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First Rear Suspension Mod.

This is a discussion on First Rear Suspension Mod. within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Hi all, Ok, what should be the first rear suspension mod. to help make the stock rear last longer? thanks!...

  1. #1
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    First Rear Suspension Mod.

    Hi all,
    Ok, what should be the first rear suspension mod. to help make the stock rear last longer?
    thanks!
    2000 Z28 M6 125,XXX: SLP lid, K&N, 10.4mm Taylor plug wires, Frost Tune, P&P TB, NGK Iridium plugs, Magnaflow Cat back, BMR SFC's and tower brace, TSP LT's and ORY, LS6 intake, MAC Girdle, UMI LCA's and Panhard, LS7 Clutch Kit, so far..

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Your very first suspension modification should be sub-frame connectors.

    IMO - the only thing that will help your stock rear end not blow up is a) slippery tires and b) a light foot.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    A new rear end! lol! That'll really help your rear end last longer! Subframe connectors are the best way to start IMO. Shocks and springs too. But it never stops with one mod. Once you start you just keep going.
    It's not how fast you can go. It's how fast you can get there.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    I have SFC's already, it has a regular differential, no posi, in it so im hoping it will last a little longer.. Torque arm, Lower control arms or what?
    Last edited by lsgunner28; 02-17-2010 at 03:46 PM.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    I have SFC's already, it has a regular differential, no posi, in it so im hoping it will last a little longer.. Torque arm of Lower control arms or what?
    LCA's and a TA will both give you more traction and plant more power to the ground.

    LCAs will be less expensive on their own, but you need to also get relocation brackets to get the full benefit of using LCAs.

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    A good posi - like a detroit trutrac - would actually help some. I blew 2 stock carriers in mine before upgrading to a detroit trutrac (before switching rearends altogether). The carrier held - the gears did not - three teeth on the pinion and four on the ring. The carriers can't hold up to a lot, so switching it out to a better one could keep you rolling on stock longer. Or by rearend did you mean the carrier itself?

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight View Post
    A good posi - like a detroit trutrac - would actually help some. I blew 2 stock carriers in mine before upgrading to a detroit trutrac (before switching rearends altogether). The carrier held - the gears did not - three teeth on the pinion and four on the ring. The carriers can't hold up to a lot, so switching it out to a better one could keep you rolling on stock longer. Or by rearend did you mean the carrier itself?
    yeah, whatever the weak point is, make it last as long as possible.
    Last edited by lsgunner28; 02-17-2010 at 04:40 PM.

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    yeah, whatever the week point is, make it last as long as possible.
    The weak point on this is 7 days long....

    On a more serious note the less it wheel hops the easier it is on the whole assembly. SFC's will help keep the frame and car straight allowing it to plant better. An adjustable body mount (to get it off of the tranny - this also should have a DS loop) torque arm will allow you to adjust the pinion angle to keep it from wheel hopping.

    Relocation brackets and/or LCA's will help with getting the pinion angle back where it belongs if the car is lowered (mine isn't).

    My car is an A4 with 3400 stall and 3.73 gears. With MT DR's it does 1.73 60' all day (I know I can get it quicker - just gotta practice more) and (if I don't wind up the stall to high) is a dead hook off the line.

    Next thing I'm gonna try is a solid spacer in place of the crush sleeve to keep it from whinning.

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    Just me Y2KPewterSS's Avatar
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    Typically, LCAs are the first rear suspension mod people will do after SFCs. Then on to panhard and torque arm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    My car is an A4 with 3400 stall and 3.73 gears. With MT DR's it does 1.73 60' all day (I know I can get it quicker - just gotta practice more) and (if I don't wind up the stall to high) is a dead hook off the line.

    Next thing I'm gonna try is a solid spacer in place of the crush sleeve to keep it from whinning.

    What rear do you run?

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    What rear do you run?
    The stocker 7.5". Originally was a 2.73 with Torsen. Traded that for a 3.42 with Auburn. Now 3.73 with Torsen.

    I burned out 2 Auburn's and broke a set of used 3.42's. I've replaced the crush sleeve 2X due to it being crushed even further (because of the way it hooks). Next up: Solid bushing.

    Like everybody told me I should have went straight to a 12 bolt. Next time something breaks...

    The 02 is just my cruiser/track car, it's not my DD. That's what the 98 is for.
    Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 02-17-2010 at 07:57 PM.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    The stocker 7.5". Originally was a 2.73 with Torsen. Traded that for a 3.42 with Auburn. Now 3.73 with Torsen.

    I burned out 2 Auburn's and broke a set of used 3.42's. I've replaced the crush sleeve 2X due to it being crushed even further (because of the way it hooks).
    so you just bought a different carrier? how long has it been holding up?

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    so you just bought a different carrier? how long has it been holding up?
    The Torsen has been holding up fine for almost a year now. My issue is with gear whine. Last year when I put the Torsen in I went with Richmond 3.73's. They whined. Swapped to AAM gears and they were quite enough for me (some barely audible whine on decel but not enought to matter). Now after 8 months of a min 2X/month racing (Friday night at Firebird and/or Saturday at Speed World - sometimes both) the gears are making noise. I replaced the crush sleeve and it went away but then returned. I attribute this to the crush sleeve being displaced due to the MT's being a real grippy tire (dead hook on launch after heating them up) so I'm gonna try out a solid bushing next and see how that works.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS View Post
    The Torsen has been holding up fine for almost a year now. Swapped to AAM gears and they were quite enough for me (some barely audible whine on decel but not enought to matter). Now after 8 months of a min 2X/month racing (Friday night at Firebird and/or Saturday at Speed World - sometimes both) the gears are making noise. so I'm gonna try out a solid bushing next and see how that works.
    So do you think a Torsen carrier and AAM gears would hold up in a DD? and the what Torsen carrier? or is it the stocker?

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    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    So do you think a Torsen carrier and AAM gears would hold up in a DD? and the what Torsen carrier? or is it the stocker?
    It was a stock Torsen that my buddy had. I believe these came in 2001/2 F-bodies (maybe 2000? Not sure on that). The AAM (American Axle & Manufacturing) gears are (suposed to be) the stock GM gears.

    As both of these are "stock" items I don't see why they couldn't work for a DD.

    FYI: The 02 is not (although it could be) a daily driver for me. I have a 98 Z28 (stock down to the air filter) for that job.

    FWIW: I had Motive then Richmond 3.73 gears that both whined (after installation and minor adjustment) prior to the AAM gears which didn't whine (at least not enough for me to care at first - it got worse with repeated launches).
    Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 02-18-2010 at 11:06 AM.

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    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    okay, mine is a fair weather DD with 106,xxx miles, and I'm doing mods to free up more power, but I am worried about the rear end because I've read they were weak. I want to make it last as long as possible.

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    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    okay, mine is a fair weather DD with 106,xxx miles, and I'm doing mods to free up more power, but I am worried about the rear end because I've read they were weak. I want to make it last as long as possible.
    switch out the axels........

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    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    Hi all,
    Ok, what should be the first rear suspension mod. to help make the stock rear last longer?
    thanks!
    mac rear end gurdle (cover)...i have one, no problems with the diff. since

    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2116

  19. #19
    Member lsgunner28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by godless-phoenix View Post
    mac rear end gurdle (cover)...i have one, no problems with the diff. since

    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2116
    did you have problems with it before?

  20. #20
    Member godless-phoenix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsgunner28 View Post
    did you have problems with it before?
    yeah, before i had bought the mac gurdle, i had to get my rear end fixed a couple of times until i convinced the stealership to put it on. my diff. exploded and punched a huge hole in the stock cover and all the oil poured out and my axle locked up on me, it was a nightmare...no problems at all since i put the rear end gurdle on

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