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Best torque arm to buy?

This is a discussion on Best torque arm to buy? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; nice info...thanks strano ..p.s i will be ordering your lowering springs in a month or so....

  1. #21
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    blacker than wesleysnipes
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    nice info...thanks strano ..p.s i will be ordering your lowering springs in a month or so.

  2. #22
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    Sure thing.... Happy to help.
    Sam Strano
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  3. #23
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, Adj here I come in a month or two.

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    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    thanks for the info guys i think i am going to go with the non adjustable torque arm, since I don't drive the car much and i am just looking for better traction, but I am still a little confused and the lower control arm.....what do they do and what do you recommend with my mods...........
    2000 Arctic White trans am, ws6 hood, ws6 air box, slp lid, slp smooth bellows, slp loudmouth exhaust,shift kit, rebuilt trans, LS6 intake, 3.73 gears, Shaner S3 p/p throttle body, and a tune . SFC. C6 ZO6 rims 18" in back 17" in front. Drilled and slotted rotors.

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    Do you have wheelhop? That's the first thing I'd need to know. Traction comes from tires first, and the planting of those tires next. Do you have good tires? Does the car wheelhop? How badly? All the time? Sometimes?

    I'd love to slap you on the back and say "run this" and many would. I'm not many. Parts do a job, if the job doesn't need done, why spend money on the parts???????

  6. #26
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    Do you have wheelhop? That's the first thing I'd need to know. Traction comes from tires first, and the planting of those tires next. Do you have good tires? Does the car wheelhop? How badly? All the time? Sometimes?

    I'd love to slap you on the back and say "run this" and many would. I'm not many. Parts do a job, if the job doesn't need done, why spend money on the parts???????
    from a dead stop i don't feel any kind of wheel hopping, but there is an awful lot of squeeeeling........

  7. #27
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    sounds like tires to me..

  8. #28
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    sounds like tires to me..
    after they are done squeeling it hooks up just fine............do you suggest just a torque arm then?

  9. #29
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    well i mean your tires will eventually hook..i mean you can try a tq/arm but it might not be needed..but hey what harm would a new torque arm do anyways..i agree with strano where it might just be a tire issue...what tires are you running right now?

  10. #30
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    I have 18 inch rims in the rear and 17 in the front.......and they are nitto ZR1's?? 285/40/18

  11. #31
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    The squealing is the tires spinning. Roughly 10% wheelspin is optimal for acceleration. I know it's not what you want to hear, but while my business is selling parts, my method of operation is to not sell parts that aren't right for the job.

    I don't care how many parts you put on the car, if the tires suck, it won't hook. All that power has to get to the pavement through two tires. TA's, LCA's, are things to help wheelhop, which you don't have. You could run LCA brackets and/or a Torque Arm Relocation kit to move your instant center rearwards, that can help bite, but again if the tires suck it's not going to really help.

    You need some traction to make traction. Think of it this way, the dynamics at play in the dry are not different than in the rain or even in snow or ice. You just have higher limits. If you tried to drive a summer tire on snow, how much traction would you have? Not much. And there are plenty of junk tires out there, even "good" tires that might have good tread, but are old don't hook well as the rubber gets hard (and they tend to squeal more easily and often too). And there's a reason that any kind of tire meant for traction isn't made of steel.

  12. #32
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    The squealing is the tires spinning. Roughly 10% wheelspin is optimal for acceleration. I know it's not what you want to hear, but while my business is selling parts, my method of operation is to not sell parts that aren't right for the job.

    I don't care how many parts you put on the car, if the tires suck, it won't hook. All that power has to get to the pavement through two tires. TA's, LCA's, are things to help wheelhop, which you don't have. You could run LCA brackets and/or a Torque Arm Relocation kit to move your instant center rearwards, that can help bite, but again if the tires suck it's not going to really help.

    You need some traction to make traction. Think of it this way, the dynamics at play in the dry are not different than in the rain or even in snow or ice. You just have higher limits. If you tried to drive a summer tire on snow, how much traction would you have? Not much. And there are plenty of junk tires out there, even "good" tires that might have good tread, but are old don't hook well as the rubber gets hard (and they tend to squeal more easily and often too). And there's a reason that any kind of tire meant for traction isn't made of steel.
    so torque arm won't help and neither will lca's......just look into getting better tires........i am about to get 3.73 installed, should i think about a ta or lca then?.........and what tires do everyone suggest..........

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    Why do 3.73's when you can't hook what you have? More gearing will not help you, you can't hook the power you have now.

    You want traction, buy some sort of drag radial. Try it, go from there.

  14. #34
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    i am a little confuse, maybe you got the wrong info.....i have great traction.....just a little squeeling at the beginning (which I think any high powered V8 has) and then I hook up.......the traction is fine through 2nd and 3rd gear......and all i have heard on here is that 3.73 are one of the best mods to do to an A4.........

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    Isn't this your quote from your first post? "Hey everyone i need to get more traction..."

    I'm trying to help you here, but I'm having a hard time. "Squealing" doesn't in and of itself mean anything. Some tires make more noise than others, but the more you hear the more wheelspin you are getting, period. And of course you have better traction when it hooks, it's hooked. And as you climb gears you lose torque multiplication so of course it's fine in 2nd and 3rd.

    I don't want to sound harsh here, but I think I need to tell you this.... You put parts on to fix a problem. Certain parts do certain jobs. At this point I'm not even sure how good or bad your "traction" is. Do you have 60' times from a drag strip? You haven't told us what tires you are on, and your idea of good traction or bad traction might be totally out to lunch. I can't tell because I have no solid info to work off of.

  16. #36
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    I have 18 inch rims in the rear and 17 in the front.......and they are nitto ZR1's?? 285/40/18
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    Isn't this your quote from your first post? "Hey everyone i need to get more traction..."

    I'm trying to help you here, but I'm having a hard time. "Squealing" doesn't in and of itself mean anything. Some tires make more noise than others, but the more you hear the more wheelspin you are getting, period. And of course you have better traction when it hooks, it's hooked. And as you climb gears you lose torque multiplication so of course it's fine in 2nd and 3rd.

    I don't want to sound harsh here, but I think I need to tell you this.... You put parts on to fix a problem. Certain parts do certain jobs. At this point I'm not even sure how good or bad your "traction" is. Do you have 60' times from a drag strip? You haven't told us what tires you are on, and your idea of good traction or bad traction might be totally out to lunch. I can't tell because I have no solid info to work off of.
    doesn't eveyone want to get more traction with these cars?

  17. #37
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    well this is how i see it..if you burn around 1/4-1/3 through 1st on street tires you are fine...no tire besides a D/R will hook so good that you just "launch"...also worth noting if you do get "better" traction you will run the risk of busting up your 10 bolt...it is natural for us to break the tires loose..thats fine. i break my loose and spin about 1/4 through 1rst with all seasons..but i cut 2.00 60' ..so i have excellent traction for what i have. now 3.73 are indeed a good mod ..but remember..you need to make sure your tires will hold..be them all seasons ..max perf. summer or D/Rs..you will not see better 60' times if you throw 3.73s on. Sooooo cliff notes..your traction is good/normal..dont worry about a t/Arm until you start to experience wheel hop/get a new rear end with 3.73s on it..put your money into something else............p.s i assume you are lowered ? if so it is nice to get lca relocation brackets and adjustable lca to help "re-balance" your suspension

  18. #38
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
    doesn't eveyone want to get more traction with these cars?
    sorta...but within reason...i want more traction yes...but i is not reasonable to wish for 1.68 60' times with all seasons and stock gears/stall...you see what i mean? remember what contacts the pavement

  19. #39
    Senior Member clg82's Avatar
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    i am not lowered because i don't know quite how to lower with my staggered set, i have 17 in the front and 18 in the rear so how do you suggest i lower?

  20. #40
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    grab some strano springs..your tire height should be close to identical anyways ..so it wont matter.

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