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Konis came in today.

This is a discussion on Konis came in today. within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Unfortunately, I can't get the damn upper nut off... the whole threaded shaft just turns with the nut... I've gotten ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Unfortunately, I can't get the damn upper nut off... the whole threaded shaft just turns with the nut... I've gotten each nut about half way along, but can't get it to turn independently of the "bolt" thingy.

    On the driver side I drilled a hole in the shaft and used an allen wrench to wedge up against the body to allow me to turn the nut.... it worked until I ran into the allen wrench. Even tried to get my bolt cutters in there to cut the damn thing off, but they don't fit in that little space.

    I went ahead and did the LCAs (pain in the butt without a lift--the shop I drove across town to use "closed early" before I got there yesterday... ) hoping that when I came back to the shocks they would miraculously cooperate... but here I am at a loss. I've sprayed some WD40 on the threads hoping it will seep down in between the threads on the nut and hopefully allow it to turn...

    I need to head out to the auto parts store this morning to get a grease gun and some grease for the LCAs... wondering if there is some tool that I can buy to make these shocks come off.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  2. #22
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    pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Any room for an air impact to try and bump it off?

  3. #23
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    You know how when you try your damndest to do a thing, and it's just not working out... so you put it aside. And then you come back later and try the EXACT same thing, and then it miraculously works? Yeah, that just happened. I bought some locking pliers (didn't even know I didn't own a pair... ) which worked out on the driver side. But they wouldn't fit on the passenger side (not enough space under the nut), so I went with the needle nosed pliers and it somehow worked this time.

    Got the shocks installed in a matter of 20 minutes once the old ones finally came out. The next trick will be checking the torque on the upper nuts (can't fit any of my torque wrenches in there, but since it only takes 13 ft.lbs, I might be able to pick up a little one and use that. The Konis apparently come with two upper nuts instead of one. The second one really seems to secure the shock nice and tight, even though it's not torqued down a whole lot.

    Ride is a lot quieter, but while working under the car, I developed a squeak somewhere. Not sure if it's the panhard bar or the exhaust, so when I get under there to grease everything up, I'll see if I can hit those other spots, too.

    It's funny: you do things yourself to "save money" (and to learn, of course), but each job ends up requiring the purchase of more tools...

  4. #24
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    So, I've done a few commutes with the new parts installed.

    I have a noise at the back (been there since the install). It's sort of clunky, but very difficult to describe. In any case, I only hear it on the passenger side.

    Right now, when the car is stopped, I THINK I can replicate it by pressing on the rear quarter panel and pushing the car side to side parallel with the rear axel. This leads me to believe that it might be my panhard bar...?

    I did not make any adjustments to the panhard bar during the install of the LCAs or shocks; however, the rear end did move a little when I was taking parts off. I figured that the installation would put everything back to the previous condition (I used the bolts to match the length of the off-going LCAs, putting them side by side with the new, and then running the bolts through the aligned holes of both parts to confirm the proper adjustment of the new parts).

    Also, I had trouble getting my torque wrench on the front end of the LCAs, so I can't say with 100% certainty that they are torqued all the way down on the front. But, the noise seems to be only on the passenger side, and it seems to be aft of the front portion of the LCA.

    When driving, it occurs at low speeds on the slightest of road bumps (basically, road that would be considered "smooth"--I don't feel any bumps/dips while the noise is going on). At high speeds, I do not hear anything. The car also behaves much better over speed bumps than with the old parts, in case that helps narrow it down (doesn't seem to be a total failure of an install: at least something seems to be working right).

    Any ideas on what I might have screwed up?

    They are Koni shocks and poly/roto LCAs.

  5. #25
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    I would just get under there and run the torque wrench over everything again. If I recall, the LCA's are torqued to 75 lb.ft. Don't forget to check your rear shocks, grab ahold of them and forcefully try to wiggle the top and bottom to see if there is any movement that would allow metal on metal contact. Had that happen on our 'Burb and it drove me nuts for awhile... well, more nuts anyway.

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