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bolt in subframe connectors or sway bars?

This is a discussion on bolt in subframe connectors or sway bars? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I unbolted my 3 points today. when I first lowered my car the sfc's dragged up and down driveways. since ...

  1. #21
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    I unbolted my 3 points today. when I first lowered my car the sfc's dragged up and down driveways. since then I put bigger wheels on which solved the problem so I unbolted them today so I could primer and paint the areas where the paint was scraped off.

    I'm glad they were not welded......

  2. #22
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I would get the UMI sway bars for the price.since my lca, panhard bar, and strut bar are all UMI and are great if they had sway bats when I.got mine I would have got them instead of the spohn and saved money. Sway bats and sfc's for $500 is a good deal. All I need is the front UMI upper and lower and sfc's and all the stock suspension will finally be gone.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
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  3. #23
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    so basically who can vouch that BOLT IN 2 point SCF's make a noticeable handling difference?

  4. #24
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    so basically who can vouch that BOLT IN 2 point SCF's make a noticeable handling difference?
    all I can tell you is that bolt in 3 points made a noticeable difference so I would say that the 2 points would still stiffen up the car despite them not being welded

  5. #25
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    with my 3 point SFCs.......i am no longer afraid or railroad crossings

  6. #26
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    I would go weld in only....but that is just me.

    And yes....you WILL feel a difference in the car. Much tighter feel.

  7. #27
    Life In The Fast Lane..!! redracer1's Avatar
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    Brickyard 400 Trac Car#10
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    #1 Shocks
    #2 Springs
    #3 Sway Bars
    ^^Always Do these first^^

    All other mods support the above....lca's, stb, sfc, etc..

  8. #28
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    You can always weld the bolt-on version in at a later date if you want. Same thing, one just has slots and holes cut and hardware supplied

  9. #29
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    2 things:

    1)Does anyone have pictures of the 2 point UMI SFC's installed on their car where I could see what it looks like on the car? I've seen some SFC's where they hang down way too low and are unappealing IMO. I think the UMI's will be ok but if anyone has pics, please show me.

    2)How difficult is it to install the front sway bar?

    The rear should be a piece of cake with 2 ramps but i'm kind of worried about installing the front one. I would maybe have to have a shop do it?

  10. #30
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I have the BMR 2-pt SFC welded in. You cannot see them at all from the side of the car if you are standing up. It you crawl down, you can barely see the bottom portion of the box. I would assume the UMI's are the same. I don't know about the tubular design.

  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    2 things:

    1)Does anyone have pictures of the 2 point UMI SFC's installed on their car where I could see what it looks like on the car? I've seen some SFC's where they hang down way too low and are unappealing IMO. I think the UMI's will be ok but if anyone has pics, please show me.

    2)How difficult is it to install the front sway bar?

    The rear should be a piece of cake with 2 ramps but i'm kind of worried about installing the front one. I would maybe have to have a shop do it?
    Hello,

    If you go with our tubular set up they will not hang down at all or be seen from the side of the vehicle. They tuck up extremely tight. The boxed version will hang about 3/8" below the pinch weld under the door can be seen slightly if you go with red in color. Here is a picture of our 3-Point SFC's from the side- http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...2003ac_LRG.jpg

    The sway bar installation is pretty straight forward and doesn't require any special tools or tricks. The front is a little tricky due to the sway bar size but fits in there nicely.

    If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
    Ryan

  12. #32
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Performance View Post
    Hello,

    If you go with our tubular set up they will not hang down at all or be seen from the side of the vehicle. They tuck up extremely tight. The boxed version will hang about 3/8" below the pinch weld under the door can be seen slightly if you go with red in color. Here is a picture of our 3-Point SFC's from the side- http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...2003ac_LRG.jpg

    The sway bar installation is pretty straight forward and doesn't require any special tools or tricks. The front is a little tricky due to the sway bar size but fits in there nicely.

    If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
    Ryan

    thanks for the picture! I figured the UMI ones would be alright. I think I will purchase the SFC in spring or if they go on sale during winter and give them a shot.. then in the future i'll put on sway bars

  13. #33
    Member xmarkx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    2 things:

    1)Does anyone have pictures of the 2 point UMI SFC's installed on their car where I could see what it looks like on the car? I've seen some SFC's where they hang down way too low and are unappealing IMO. I think the UMI's will be ok but if anyone has pics, please show me.

    2)How difficult is it to install the front sway bar?

    The rear should be a piece of cake with 2 ramps but i'm kind of worried about installing the front one. I would maybe have to have a shop do it?
    the only hard part about the front bar is getting the bolt through the bushings and getting the nut on. at first it apears that the bolt is too short but you have to find some way to compress everything to get the nuts on the end links

  14. #34
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmarkx View Post
    the only hard part about the front bar is getting the bolt through the bushings and getting the nut on. at first it apears that the bolt is too short but you have to find some way to compress everything to get the nuts on the end links
    thanks, i will take note of this.

  15. #35
    Life In The Fast Lane..!! redracer1's Avatar
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    also don't over tighten the top nuts on the end links, you'll just compress the bushings.

  16. #36
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redracer1 View Post
    also don't over tighten the top nuts on the end links, you'll just compress the bushings.
    thanks!

  17. #37
    Si Vis Pacem, Para Bellum 2002_LS1's Avatar
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    I'm definitely going to look into getting the 2-pt SFC welded as soon as my other projects are done!

  18. #38
    Member 02ragtop t/a's Avatar
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    $.02 injection. I have the BMR weld-ins on my 'vert. Before the sfc's, my car would flex and bend just going over a damn speed bump. After the install, the car practically lifts a wheel going over a s/b or in and out of a steep driveway. You can just barely see the sfc from behind the car and not at all from the side unless you're laying on your back. You will probably not notice the same amount of stiffening effect that I did 'cause of your t-tops, but you WILL feel a difference.

  19. #39
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02ragtop t/a View Post
    $.02 injection. I have the BMR weld-ins on my 'vert. Before the sfc's, my car would flex and bend just going over a damn speed bump. After the install, the car practically lifts a wheel going over a s/b or in and out of a steep driveway. You can just barely see the sfc from behind the car and not at all from the side unless you're laying on your back. You will probably not notice the same amount of stiffening effect that I did 'cause of your t-tops, but you WILL feel a difference.
    thanks for the insight, i hope it makes a difference... i dont see how it couldnt

  20. #40
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    Curious, you seem insistent on 2pt over 3pt. Any particular reason why?

    I've always wondered the difference. Seems like a 3pt would be better for DDs to aid in the cornering, while a 2pt would be good for straight line track. I don't really know though.

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