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differences in the Konis

This is a discussion on differences in the Konis within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I am trying to put together a budget for my 93 LT1 and need to upgrade my suspension and I ...

  1. #1

    differences in the Konis

    I am trying to put together a budget for my 93 LT1 and need to upgrade my suspension and I am debating between the Koni's and the KYB AGXs.

    The question I have is what are the differences between the Koni 4/3 and the Koni 4/4 in terms of adjustment? I know the 4/3 has internal adjustment and the 4/4 has external but are they similar settings and is the 4/3 any harder to adjust then the 4/4?

    I know everyone says buy Konis they are the best......but for a car I only drive around 5k miles a year (no racing, just cruising) I think the KYBs might be more economically feasible...

  2. #2
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    On the 4/3's the rear shocks must be removed to make an adjustment, The 4/4's are on car adjustable.
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    I'm not at all sure how the fact you drive the car 5k miles a year effects how the shocks perform....

    4/3 rears have only 4 positions: full soft, +20, +50, +100% rebound. The 4/4's go full soft to +100% as well, but you can also get anywhere in between you like. Want something between 20 and 50? You can get it. And you do it in seconds on the car vs. taking them off.

    The KYB's adjust on the car, but on the side of the shock (under the car). And the adjustment is not in any way the same in the way it works or how it effects the way the car drives. They cost less because they are just cheaper and less refined. Kind of like buying an engine that has decent parts, but is just bolted together vs. one that is balanced, blueprinted and dyno tuned.
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    [QUOTE=Sam Strano;1237529]I'm not at all sure how the fact you drive the car 5k miles a year effects how the shocks perform....QUOTE]

    I believe he is saying it affects (not effects) his pocket book and he is probably looking for something that improves his handling without costing him an arm.

  5. #5
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    That's fine, but that has nothing to do with the amount of miles run per year. Saying that the mileage matters is like saying you won't buy any tire more than $75 for your drag race car because you make 100 passes a year which is only 25 miles (50 if you count the return road). Do you give up drag radial or slick performance? I don't think so.

    You get what you pay for. If you don't really care that much, then get cheap stuff. But then why not buy an Aveo and instead of a f-body? I'm guessing because performance matters.

  6. #6
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    interesting findings.

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