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Inatallation Tips? LCAs

This is a discussion on Inatallation Tips? LCAs within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Thinking about pulling the trigger soon on some LCAs. I know I started a thread about this a while ago, ...

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Inatallation Tips? LCAs

    Thinking about pulling the trigger soon on some LCAs.

    I know I started a thread about this a while ago, but here's a new one anyway!

    When doing the work, does the suspension need to be loaded?

    I have ramps that I can use, or I can use jack stands.

    Also, is there anything to be aware of before I take the parts off or put parts on? Such as, do only one at a time etc, etc.?

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    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    You want the car basically level and the weight of the car on the suspension -- front wheels on ramps and rear axle on jackstands will work. Just be sure it is done safely! Only do one side at a time and ensure that you have a jack or other safety device under the car just in case. Not a bad idea to place a piece of wood between your seat and the brake pedal to lock the front brakes as the rear will be in the air.
    Last edited by pajeff02; 03-23-2016 at 04:23 AM.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff.

    I've been watching videos on Youtube to get some ideas.

    Once I drive up the ramps, I'm thinking that the rear will be too low to get my jack underneath, but I might be able to get in front of the rear wheel.

    I've also thought of taking it to a DIY garage and pay $20 for a stall with a 4-post lift... That might make life altogether easier and safer as well (won't have the munchkins getting curious about the car or the tools).
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Stage 1 Heads, Mild Cam, Magnaflow Cat-Back, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Strano Sway Bars, LCAs, Konis (F), Bilstiens (R), MGW Shifter

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    Member TransAmTerry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Thanks Jeff.

    I've been watching videos on Youtube to get some ideas.

    Once I drive up the ramps, I'm thinking that the rear will be too low to get my jack underneath, but I might be able to get in front of the rear wheel.

    I've also thought of taking it to a DIY garage and pay $20 for a stall with a 4-post lift... That might make life altogether easier and safer as well (won't have the munchkins getting curious about the car or the tools).
    I would KILL for a DIY garage in my area !!! I used to have access to one on base in Ct. when I was in the Navy but haven't seen one since.
    '02 Black RamAir M6--Kooks LTH, Magnaflo, Lowered Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks, Tuned By Frost, K&N & SLP box, Smooth bellows, polished TB, Spohn perf. suspension, shock tower brace. UMI 3point SFC. Front & side splitters w/ canards.
    '76 LagunaS3 - 355ci , 350 turbo, 3:55's

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    That's what I did when I installed the 2 point SFC's -- borrowed time on a four post lift at a local garage. I installed the 3 points using a set of homemade blocks under the wheels.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransAmTerry View Post
    I would KILL for a DIY garage in my area !!! I used to have access to one on base in Ct. when I was in the Navy but haven't seen one since.
    As it turns out... seems like the DIY garage nearest me jas closed.... :sad:

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    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Did you end up getting them installed? Did you go adjustable?
    2000 Trans Am WS.6 M6

    SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    No, actually. But I'm looking at budgeting for them in the next month or so: my shocks and LCAs are both due for replacement.

    Incidentally, I was signing on here just to look at this thread to determine if I could do this in my garage with a high probability of success on the first try. Otherwise, I'd just have it done at a shop with the shocks.

    As for which part, I'm 99% going to get the poly/roto adjustables from UMI. The other possibility would be roto/roto, but based on what I've read, it's a toss up whether I will get road noise transferred into the cabin without the poly on the front side. I'm so sick of the road noise from my rod-ends.
    Last edited by Naaman; 08-28-2016 at 11:00 PM.

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    Member speedyWS6's Avatar
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    Pewter
    2002 WS6 TA

    I did mine with exactly the equipment Jeff suggests but one thing i never did was to have the front on ramps.

    No doubt this is to keep the car level once on jack stands but my installation went without a hitch.
    and they work fine, I went with UMI from Summit.

    Once the wheel was off i jacked quite high and lowered the rear onto the axle stand near the diff and
    got busy with the spanners. make sure the correct grade of bolts are used and i was able to re-use the originals
    with no issues.

    All very straightforward.


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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    yep.....piece of cake. Did mine on ramps and stands many years ago. Another tip is to make sure you torque those bolts down hard enough. The front bolts are kind of hard to get a torque wrench on but they call for like 80-90 ft/lbs so tighten the crap out them or they'll "thump".
    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28 View Post
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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Yes. I had that thump after the SFC install. I believe the instructions from UMI indicated 72 ft/lbs, but after checking torque on them, 72 doesn't seem to be enough. I will check them when I get under the car to see how tight they are on there now (after fixing the thump by tightening them down, I haven't had the thump since 2012).

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    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    No thumping or such from my SFC job luckily. I'm going poly/poly adjustable for LCAs. Not sure if it will happen this year or not, gotta get that torque arm in.

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    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I've been itching for a torque arm, as well. Though I have a policy when it comes to dumping money into my car: If I'm not solving a problem, then the part doesn't get bought. The LCAs and shocks will come first. I'm having a really crappy experience with those rear Bilsteins and rod-end LCAs. I'm reasonably sure the Bilsteins are shot... gonna install some Koni's out back. I'm looking at doing it with the LCAs, if I can scrape the cash together for both.

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