well. so, adjustable panhard rod fixes the side to side difference. adjustable trailing arms fixes the front to rear differences.

**The Scientist** · 05-21-2007, 06:34 PM

How do you go about even beginning to straighten up a situation like that. Does it take a professional? I assume it is not a job for an amatuer.

**mrr23** · 05-21-2007, 06:37 PM

take it to an alignment shop. they will correct the thrust angle (trailing arms) for you. the side to side difference (panhard) is just a visual thing.

**The Scientist** · 05-21-2007, 06:55 PM

But that is only if you have the adjustable parts? Or can it be done with say stock pieces.

**mrr23** · 05-21-2007, 06:56 PM

cannot be done with stock pieces, as they are not adjustable.

**The Scientist** · 05-22-2007, 09:09 AM

Thanks! I assumed not with the stock pieces. I meant to ask about the non-adjustable aftermarket pieces.

**mrr23** · 05-22-2007, 03:24 PM

same thing, they are not adjustable. so, just bolt on and go.

**third_shift|studios** · 05-23-2007, 12:24 PM

- Spohn, UMI, BMR, J&M, or any other companies? Why?
any of them-best price FTW. If you order a lot from one company, expect good deals.

- Boxed or Tubular? Why?
has been mentioned, boxed is stiffer

- Steel, Aluminum, or Chrome Moly? Does it really matter? Why?
Weight and strength. Chrome Moly is the best of both in that case but most expensive. Steel is heavier and the least expensive. Aluminum is weight savings, dunno how durable it is?

- Adjustable or non-adjustable? My car's not lowered. Does it matter? Why?
I think if you're going to put new ones on, you may aswell do adjustable. HOWEVER...i think only tubular arms are adjustable

- UMI Performance Non Adj. Panhard Rod & LCA's for $164.95 Good idea? Why?
Once again-adjustability is personal preference, you never know if you'll ever lower the car.

**dxdenis02** · 05-23-2007, 12:49 PM

are you an auto-x/road racer or a drag guy

**watson023** · 05-23-2007, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by dxdenis02

are you an auto-x/road racer or a drag guy

Drag, but I do like to be able to handle well on the road. I'm a pretty spirited driver sometimes.

**dxdenis02** · 05-23-2007, 03:08 PM

id go for the umi deal for reduced wheel hop

**uncle ray** · 06-12-2007, 04:05 AM

if you want a serious control arm you need to get one with a pivoting type bushing on the frame side. an dyou wont find one at your price range, tubular is the strongest in that application by weight. thinner walled tubing is stronger than comparable box tubing. in other words you can make a box lca stronger than a tubular one, but at the expense of weight (unsprung weight at that) and chromolly is stronger by weight than steel, but the whole point of using chromolly is that you can use a thinner (lighter) piece and have the same strength as a thicker steel piece. so in teh end they are the same strength cause the chromolly piece will be much thinner and lighter (but still giving the same strength as the thicker steel) chromolly is a luxury item and square tubing is heavy. go with tubular and non adjustabe for ultimate strength to weight ratio, and if you get urethane bushed on both ends it will bind and make noise, but that is the price we pay for a good deal! i use currie johnny joints in my lca's and i have never had any problems or negative feedback, plus they are greaseable! (weather proof)

hope this helped and good luck!

**uncle ray** · 06-12-2007, 04:11 AM

also stay away from rod ends on anything for a street car they are not weather proof, greaseable, or shock resistant and one nice hit they will explode. try to only use greaseable joints if possible and most companies use cheap rod ends anyway cause they "look" cool. but they do not function for street cars unless you constantly check and replace them.

**Eugenio_SS** · 06-12-2007, 11:28 AM

Originally Posted by uncle ray

also stay away from rod ends on anything for a street car they are not weather proof, greaseable, or shock resistant and one nice hit they will explode. try to only use greaseable joints if possible and most companies use cheap rod ends anyway cause they "look" cool. but they do not function for street cars unless you constantly check and replace them.

You just joined and you seem to have a vendetta for rod-ends.
Not only is the information false, your claims are unfound.
did you have bad experience w/ rod-ends ?
You can get rubber covers, but if you clean them once in a blue moon and grease them, they last a very long time.
Also having good rod-ends, will not create noise, and way better handling characteristics.
Actually, poly is worse than stock rubber when it comes to cornering due to the binding... poly is really meant for straight-line ONLY.

**uncle ray** · 06-12-2007, 10:47 PM

you are absolutely right about the poly being for straight line only, if used at both ends of the control arm it will bind. im only saying that rod ends will wear out and eventually fail on a "street vehicle" that is driven daily. they have their place due to light weight and easily replaced, but they are a solid link in a suspension with no give, and are generaly not greaseable or rebuildable.

i personaly replaced all my rod ends on my jeep suspension with johnny joints after my steering linkages failed twice. they just have no tollerance for shock and will eventually fail, especially when subjected to weather. just my experience.

i dont really have any vendetta, just trying to help out someone with what i have seen and experianced thats all. and new to this site does not mean new to suspension or rod ends so please dont toss me into "that" category. thanks!!!