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Aftermarket springs

This is a discussion on Aftermarket springs within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Anyone have any input on these? I am running long tubes, so I can't go very low. I am more ...

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    Member fbodynut's Avatar
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    Aftermarket springs

    Anyone have any input on these?
    I am running long tubes, so I can't go very low. I am more after a stiffer spring rate than stance. Are there any stock height springs that offer a stronger rate?

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    Or...

    http://www.lmperformance.com/729/1.html

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    Not aftermarket but you can get stiffer spring rate by finding 1LE take off springs from a legit 1LE optioned car.

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    Member fbodynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SexOnWheels View Post
    Not aftermarket but you can get stiffer spring rate by finding 1LE take off springs from a legit 1LE optioned car.
    Do you think these might be available through GM? How much stiffer are they?
    Like corvette stiff? Or somewhere more than stock, but not crazy hard.

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    Are you looking for more rate because the car is too spongy and floppy? If so, that's your shocks more than the spring rate. 1LE springs are discontinued, and while stiffer it doens't make for a better handling car. I raced against (and sometimes in) 1LE's for years, when I ordered my car, I got a standard car. More SCCA National Event (including the National Championships) have been won in NON-1LE cars than in 1LE's.

    The Summit springs are junk. People have called and been told different rates, and some of the quoted rates are Pro-kits rates. Somone installed some on another forum and the car was decked.

    The SLP springs aren't too bad. I sell those as well (I'm an SLP dealer too). But again I think you have a bigger damping issue than spring issue. A car with stock springs and Koni's is easier to drive faster than a car with SLP springs AND SLP Bilstein's together. It also rides a bit better, but with more control and the ability to effect the roll and pitch rate (and therefore weight transfer if you drag race) of the car.
    Sam Strano
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    Owner--Strano Performance Parts
    814-849-3450

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    Member fbodynut's Avatar
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    Hey Sam,
    Spongy is a good description. About half way through a longer turn(exit ramp type as opposed to a 90 degree), the car tends to do what I call settle or bottom in the suspension travel. And this just totally screws with me. I have had a 99 vette, and a 78 T/A. I could push both of these cars to the breaking loose point, and then control the rear with a little pedal and steer. Now I know this isn't the quickest way around a turn, but it is fun.
    I knew when they would go and things would remain stable when they did. With this one, if I throw it around a turn to make the rear swing out it will break loose, compress, bite and then I'm heading somewhere I don't want to go.

    I can feel the suspension compress noticeably in a turn. I do understand the suspension has to work, or compress to give the car traction going into and comming out of turns. I just don't like this much of it. I know how I want it to handle, just not quite sure how to get it there. So I am open to suggestions.

    ps. I read the Jan. issue of GM High-Tech, and wondered if you were the same Strano mentioned.

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    You described classic damping issues, you need shocks--not springs. You could add springs at the same time, but that's your call and the stock springs are not what's causing your issue. By the way, GREAT description. That just makes me all the more positive that's your primary problem.

    And the GMHTP stuff, that's me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    You described classic damping issues, you need shocks--not springs. You could add springs at the same time, but that's your call and the stock springs are not what's causing your issue. By the way, GREAT description. That just makes me all the more positive that's your primary problem.

    And the GMHTP stuff, that's me.
    i agree with sam 100% because i'm having the same damn problem... my car was lowered about 3 years ago but i was to lazy to swap out the stock shocks (now my car has 82,xxx miles!!!) and the shocks took a shit on me... i hit a bump in the road and i feel like i'm out at sea...

    i ordered KYB, AXG shocks from sam... i've heard good things about these from teh people who have them... they only thing they don't like is that they are not rebuildable... but i don't give a shit cause by the time i have to replace them i'll more tahn likely have replaced the car...

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    Member fbodynut's Avatar
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    Thanks Sam,
    That will save me some $$ if i don't really need the springs.
    So what other purpose does changing the springs serve?...Besides just lowering the center of gravity? I get the benies of that.

    But is there any dampening benifit there at all?

    I have even thought of lowering down just the rear for a more level stance, but did not want to screw up the handling. I'm sure you picked up on it by now, cornering and high speed handling is my concern, not 1/4 mile times.

    I noticed in the GM High tech article, there was no mention of subframe connectors, or strut brace?? Is that to come? Do you think those two things really improve handling that much?

    Thanks for the help

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    Springs don't damp, shocks damp the suspension. Lower Cg, more roll and pitch rate. Car rolls less, but also does that with bigger bars and they ride better. Of course both springs and bars roll the least (and no roll at all is bad, fwiw).

    No mention of SFC's because my car doesn't have 'em, their car already did. Not bad things, but not handling items. No mention of STB because I found no difference to speak of with one, but others report huge changes. Age of the car, and if it's been hit have a lot of effect on this.

    Everything I've won in my car has been without SFC's or a STB. The STB has always been legal for me to use. SFC's are legal for '08, but I'm not sure I'll bother yet--also not sure if I won't. Car is fast without them, do I want to add weight. Jacking rails would be nice, and the car has been in an accident and just hasn't been as good feeling since. I'll probably add them because of the poke and while the frame is straight, the tolerance is some 5mm (which is damned near 1/4") and it's not like it was before. It won a Championship like that, going away in '06, 3 weeks out of the body shop so it's not like sucks.

    There are no absolutes. The article didn't menton a TA, which I run. We used one type of Koni rears on their car, but we also use a different type (2 actually) for other reasons. Bottom line is I just put them on what I felt was best for their use. That was determined over the course of a long conversation, which I have with all my customers if they want my input. They can all order online if they know what they want and don't care what I think.

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