Help Troubleshoot Suspension

**jpn8801** · 03-16-2012, 10:10 PM

When driving 55mph the steering wheel shimmy's back and forth with a slight bounce in the rear. At 65+ same shimmy in steering wheel but rear end bounces a lot more.

At 55+ whenever I turn slight right or change lanes I get a vibration sound, an intermittent Whirring over and over coming from the front end as well as vibration in the steering wheel.

What I have noticed when looking under the car is 1 of the 4 rims have 3 weights while the others have 1 as well as my LCA bushings needing replacement.

Could the bounce be from a bent rim due to wheel balance? Could the LCA bushings contribute or be the cause of this rear end bouncing?

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-17-2012, 02:40 PM

both. You may have thrown a weight off the wheel and it combine with the bad bushings cause what you are describing. I would also check the tire rod and ball joints to see if they bad too.

**Knight** · 03-17-2012, 03:07 PM

Agree with Scott.

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-17-2012, 03:51 PM

I had one weight come off with my 96. took 2 weeks to figure it out. Drove me nuts because all the bushings and joints were good.

**Knight** · 03-17-2012, 07:45 PM

Same here. It's one of the last things you'd think of, too. Lol.

**0rion** · 03-18-2012, 12:53 AM

the steering wheel movement could be a few things really. Does anything change when you hit the brakes? Does the shimmy or noise get better or worse? You could have those tires checked for balance because that very well may be your issue but by far one of the most common issues with these cars are warped rotors. How many miles on your rotors and brakes in general and are you hard on the brakes? How many miles are on your shocks?

**Smittro** · 03-18-2012, 05:35 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

the steering wheel movement could be a few things really. Does anything change when you hit the brakes? Does the shimmy or noise get better or worse? You could have those tires checked for balance because that very well may be your issue but by far one of the most common issues with these cars are warped rotors. How many miles on your rotors and brakes in general and are you hard on the brakes? How many miles are on your shocks?

Add seized calipar pins to possible causes.. When my 01 calipar pins seized up it quickly warped my rotors, then it acted exactly as the OP described.
Up to that point it stopped and rolled without problem, I changed brakes numerous times not even thinking about those pins.
Seemed to happen quickly after 3-4 days of rain and the car sitting out side in it. Started with a slight indication of a warped rotor and again quickly got worse, say less than a week.

When your brakes get that bad it can/will start taking it's toll on your wheel bearings, worst case wipe them out.

The rear could be the same problem, and/or like Orion states something with the dampers.

**jpn8801** · 03-18-2012, 03:12 PM

Its not the rotors, wish it was that easy... I hit the brakes and smoothness

The shimmy goes away when i hit the brakes.

**jpn8801** · 03-18-2012, 03:13 PM

They are the original shocks, DeCarbons... I have 78,xxx miles on them.

**jpn8801** · 03-18-2012, 03:25 PM

Since my LCA bushings are shot I was going to get the aftermarket UMI Dual Roto-Joint ones (Non Adjustable) Does anyone have these or have heard good or bad things about them? They are a bit expensive and dont want to get them if they are not worth a S*%#. I will go down to a shop and have them balance my wheels, See.. the car had been sitting in a garage for a little over a year and even before i left it, the rear end did that bouncing bs. I really hope it is as simple as a balance.

About the tie rod end (Passenger Side) I was told from a shop (that was too lazy to adjust the caster and only adjusted the camber and said it was aligned) That my tie rod end was shot, I went to another shop here recently that checked it and said it was good. I bought the part before so i'm just going to install it anyway.. what the hell? (sigh) I'ts just too damn frusterating you know? These mom & pop shops just want to screw you, take your money and be well! Isn't there anyone who knows what the're doing and is honest anymore? Pisses me off.

***SMWS6TA*** · 03-19-2012, 01:13 PM

I can't speck about the non adjustable LCA's but the on car adjustable ones are gravy....... I have quite a bit of UMI products on my car and have not been dissatisfied with anything yet. Well besides not having all of the suspension completed yet

**35th-ANV-SS** · 03-19-2012, 09:31 PM

I would start with getting the wheels balanced

**siggs229** · 05-06-2012, 01:05 AM

Originally Posted by jpn8801

Since my LCA bushings are shot I was going to get the aftermarket UMI Dual Roto-Joint ones (Non Adjustable) Does anyone have these or have heard good or bad things about them? They are a bit expensive and dont want to get them if they are not worth a S*%#. I will go down to a shop and have them balance my wheels, See.. the car had been sitting in a garage for a little over a year and even before i left it, the rear end did that bouncing bs. I really hope it is as simple as a balance.

About the tie rod end (Passenger Side) I was told from a shop (that was too lazy to adjust the caster and only adjusted the camber and said it was aligned) That my tie rod end was shot, I went to another shop here recently that checked it and said it was good. I bought the part before so i'm just going to install it anyway.. what the hell? (sigh) I'ts just too damn frusterating you know? These mom & pop shops just want to screw you, take your money and be well! Isn't there anyone who knows what the're doing and is honest anymore? Pisses me off.

Yes you have to be careful about who you have work on your car. There are a lot of assholes out there

You should start by going out and buying a good repair manual so you can become familiar with the car and all the parts. If you know what your talking about they might not be so quick to try and rip you off. Post on here for someone in your area for help on finding a place. Also try other forums. Find other people who have the same car as you or are into cars somebody has to know of a reputable shop. Go to big chain shop and have them look over your car for free. Act like your going to have them fix it for you. There are a ton of places that will look over your care and give you a free estimate. Then see how is it is to do it yourself depending what it is. You have to get an alignment if you change the tie rods. Your shocks most likely are shot and probably all of the bushing too. You car is 12 years old and almost has 80,000 miles on it. And I would definitely check the ball joints in the front end. Moog makes very heavy duty ball joints. If you going to replace something my motto is why put the same lame stock part back when you can buy something better. I have Sphon LCA with spherical rod ends in the back of mine. Don't get them the ride is way to rough for the street. I would get adjustable ones so if you ever want to lower the car you don't have to buy new ones. Why don't you swap the tires from the front to the back and see what happens ? One last thing dont forget to check the motor mounts and transmission mounts too. My tranny mount ripped in half when I only had 3,500 miles on mine.

Rob