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I want my Vert to feel more solid

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    I want my Vert to feel more solid

    Alright, so, when I installed my SFCs, I noticed a significant difference in the feel of the car. Now, I want to amplify that effect as much as possible.

    In this particular situation, I'm not looking for "better handling" or a "stiffer ride." I want the car to feel more solid... kinda like the whole car is just one solid piece.

    I've been considering a strut tower brace and a DSL with tunnel brace (though some say those don't do anything for the feel of the car). Also, most DSLs that I've been able to find are only compatible with specific exhaust set ups... which is a bit of a bummer.

    Anyway, what mods are most worth while to give the car a nice, solid feel? Here's what I have already:

    Adjustable Koni shocks front (tuned by Sam Strano)
    Heavy-duty Bilstein shocks rear (also from Sam Strano)
    Adjustable lower control arms alloy billet
    17" alloy wheels 8.5 front and 9.5 rear
    Michlilen Pilot Sport A/S Plus 255-45-17 front and 275-40-17 rear
    Magnaflow stainless steel cat-back exhaust with custom tips
    SLP air lid with K&N filter
    Skip shift eliminator
    NGK plugs
    UMI chrome moly SFCs

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    poly bushings all the way around. You have to understand though that making everything stiff and solid is going to effect the ride quality quite a bit. Bumps will be your enemy and vibrations will be your norm.

  3. #3
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    An aftermarket adjustable pan hard bar would help, and is pretty cheap. From what I've gathered on here, STB's are a waste of coin and really don't do anything.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    poly bushings all the way around. You have to understand though that making everything stiff and solid is going to effect the ride quality quite a bit. Bumps will be your enemy and vibrations will be your norm.
    I agree.

    With this said, I'm not sure what your goal is.
    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    An aftermarket adjustable pan hard bar would help, and is pretty cheap. From what I've gathered on here, STB's are a waste of coin and really don't do anything.
    I did my STB, b/c I got for cheap with free shipping, at the same time I did my SFC. So it was hard to tell if it did anything. The only benefits it's suppose to produce are in auto-x, but I think it benefit a vert more.

    I guess, with out having too much vibration/stiffness transferred, I would go with DSL tunnel brace, but not the relocation one. UMI makes 2 different ones, that should be able to fit any exhaust. Possibly the panhard bar next, then front and rear sway bars. If you want to go with STB, it can't hurt, but I wouldn't expect a huge a difference.

    And I vote for UMI products.

  5. #5
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    May I also suggest, a good quality summer tire..

    This will give a more responsive feel in cornering and braking as well...

    I run auto-x race tires (not really for wet use).. Very sticky but will only last the summer..

    Especially if you burn them off alot, or consistantly corner hard..

    Just my .02
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    poly bushings all the way around. You have to understand though that making everything stiff and solid is going to effect the ride quality quite a bit. Bumps will be your enemy and vibrations will be your norm.
    Yeah, but I thought that absorbing bumps was the suspension's job, not the chassis'. Stiffening up the chassis would not cause the car to hop over every little pebble, would it?

  7. #7
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Yeah, but I thought that absorbing bumps was the suspension's job, not the chassis'. Stiffening up the chassis would not cause the car to hop over every little pebble, would it?
    correct but as you stiffen everything up and if you use poly instead of rubber those bumps and vibrations get trasmitted to the chassis. Rubber is soft and absorbs a lot more than poly. How bad it is boils down to what you consider bad. Some guys can run solid motor mounts and all that stuff and love it.....some guys want a good handling car but want a factory ride which isn't going to happen.

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Not to mention sometimes poly stuff will make noises too..

    Bottom line here though is, there is only so much you can do with a live axle anyways..

    A solid axle is always going to be a sacrafice...

  9. #9
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    So you're saying that a live axle amplifies the effects of body flex and roll?

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    So you're saying that a live axle amplifies the effects of body flex and roll?
    Sometimes..

    But it was more to the "more solid" aspect of your first post..

  11. #11
    Junior Member Skeet12's Avatar
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    I added a Lakewood DSL because my exhaust hit the cheap stamped stock one. I seemed to notice a slight difference. Maybe only a mindset. I can't comment on the STB as I did mine with the SFC as well. New poly bushings on sway bars and end links seemed t ohelp though.
    2000 WS6 A4,Pacesetter LT,TSP catted Y, Magnaflow Catback, LS6 intake,Diablosport, Strano springs, Koni 4/3, UMI Adj Panhard, UMI LCA, Poly Motor and Tran mounts, Circle D 3B 3500 stall, Tuned by Frost

  12. #12
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    May I also suggest, a good quality summer tire..

    This will give a more responsive feel in cornering and braking as well...

    I run auto-x race tires (not really for wet use).. Very sticky but will only last the summer..

    Especially if you burn them off alot, or consistantly corner hard..

    Just my .02
    Once I move out of WA later this year, I will be back in the market for summer tires. For now, my Michelins are fantastic.

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    correct but as you stiffen everything up and if you use poly instead of rubber those bumps and vibrations get trasmitted to the chassis. Rubber is soft and absorbs a lot more than poly. How bad it is boils down to what you consider bad. Some guys can run solid motor mounts and all that stuff and love it.....some guys want a good handling car but want a factory ride which isn't going to happen.
    So, are the poly bushings what connect the suspension to the chassis? Or are they purely a suspension mod? I'm not so concerned with achieving a stiff(er) ride, as much as I want the car to feel like it's all moving as one piece.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Once I move out of WA later this year, I will be back in the market for summer tires. For now, my Michelins are fantastic.



    So, are the poly bushings what connect the suspension to the chassis? Or are they purely a suspension mod? I'm not so concerned with achieving a stiff(er) ride, as much as I want the car to feel like it's all moving as one piece.
    same thing......if you want a good handling car then the stiffer the better. Rubber bushings flex and absorb which makes it ride better but isn't optimal for handling. Bushings connect the suspension, tranny, and engine to the chassis. Right now they're all rubber unless you've put aftermarket stuff in that came with poly. As you replace suspension components swap the bushings to poly but like I said.....there will be more vibrations and you'll start avoiding bumps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Once I move out of WA later this year, I will be back in the market for summer tires. For now, my Michelins are fantastic.



    So, are the poly bushings what connect the suspension to the chassis? Or are they purely a suspension mod? I'm not so concerned with achieving a stiff(er) ride, as much as I want the car to feel like it's all moving as one piece.
    I heard that.. Lived in Evrett Wa. a couple of years myself..

    Worked for Robinson Plumbing Inc..

    Loved it out there, beutiful but way too wet for me..

    After earning my residential license I headed back to Pittsburgh..

    I run Kumho Victoracer v700 (shaveable) racing tires 265/45/16's on all corners, and Moog HD end links...

    The artical on them stated that they could be used in wet wheather..

    However with only 6/32 tread depth new I did'nt want to find out..

  15. #15
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    I heard that.. Lived in Evrett Wa. a couple of years myself..

    Worked for Robinson Plumbing Inc..

    Loved it out there, beutiful but way too wet for me..

    After earning my residential license I headed back to Pittsburgh..

    I run Kumho Victoracer v700 (shaveable) racing tires 265/45/16's on all corners, and Moog HD end links...

    The artical on them stated that they could be used in wet wheather..

    However with only 6/32 tread depth new I did'nt want to find out..
    Yeah, what they mean is... they're "street legal"

  16. #16
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    same thing......if you want a good handling car then the stiffer the better. Rubber bushings flex and absorb which makes it ride better but isn't optimal for handling. Bushings connect the suspension, tranny, and engine to the chassis. Right now they're all rubber unless you've put aftermarket stuff in that came with poly. As you replace suspension components swap the bushings to poly but like I said.....there will be more vibrations and you'll start avoiding bumps.
    So if I were to weld together all of the sprung mass (leaving the unsprung mass untouched), I would get a bumpier ride and lots of vibration, right?

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