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Here is a list I compiled together for building an F Body into a very quick car

This is a discussion on Here is a list I compiled together for building an F Body into a very quick car within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the ...

  1. #1
    Member Exotic Performance Plus's Avatar
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    Hugger Orange
    1999 Z28

    Smile Here is a list I compiled together for building an F Body into a very quick car

    Here is a list of items that I recently put together for building up the chassis prior to adding the horsepower. People are always asking the question of whether to go with a head and cam package, or go with a supercharger or turbocharger. There is no way you are to match the power of an ATI ProCharger with a head and cam package unless you use a pretty radical camshaft. Nitrous oxide could be used instead of going the forced induction route, with very good results at a fraction of the cost. A cold air kit would be required if you elect to use nitrous oxide instead of going the forced induction (ATI ProCharger) route. The ATI ProChargers come with a K&N cone filter. With forced induction, such as the ATI ProCharger, the power is always going to be there when you want it, with no nitrous bottles to constantly refill. A turbocharger could be used instead of an ATI ProCharger, but I am not convinced that the turbo kits currently out on the market will stand the test of time. TurboChargers go through extreme heat cycles, which can fracture the turbo housing mounts.
    With the items listed below, your car would be quite capable of routinely running low eleven second 1/4 mile times, or faster, when combined with the M/T Street radial rear tires.

    Everyone has their opinions on what is the best package, and here is mine.

    1. Subframe Connectors - Absolutely necessary to keep your F Body from twisting and stretching. I have seen too many of these cars lose their door to fender gaps from having gone too long without subframe connectors. Subframe connectors will make the car handle better, you'll get fewer squeaks and the car will get better traction.

    2. Torque Arm - BMR, Global West and Spohn all make torque arms that relocate the front mount off of the transmission by relocating the front mount back behind the transmission. The relocation of the front mount relieves the stress from the tailshaft of the transmission that the torque arm places on it, as a result of trying to contain the rear-end and it's rotational stresses. The stock torque arm is a stamped piece of sheetmetal that has broken apart for many people, and it sometimes takes out the driveshaft with it when it goes. By relocating the front mount of the torque arm behind the transmission, the geometry of the rear suspension becomes much better and really aids in hooking up the rear suspension. While replacing the torque arm, check the transmission mount, as the stock torque arm places a huge load on the mount, and the mount breaks quite often when using the factory torque arm. The adjustability of these aftermarket torque arms allows the user to adjust the pinion angle of the rear suspension which aids in finding traction.

    3. Moser 12 bolt - Sooner or later the weak 7.5" Chevy S-10 derived 10 bolt is going to break. I wouldn't waste any money into attempting to build up the 10 bolt, it just doesn't work. There isn't one strong point to the stocker. For those of you with a six speed transmission, the 10 bolt has broken on many M6 cars with stock power. Expect the worse to happen... 3:73 gears in the Moser rear-end is a good compromise, especially when adding a lot of power to the engine.

    4. Driveshaft - The stock GM driveshaft have broken for many enthusiast, both the steel and the 3.0" aluminum GM driveshafts are fairly weak. I recommend an aftermarket 3.5" aluminum driveshaft with a 1350 Yoke with a 1350 U Joint. Combined with the Moser 12 bolt with their supplied 1350 yoke, you will have a strong drivetrain.

    5. Clutch and pressure plate - I recommend the Spec Stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. Expect some chatter for the first 500 miles, then it will be pretty smooth. I would also add the '01-'02 slave cylinder for the older models, and do the "drill mod" to the master cylinder. Do a search on this forum for the drill mod, and you will see what it entails.

    At this point I believe the suspension is capable off supporting a lot of horsepower, and you can go straight to item 14.
    For those of you who are dragstrip bound, I would also add a few additional items.

    6. Adjustable lower control arms - The aftermarket lower control arms are much stouter, and will not flex like the factory lower control arms. Going with adjustable ones will allow the user to center the rear end in the wheelwell. The stock rear end position from the factory tends to be .5" towards the rear of the car. You really won't notice it until larger diameter tires are installed.

    7. Lower control arm relocation brackets - Lower control arm relocation brackets are meant to be used when the car has been lowered, which alters the angle of the lower control arms. We have found that the relocation brackets also help in getting traction in non lowered cars. We use the weld on style that BMR offers.

    8. Panhard bar - The factory pan hard bar is pretty flimsy and additional traction can be found by replacing the factory pan hard bar with a heavier duty aftermarket bar. The rear in these cars tends to sit closer to the right side, and by purchasing an adjustable pan hard bar, the rear-end can be centered in the body.

    9. Strut Tower Brace - Eliminate flexing in the front end by adding an aftermarket strut tower brace. You will also notice that the car will handle better with a strut tower brace.

    10. Battery box relocation - By relocating the battery to the trunk, you will remove a lot of weight off the front of the car and place the weight behind the rear-end, where it will aid in traction. The car will also be able to handle better with the weight relocation.

    11. Rear coil spring air bags - By experimenting with adding more air to the right air bag than to the left one, better off the line traction can be found.

    12. Adjustable shocks and front coil over springs - We use the Hal QA1 12 way adjustable shocks on our cars. It is easy to adjust these shocks for street use, and then readjust them for strip use by simply rotating the 12 way adjustable dial. The Hal QA1 front coil over springs allows the front end height to easily be adjusted.

    13. K member - By replacing the front K member and upper and lower control arms with light weight aftermarket tubular ones, a lot of weight is removed from the front suspension. Since front end weight is removed, better off the line traction and better handling will occur. We have had good success with the BMR parts, and combined with the Hal QA1 shocks and coil over front springs, gives the car a much better chance of getting traction on the starting line.

    14. Headers and cat back exhaust - Everyone has their favorites, but we have grown very fond of Hooker and Flowtech headers, and the Hooker and Magnaflow Cat Back exhaust systems.
    Flowtech and Hooker ceramic coated headers fit very well, with excellent ground clearance. The Flowtech headers are priced very competitively with PaceSetter headers, yet they install and fit much better. The ceramic coatings go a long way towards keeping the exhaust temps in the pipes, keeping the engine bay cooler and improving internal exhaust scavenging. These two brands of headers will give you 2.5" more in ground clearance compared to SLP headers.
    The Hooker and Magnaflow cat back exhaust systems give these cars a good muscular sound that will not drown out your stereo while driving down the road. The exhaust tubing is larger than the stock tubing and is mandrel bent, for better exhaust flow.

    For those of you who want it loud. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will annoy everyone around you, the two above exhaust systems are not for you. The SLP "Loud Mouth" cat back is a good system for those of you who want to be noticed. When we have one of these cars on my dyno with a loud mouth exhaust system, everyone around our area can hear the car!

    15. ATI ProCharger D-1SC eight rib supercharger - Simply the best and easiest way to get 450 to 500 rwhp out of your car in my opinion, when combined with headers and a good cat back exhaust system. The car will still see great part throttle gas mileage, overall driveability will still be excellent, and the power is always there when you want it. At 8 pounds of boost, the car will be very dependable, and with the twin high flow air to air intercoolers, unleaded premium is all you need to use. I recommend the ATI ProCharger D-1SC "tuner" kit, as the D-1SC can handle future mods much better than the P-1SC. You will need 42 lb fuel injectors, a 255 litre in tank fuel pump, and chassis dyno tuning with the "tuner" kit.

    Hopefully this list will help you in your quest for having a quick car! Bob
    Last edited by mrr23; 01-11-2006 at 05:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Ahh crap... needmorepwr's Avatar
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    very good info listed here! Thank you for posting this!

  3. #3
    Member Exotic Performance Plus's Avatar
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    Not a problem. Thanks! Bob

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    BOB!!!! Thanks for being the BIGGER MAN and coming back over. Your knowledge is ALWAYS welcome!

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    Sounds like a good list of components to get started with.

  6. #6
    Member Exotic Performance Plus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711
    BOB!!!! Thanks for being the BIGGER MAN and coming back over. Your knowledge is ALWAYS welcome!
    Thanks, I appreciate it! Bob

  7. #7
    joechen
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    Good list.
    Can you also list the rough costs?
    Thanks

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    nice list...

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    I went to Playboy Mansion FantaZGuy28's Avatar
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    Good read, you should make this a sticky for new readers to see on the top.

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    MEMBER 5150's Avatar
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    good info thanks

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    good chassis tips , what about 4.11 instead of 3.73 though ?

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    well, i have issue with #3 personally. other than that, good info. i'll sticky for you.

  14. #14
    Member Exotic Performance Plus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Milne
    good chassis tips , what about 4.11 instead of 3.73 though ?
    4.11's work until the rwhp gets up to where you're on the rev limiter in the traps. With my 28" tall tires, I was at 6200 rpm at the 1000 ft mark when I had 4.10's. Bob
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    i think it's a good writeup as well. i would only suggest being more general. like 9" option aside from 12 bolt and heads and cam option aside from procharger. the truth is your list, including the procharger ends up with around 500 hp which you can just as well and have it even more reliable (in my opinion) with head's and cam cuz you have new valvetrain components, even if that means a slightly rougher idle. I'm not talking about cnc'd heads, i mean hand ported heads w/ a matching cam with upgraded springs, rods, oilpump, and double timing chain and a custom dyno tune, that sounds more reliable and with a 4.11 rear and a good clutch and stickies you can drop it at 6k rpm and have a 10 sec car! Cartek did it with stock pistons,rods,and crank, and they're right around my corner.

    for this reason i think #15 is the one i have a problem with.

    but i respect your opinion and yes, if you want more power and will later add a supercharger then you have to plan ahead and get heads and cam that will drop compression and forged pistons and then you have some real power.

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    I'm gonna say a 9" instead of a 12-Bolt for 6-Speed cars.

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    Need to add a stall convertor for A4 cars

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    great list for people that are interested on a "fast car" in the quarter-mile and not a "fast car" around a road racing track.
    For those interested in road-racing/cornering, there are some alarming parts that ppl should consider otherwise.
    As an example, the Torque-Arm is great for drag and weight transfer to the rear, which is good for accelerations, but having a shorter torque-arm WILL hinder your braking capacities and will make the car even more prone for brake wheel-hop.
    Another example, is the K-member from BMR... those are far from being safe on a road-course... they are great for straight-line, but not cornering.

    great list, but i'd challenge you on #9... lots have tried to get data @ tracks and there is no difference in handling.
    Take a car, do sesssions w/ and w/out it with a good driver on the car that knows the track and knows fbodies... compare the data.
    been there, done that.

    For those interested in cornering:
    alignment, brakes, shocks, sway-bars
    This will make the car very fast.

    not flaming... just being a devil advocate and showing other side of a coin.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

  20. #20
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    I agree, Eugenio_SS, this is a list for drag racers. Although Bob makes it clear in the second paragraph, the title may be misleading.
    Perhaps another sticky for those who prefer to go around corners versus those who prefer to stay in a (somewhat) straight line?
    As to #9, I would have to agree. I have one, it looks cool, but I noticed no difference in handling.
    Last edited by koolaid_kid; 07-10-2006 at 05:04 PM.

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