I have a front shocks question

**kool-aide** · 05-21-2008, 04:12 PM

Ok, in another thread I received answer to a shock question. Are the fronts shocks or struts. So the answer was shocks, not struts, and they are a coil over shock.

So new question.

Does this mean you don't have a strut boot? I mean if they are not struts then I would say no. I decided to by KYB and for the front they sell a strut boot. I figured I would pass because it said it was not required. Now i'm wondering. Do you spend the 36 bucks or so for a pair of boots and call it overkill, or was it a good decision to pass on them?

it's on their products page, second from bottom, http://www.kyb.com/products/

thanks

kool-aide

**mrr23** · 05-26-2008, 08:35 PM

the boot is there to keep debris off the shaft. this helps to keep the o-ring seal from getting torn and leak fluid everywhere. you use your old one.

**kool-aide** · 05-27-2008, 03:20 PM

thanks, that's what i figured. I just took the old ones off. the one that had the broken shock mount i needed to cut the shaft. That sucker was on there for good.

do you know if the new shock mounts will come with new bolts and nuts? I saw a picture of a Monroe mount and it had nuts and bolts. I ordered a set of KYB mounts.

I noticed on the one that was busted a small washer between the dust boot and what was left of the inner mount. Is it critical? I know I have the one washer, but the other side i won't know until i take it off again. I don't know if I have any washers that tough. most of mine are going to be zinc.

i bolted my vice to my work table this time, no more crawling on the floor with the spring compressor in the dirt.

thanks

**mrr23** · 05-27-2008, 03:53 PM

yes, the new mounts come with bolts and nuts.

**kool-aide** · 05-28-2008, 01:19 PM

great. What about that washer thing? I'd say it is about the size of a nickle with an inner diameter not much bigger than the top thin part of the shock shaft. I'd say it is even as thick as a nickel too.

**mrr23** · 05-28-2008, 02:58 PM

not sure

**kool-aide** · 05-28-2008, 03:00 PM

hmm, well, i'm sure i will come up with something.

thanks

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-03-2008, 11:25 PM

Originally Posted by kool-aide

hmm, well, i'm sure i will come up with something.

thanks

OMG, I will be doing my front KYBs soon. You ready? LOL!

**kool-aide** · 06-04-2008, 12:58 PM

sure, lol...

if you have to compress the springs yourself the old fashion way then maybe think about uncompressing them while on the car.

Air tools would have been a huge help and made things go like lightening.

It was always the re-install that gave me such a head ache trying to get the lower shock bolts lined up.

Now one thing I found was it sure is tight in there trying to slowly uncompress, that's what i get for not having air tools.

Despite what Haynes says you don't need to take off the sway bar, learned that the hard way.

But, like I said that re-install is a PITA with a shock that is a touch taller,

.

You also have to keep you eye on that spindle. It likes to jump out at you and dangle by the break line. I used some old solid wire to keep it in its place, well sometimes. It still wiggles all over the place.

first time, about 14 hours, dude I was working a new world record
second time, about 6 hours
third time, about 5 hours

the biggest difference in time was not having to do all the cutting and griding the 2nd and 3rd time.

Good luck.

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-04-2008, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by kool-aide

sure, lol...

if you have to compress the springs yourself the old fashion way then maybe think about uncompressing them while on the car.

Air tools would have been a huge help and made things go like lightening.

It was always the re-install that gave me such a head ache trying to get the lower shock bolts lined up.

Now one thing I found was it sure is tight in there trying to slowly uncompress, that's what i get for not having air tools.

Despite what Haynes says you don't need to take off the sway bar, learned that the hard way.

But, like I said that re-install is a PITA with a shock that is a touch taller,

.

You also have to keep you eye on that spindle. It likes to jump out at you and dangle by the break line. I used some old solid wire to keep it in its place, well sometimes. It still wiggles all over the place.

first time, about 14 hours, dude I was working a new world record
second time, about 6 hours
third time, about 5 hours

the biggest difference in time was not having to do all the cutting and griding the 2nd and 3rd time.

Good luck.

Not looking forward to this, but I've got someone to help me. I put a shock tower brace and sub-frame connectors, what a change. Stiff. How are you liking the KYBs?

**kool-aide** · 06-04-2008, 04:22 PM

different. i feel the road a tad more. I would say in a swerve its about same as stock.

if you have a friend to help think about getting two spring compressor tools.

An extra set of hands helps, but there was a ton of time it was just a one man show. My wife helped as my second set of hands.

let's just say i took the shocks off so many times i almost bought new upper arms just because i never wanted to do it again.

at least with the upper arms its just pull them out put them in. with hand tools compressing the spring takes forever.

**kool-aide** · 06-04-2008, 04:28 PM

oh, pay attention to the stock shocks up front when you take them apart. If yours are in decent shape i was always interested in how many washers where used.

I only ever found one, between the dust boor and shock mount. Every thing else was so rusted i have no idea what is supposed to be there.

mine looks like this, shock, dust boot, washer, shock mount, rubber covered metal insert thing on top of shock mount, and the little nut that holds the top stuff on. I'm not sure if there was supposed to be any washers any where else.

And the nut doesn't go down very far, about 1 1/2 nut widths if you count the nut itself. Or at least that is what mine ended up being.

Of course I was always in just a lovely mood there were no pictures. I wouldn't dare get my camera all nasty dirty.

Of course it was loads of fun compressing and uncompressing the spring just to get that darn dust boot in there.

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-04-2008, 04:36 PM

Same as stock in a corner? Did you do your rear shocks? They made a huge diff in my cornering. I'm hoping to feel the road more and a bit more stiff as others have described. The roads down here are nice so that will actually work for me. If I was up north hitting potholes I would have stayed with Gabriels.

**kool-aide** · 06-04-2008, 04:43 PM

yep, all four, gas-a-just, not agx.

I'm probably not the best person for gaging how things feel.

I don't have a shock tower or sub frame. All stock except the shocks, plus t-tops.

In a corner i don't notice too much. Where I feel the most difference is in a swerve. Mostly because i am yanking that wheel around left and right trying to find that noise.

So I am swerving a lot, lol...

But I do notice a little bit more road, and the bumps have a slightly hard jolt to them.

But nothing harsh or unbearable at all. Heck with poly motor and tran mounts you get over harsh in a hurry, lol..

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-04-2008, 05:57 PM

If you have the $ I would go with at least a shock tower brace. It makes such a difference in the 'swerve'. I had trouble believing what an improvement an $80 brace across towers could make, but it's true. It ties the front end together so you loose that 'wobble' feeling and can feel more confident in a tight 'swerve'. There's got to be better vocabulary out there for 'swerve' and 'wobble' LMAO! Anyone know what we mean? By 'swerve' I am referring to a quick jerk in the steering wheel, like an aggressive auto-cross steer. My 'wobble' is referring to that floating feeling in a corner when the suspension is anything but confident and stiff.

**kool-aide** · 06-05-2008, 02:02 PM

yeah, yank and jerk, lol...

**kool-aide** · 06-05-2008, 02:06 PM

Ah, yeah i don't feel any corning float. I'm stock height and springs so in a corner i feel a little higher body roll than probably others.

the swerve is the rocking the car back and forth like in a slalom. Its not bad, it just doesn't really feel like it is a bigger improvement over the stock.

but then again height can possibly be a factor, I'm no expert.

I notice most people swap shocks and springs at the same time, so maybe what they feel is improvement beyond just the shock. If i lower it it could feel more like a go-cart, low and tight in the corner.

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-05-2008, 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by kool-aide

Ah, yeah i don't feel any corning float. I'm stock height and springs so in a corner i feel a little higher body roll than probably others.

the swerve is the rocking the car back and forth like in a slalom. Its not bad, it just doesn't really feel like it is a bigger improvement over the stock.

but then again height can possibly be a factor, I'm no expert.

I notice most people swap shocks and springs at the same time, so maybe what they feel is improvement beyond just the shock. If i lower it it could feel more like a go-cart, low and tight in the corner.

Shock tower brace will make a huge improvement, along with the sub-frame connectors. I can go into a corner down this twisty road nearby at +10 mph faster than before, as before it would get excessive body roll and not feel as firm. Let's see what the shocks do. Of course I do have the B4C springs and sway bars which are better than Z28.

**kool-aide** · 06-05-2008, 02:26 PM

lol...yeah, and high mileage goodies right? Don't they put like really good belts and hoses on them and a trans cooler?

The only cars I've seen for sale where i leave with the B4C are ex-highway patrol cars.

**TedsB4Csled** · 06-05-2008, 02:34 PM

Originally Posted by kool-aide

lol...yeah, and high mileage goodies right? Don't they put like really good belts and hoses on them and a trans cooler?

The only cars I've seen for sale where i leave with the B4C are ex-highway patrol cars.

This was an ex-highway car up in NC. HD suspension, tranny cooler(which didn't help

), alternator & electrical, aluminum drive shaft and a few other things I can't recall. I can't see the tranny cooler lines. I'm wondering if there is one there. Had it rebuilt, so I am curious if they removed it. I think we're the only ones on this thread.