Inatallation Tips? LCAs

**Naaman** · 03-23-2016, 02:06 AM

Thinking about pulling the trigger soon on some LCAs.

I know I started a thread about this a while ago, but here's a new one anyway!

When doing the work, does the suspension need to be loaded?

I have ramps that I can use, or I can use jack stands.

Also, is there anything to be aware of before I take the parts off or put parts on? Such as, do only one at a time etc, etc.?

**pajeff02** · 03-23-2016, 03:21 AM

You want the car basically level and the weight of the car on the suspension -- front wheels on ramps and rear axle on jackstands will work. Just be sure it is done safely! Only do one side at a time and ensure that you have a jack or other safety device under the car just in case. Not a bad idea to place a piece of wood between your seat and the brake pedal to lock the front brakes as the rear will be in the air.

**Naaman** · 03-23-2016, 04:27 AM

Thanks Jeff.

I've been watching videos on Youtube to get some ideas.

Once I drive up the ramps, I'm thinking that the rear will be too low to get my jack underneath, but I might be able to get in front of the rear wheel.

I've also thought of taking it to a DIY garage and pay $20 for a stall with a 4-post lift... That might make life altogether easier and safer as well (won't have the munchkins getting curious about the car or the tools).

**TransAmTerry** · 03-23-2016, 06:14 AM

Originally Posted by Naaman

Thanks Jeff.

I've been watching videos on Youtube to get some ideas.

Once I drive up the ramps, I'm thinking that the rear will be too low to get my jack underneath, but I might be able to get in front of the rear wheel.

I've also thought of taking it to a DIY garage and pay $20 for a stall with a 4-post lift... That might make life altogether easier and safer as well (won't have the munchkins getting curious about the car or the tools).

I would KILL for a DIY garage in my area !!! I used to have access to one on base in Ct. when I was in the Navy but haven't seen one since.

**pajeff02** · 03-23-2016, 11:54 AM

That's what I did when I installed the 2 point SFC's -- borrowed time on a four post lift at a local garage. I installed the 3 points using a set of homemade blocks under the wheels.

**Naaman** · 03-23-2016, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by TransAmTerry

I would KILL for a DIY garage in my area !!! I used to have access to one on base in Ct. when I was in the Navy but haven't seen one since.

As it turns out... seems like the DIY garage nearest me jas closed.... :sad:

**DarrenWS6** · 08-28-2016, 01:14 PM

Did you end up getting them installed? Did you go adjustable?

**Naaman** · 08-28-2016, 09:44 PM

No, actually. But I'm looking at budgeting for them in the next month or so: my shocks and LCAs are both due for replacement.

Incidentally, I was signing on here just to look at this thread to determine if I could do this in my garage with a high probability of success on the first try. Otherwise, I'd just have it done at a shop with the shocks.

As for which part, I'm 99% going to get the poly/roto adjustables from UMI. The other possibility would be roto/roto, but based on what I've read, it's a toss up whether I will get road noise transferred into the cabin without the poly on the front side. I'm so sick of the road noise from my rod-ends.

**speedyWS6** · 08-29-2016, 04:23 AM

I did mine with exactly the equipment Jeff suggests but one thing i never did was to have the front on ramps.

No doubt this is to keep the car level once on jack stands but my installation went without a hitch.
and they work fine, I went with UMI from Summit.

Once the wheel was off i jacked quite high and lowered the rear onto the axle stand near the diff and
got busy with the spanners. make sure the correct grade of bolts are used and i was able to re-use the originals
with no issues.

All very straightforward.

**0rion** · 08-29-2016, 09:08 PM

yep.....piece of cake. Did mine on ramps and stands many years ago. Another tip is to make sure you torque those bolts down hard enough. The front bolts are kind of hard to get a torque wrench on but they call for like 80-90 ft/lbs so tighten the crap out them or they'll "thump".

**Naaman** · 08-29-2016, 11:13 PM

Yes. I had that thump after the SFC install. I believe the instructions from UMI indicated 72 ft/lbs, but after checking torque on them, 72 doesn't seem to be enough. I will check them when I get under the car to see how tight they are on there now (after fixing the thump by tightening them down, I haven't had the thump since 2012).

**DarrenWS6** · 09-07-2016, 01:44 PM

No thumping or such from my SFC job luckily. I'm going poly/poly adjustable for LCAs. Not sure if it will happen this year or not, gotta get that torque arm in.

**Naaman** · 09-08-2016, 05:02 AM

I've been itching for a torque arm, as well. Though I have a policy when it comes to dumping money into my car: If I'm not solving a problem, then the part doesn't get bought. The LCAs and shocks will come first. I'm having a really crappy experience with those rear Bilsteins and rod-end LCAs. I'm reasonably sure the Bilsteins are shot... gonna install some Koni's out back. I'm looking at doing it with the LCAs, if I can scrape the cash together for both.