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  1. #1
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    BMR tunnel brace

    does the BMR tunnel brace help any? worth getting?


    ASh

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    ASh

  2. #2
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    You will not notice a difference imo. Subframe connectors are what tighten up the car and, if you have 3 point SFC's, then the tunnel brace acts as a bridge between the two sides. Honestly, lots of guys just remove the tunnel brace for additional exhaust clearance although it does make for a simple pseudo drive shaft safety loop. On our car, we have the tunnel mount torque arm, so the tunnel brace mounts the front of the torque arm and also the safety loop.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    BMR tunnel brace

    only aftermarket tunnel brace I would recommend is one with a driver saftey loop
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    You will not notice a difference imo. Subframe connectors are what tighten up the car and, if you have 3 point SFC's, then the tunnel brace acts as a bridge between the two sides. Honestly, lots of guys just remove the tunnel brace for additional exhaust clearance although it does make for a simple pseudo drive shaft safety loop. On our car, we have the tunnel mount torque arm, so the tunnel brace mounts the front of the torque arm and also the safety loop.
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    only aftermarket tunnel brace I would recommend is one with a driver saftey loop
    thanks guys, that makes plenty of since with doing one that has the safety loop. 2 birds with one stone type mod
    I only did the 2pt SFC

    ASh
    2002 auto T/A custom blue, Moser 9in rear end with 31 spline axle and 3.73 gears, Diablo Sport InTune, SLP LM1 catback, SLP lid & bellow, ram air free mod, eibach pro kit springs, bilstein hd shocks, bmr rear sway bar, bmr 2pt SFC bolt on, silver checker stripes 17x9.5 C5 Vette rims.

  5. #5
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    so guessing one like this that BMR offers


    ASh

  6. #6
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    That works.

  7. #7
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    Thanks again for the help guys

    ASh

  8. #8
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    The tunnel brace bolts are awful tiny - I thought about modifying things a bit when I installed our 3 point SFC's, but in the end left them alone. Since you have to drop your driveshaft for the install, take a look at the tail stock seal on your transmission. Great time to swap it out if it is weeping at all.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    The tunnel brace bolts are awful tiny - I thought about modifying things a bit when I installed our 3 point SFC's, but in the end left them alone. Since you have to drop your driveshaft for the install, take a look at the tail stock seal on your transmission. Great time to swap it out if it is weeping at all.
    I will have to remember that when I do end up getting this and installing it, what kit do you suggest to use for replacing the seal? would it not have been done when my PST driveshaft was installed?
    I know when the trans go, I want to get a new built trans street friendly, but good for the track when I end up going.
    also planning on doing heads/ cams down the road, either before the motor goes and needs stuff replaced or before.
    I've been thinking about LT's with catted mid-pipe. My only concern right now having SLP LM1, is how loud it is going to be with LT's and catted Y-pipe, which I have thought about going with a LM2 reso, but don't know how much that will help. I have thought about just upgrading to a high flow midpipe or somehow have it dual to a high flow midpipe with stock headers into the SLP LM1 or doing the dual mid-pipe with SLP LM2
    Still some time off for that to happen, got a few more suspension mods I wanting to do LCA's, adj PHB, STB, and tunnel brace safety loop. prob couple other things, but I know those for sure
    all in good time I suppose just got my wheel turning and thinking about this stuff, do want to upgrade the rotors to some nicer performance ones and looking ones, probably upgrade pads at the same time.

    ASh

  10. #10
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    No kit - it is just a simple seal that you can get just about anywhere. They can be a bit tricky to tap in. I always apply a thin coat of Permatex around the outside of the seal before installing it. If it isn't weeping then you can leave it be. Could be 13 years old or so at this point if it is the original and rubber doesn't improve with age.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    No kit - it is just a simple seal that you can get just about anywhere. They can be a bit tricky to tap in. I always apply a thin coat of Permatex around the outside of the seal before installing it. If it isn't weeping then you can leave it be. Could be 13 years old or so at this point if it is the original and rubber doesn't improve with age.
    got you, thanks for the intel

    ASh

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