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Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs

This is a discussion on Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Are these any good? and can they fit with all the stock components...

  1. #1
    Junior Member MRM 01's Avatar
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    Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs

    Are these any good? and can they fit with all the stock components

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    pewter
    2001 z28 lingenfelter 383

    strano springs are more my cup a tea......and NO they wont work with all stock components.......your stock POS shocks cant keep up with lowering springs........youll need to upgrade the shocks when u do springs.....koni's would be best but u can get away with revalved bilsteins ( for the 200 more id go with koni's) and adj pan hard rod would also likely be recommended to line your rear back up after lowering........cost me about 1200 for teh whole set up.....installed myself.......my fav mod ....looks amazing and the ride/handling is incredible

  3. #3
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    no, as a result of lowering the stock springs wont be ideal to handle the lowered car. can you use the stock springs, yes, but it makes for a very loose, bouncy ride going over bumps, inclines, etc. ideally youd replace the shocks since you're already messing with the springs...

    you would need at minimum:

    LCA relocation brackets
    Adjustable Panhard Bar
    Set of shocks to compliment the lowering springs

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    no, as a result of lowering the stock springs wont be ideal to handle the lowered car. can you use the stock springs, yes, but it makes for a very loose, bouncy ride going over bumps, inclines, etc. ideally youd replace the shocks since you're already messing with the springs...

    you would need at minimum:

    LCA relocation brackets
    Adjustable Panhard Bar
    Set of shocks to compliment the lowering springs
    sammy strano says the lca's and apb are NOT nessesary in every application......have to lower your car first and see if your in need of them.....i have no traction or hopping issues so the lca's wernt nessesary....my rear was definitly way off center though so i picked up the UMI adj phr

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    '12 Silver SS 1SS
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyjnjz View Post
    sammy strano says the lca's and apb are NOT nessesary in every application......have to lower your car first and see if your in need of them.....i have no traction or hopping issues so the lca's wernt nessesary....my rear was definitly way off center though so i picked up the UMI adj phr
    LCA relocation brackets, since the angle the LCA's are once a vehicle is lowered deals with the centering (forward/rearward placement of the rearend in the wheel-well)...

    im not saying he needs new LCA's at all, not what i said...

    Adj PH Rod for centering of the rear end left/right under the car...

    i needed the Adj PH Rod, and relo-brackets to correct the geometry of the rear-end for my car...

    i find it surprising you didnt need relo-brackets for your car...

  6. #6
    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    Set of shocks to compliment the lowering springs
    Are these shocks shorter so the rear wheels don't rest on the bump stops when on a chassis lift? That's the situation I have with my 315's. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I am talking about finding a method to hold the rear-end up from the bump stops with wide wheels. I have stock shocks but they droop enough for this to be a problem [when the rear is airborne].

  7. #7
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    you need to grind your bumbstops with 315's. do a search there is a thread about it with pic's for a step by step that is good.

  8. #8
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01 T/A View Post
    you need to grind your bumbstops with 315's. do a search there is a thread about it with pic's for a step by step that is good.
    only if you go 315's other than Nitto's. i have 315/35/17 Nitto DR's on the rear and I have no bump stop issues. However, we all know that Nitto's run narrower than other brands 315's...

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    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSwt00SS View Post
    only if you go 315's other than Nitto's. i have 315/35/17 Nitto DR's on the rear and I have no bump stop issues. However, we all know that Nitto's run narrower than other brands 315's...
    this is tru i was just trying to help vexzer with his issue. i dont have to worre about it yet i still have the pos stockers on my ta. and they just suck.

  10. #10
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    Let me clear some things up:

    LCA's are not required to lower a car.

    LCA Relocation brackets are NOT required to lower a car. My car is lowered and does not have them. In fact all 5 of my National Championships have been in pony-cars that were lowered and did not have brackets. It's not true everyone needs them. Sometimes we use them, depending on the purpose, but more often than not for handling we do not.

    I run 315's and have my bumpstops on (and unmodified). Again, a myth you need to cut them down or out. Wheel offset matters, but they only touch when the axle is at full droop which is not something that happens anywhere but on jacks.

    And finally, the length of the shock does not change, nor does it effect when you contact the bumpstops in the rear.

    All you *NEED* to lower are springs. What you want to lower the car and have it drive right are a good matched set of springs, shocks and an adjustable Panhard bar, nothing else is required. Might be warranted in some cases, or wanted in others, but in no way is anything else to be considered a must have.
    Sam Strano
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  11. #11
    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    Let me clear some things up:
    I run 315's and have my bumpstops on (and unmodified). Again, a myth you need to cut them down or out. Wheel offset matters, but they only touch when the axle is at full droop which is not something that happens anywhere but on jacks.

    And finally, the length of the shock does not change, nor does it effect when you contact the bumpstops in the rear.
    Thanks for chiming in Sam. I really appreciate comments from someone who makes their living at this, I just wish I had that opportunity.

    But. I AM concerned about the axle when it gets to full droop. Sometimes when cresting hills and pitches on these hill-country roads you can get awfully light [air-born].

    I was hoping someone knew of a shorter shock absorber that could keep the axle from dropping to where the bumpstops contact the rear wheel. Mine DO contact the wheel at full droop, and it looks like it could easily break a wheel or cut a tire.

    If you have a appropriate shorter shock for the application, please say so and I'll call your shop with my order.

  12. #12
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    i have sean people use chanes or stapes to limit axal dope on 4x4's i dont know if it would work on one of are cars but it may be some thing to look in to. what do you think sam?

  13. #13
    What Would Earl Do? Vexzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01 T/A View Post
    i have seen people use chains or straps to limit axle drop on 4x4's i don't know if it would work on one of our cars but it may be something to look into. what do you think sam?
    Thanks for the hint.
    I've owned cars with limiting straps and was thinking of that, but there's only sheet metal to attach to and it would not be very elegant. I was hoping for a manufactured solution.

  14. #14
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    thats what i was thinking to but wasnt sure let me know what you find to fix the issue

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    fwiw... I don't have LCA relocation either.
    I recommend getting good shocks though.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

  16. #16
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    All you *NEED* to lower are springs. What you want to lower the car and have it drive right are a good matched set of springs, shocks and an adjustable Panhard bar, nothing else is required. Might be warranted in some cases, or wanted in others, but in no way is anything else to be considered a must have.
    this should be plastered in size 20 font on the top of the suspension page.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    this should be plastered in size 20 font on the top of the suspension page.
    haha +1

  18. #18
    Member ghettosled's Avatar
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    1999 camaro ss #4288

    i have the pro-kit installed (along with adj PHB) but still use the stock shocks. the car is driveable, but new shocks would be preferred for better handling and less jarring.

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