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08-17-2005, 02:33 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Indianapolis, IN
- Age
- 41
- Posts
- 128
Silver- 2002 Trans Am WS6
Help!!! Huge problem with lowered car!
I lowered my '02 Trans Am about 5000 miles ago with the Eibach Pro-Kit springs and KYB AGX shocks and struts. The car is at the dealership now with a completely blown rear-end with a $2000 repair bill. They are claiming that since I lowered the car and didn't adjust the pinion angle that the repairs shouldn't be covered by the warranty. I called all over town, because I've never had to change the pinion angle on a car that was lowered only 1.5", and every shop told me that it wasn't necessary unless there was vibration.
I was hoping for any advice you guys could give me, I don't want to spend $2000 on the factory piece of crap rear end!
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08-17-2005, 02:53 PM #2
I always wondered about this myself as this would make sense.
I am wondering that is why relocation brackets for the Lower Control Arms are neccessary.
This is the first time I have heard of this when lowering the vehicle (needing to adjust the angle of the pinion .. can one?).
Also I think the warranty people are definetly trying to rip you off as they always will try to do.
Finally, being this is an inferior rearend it may have already been "loose" and the lowering kit helped it along to its demise.
Can't wait to hear from the pro's here on this one as in the future I will be lowering mine and certainly would like to do whatever I can to avoid this serious issue.
Last edited by eddierox; 08-17-2005 at 02:56 PM.
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08-19-2005, 10:54 PM #3
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- Aug 2005
- Location
- Ohio
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- 38
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- 583
Black- 97 Formula
The pinion angle deals with the torque arm, not the lower control arms. I don't see how a torque arm can destroy a rearend. You need to use an adjustable-torque arm if you lower the car. It is also highly suggested to use an adjustable panhard bar[ to keep the rear axel centered] and lower control arm relocation brackets to put the LCA's back in the proper position.
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08-21-2005, 06:34 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2002
- Location
- Montreal, CANADA
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 3,190
triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
for 2k$, tell them to f***-off and get a real rear-end.
Apart from that, go see another dealer.Eugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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08-21-2005, 07:17 AM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Texas Department of Corrections
- Posts
- 18,128
- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Now your in my dirt pile
The Magnuson-Moss Act clearly states the responsibility is the dealers to prove a modification caused damage thereby voiding a warranty....now those are my words....in other words...the dealer must prove that by you lowering your car it caused the rear end to go out...if he cannot...he must warranty the repairs....here is the Magnuson-Moss Act...you maybe need to introduce your service adviser to it
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm
http://www.magnusonproducts.com/magnusonmoss.htm
and for the record I agree 100% with Mr. Warbird... I don't see how a torque arm can destroy a rear end...I sure wish your service folks could explain the geometric rational of that statement to me!
I would write/email the shop/supplier that provided the parts to you...have them clearly state these parts/modifications in no way can cause rear end damage...I would further Google to find like makes and models of cars with rear end problems....call GM Service and ask for the service records and all Service Bulletins or Tech Bulletins that cover the rear end for your specific car.....we'll get there...let me know....Last edited by Sarge; 08-21-2005 at 07:33 AM.
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08-21-2005, 08:44 AM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Earth
- Age
- 47
- Posts
- 3,365
414 RWHP 395 RWTQ- 00 Black Ram Air Trans Am
Get a Moser 12 bolt and screw them.
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08-28-2005, 11:48 AM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- houston
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 18
PEWTER- 2001 Z28
If it's under warrantee, they will continue to try to blame you. Keep on thier ass. Tell them to show you in writing where the repair can't be covered. The BBB is another avenue you might want to consider.
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08-29-2005, 08:00 PM #8JGAGuest
Hi
Get a drive line protractor (plastic ones are cheep and good enough) and take it into the dealer and ask them to measure the angle. If it is out of spec, then they can refuse your warrantee, but it may not be. I believe lowering the car should give you a slightly more positive pinion angle, but it could still be well within spec. As per Sarge above, they need to demonstate the angle is out of published GM specification. This is the first thing I would ask them to show you.
If ultimately you do not get warrantee and you haven't already committted to the repair, then take your car else where, even if you have to pay the towing. Dealers are expensive. You can get Motive performance Gears, Detroit TrueTrak, TA Girdle and synthetic oil for probably about $1300 and have $700 left over for an adjustable torque arm, panhard rod and LCA brackets. You can also change you gear ratio if you like.
Thinks of it as an opportunity and not a lose. I know it feels shitty when mishaps occure with your car. I just purchased a Spohn adjustable torque arm which is advertised to fit without any welding or modifications. Well it doeas not clear the stock Y pipe. It cost me over $500 to import it into Canada and about $200 labor screwing around with the shop, only to find it it doeas not fit. I web site I purchased it from will not help me out. I am stuck with it. Spohn denies ever having this issue.
I hope this helps. JA
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