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Aftermarket Lower A-Arm question...

This is a discussion on Aftermarket Lower A-Arm question... within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Is there a reason all the aftermarket lower A-Arms have rod ends instead of poly bushings? The closest thing I ...

  1. #1
    Gearhead
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    Aftermarket Lower A-Arm question...

    Is there a reason all the aftermarket lower A-Arms have rod ends instead of poly bushings? The closest thing I found was the BMR set that have a rod end on the front side and a poly on the rear.

    I want to swap out the a-arms, but I really want to avoid rod ends as it's a street car in New England, and that would serve for some real un-fun rides.

    Yes, I know you can get bushing sets for the stock a-arms, I'm looking for an aftermarket arm set.

    Anyone?

  2. #2
    Impounded
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    I too searched for them but sprung for the UMI's. The road ends are supposed to wear out really quick under daily driving conditions as well.

  3. #3
    Gearhead
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    Actually, just for accuracy, I think I had the BMR setup backwards. Rod end on rear side, bushing on the front =)

    Still, question remains open to anyone who can answer....?

  4. #4
    Junior Member SilverProject's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Szalkerous View Post
    Is there a reason all the aftermarket lower A-Arms have rod ends instead of poly bushings? The closest thing I found was the BMR set that have a rod end on the front side and a poly on the rear.

    I want to swap out the a-arms, but I really want to avoid rod ends as it's a street car in New England, and that would serve for some real un-fun rides.

    Yes, I know you can get bushing sets for the stock a-arms, I'm looking for an aftermarket arm set.

    Anyone?
    Hey man,

    Not sure about the Camaro but I think if energysuspension.com doesn't have them no one will. I have/had their bushing kits in my ride and I would highly recommand their products. Control arms they usually sell seperate. Noltec is a really good name too, but they where just bought out with a new name of whiteline.
    BMR StressBar/Koni/Eibach,Hotchkis anti-sway bars, Full polys.energy, 18''w/Advan AD07's.BMRskid. K&NFIPK,B&Mshorty.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverProject View Post
    Hey man,

    Not sure about the Camaro but I think if energysuspension.com doesn't have them no one will. I have/had their bushing kits in my ride and I would highly recommand their products. Control arms they usually sell seperate. Noltec is a really good name too, but they where just bought out with a new name of whiteline.
    Hey, thanks for the reply. Problem is, if the new arms aren't designed for bushings, it does me no good. My trouble is finding aftermarket tubular arms.

    For others' benefit, I will relay the reply from BMR Fab as to why they don't produce full bushing lowers:

    "...the rod end is needed to set castor. We have made these arms for 10 years and the noise and failure rate of that rod end is very small. I think we have only replaced 2 of them, and it was because the guy lived in Chicago and didn't wash the snow and salt off of his car."

    Not sure why I would HAVE to set castor on my a-arms (thus requiring the rod end)... I'm fairly certain the stock setup has no castor adjustment there...

  6. #6
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
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    if you havnt already recieved an anwser yet, it because they will bind with both being poly. you stock ones come with spfter rubber. UMI and all them use poly and thhey are much stiffer. Your a arm would never travel correctly with a poly bushing, causing all kinds of weird unexpected driving conditions. If you take a look at the mounts, ones vertical while the other one is horizontial, relativly. I wonder on the other hand if UMI has made a roto joint for these to help with this?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Szalkerous View Post
    Is there a reason all the aftermarket lower A-Arms have rod ends instead of poly bushings? The closest thing I found was the BMR set that have a rod end on the front side and a poly on the rear.

    I want to swap out the a-arms, but I really want to avoid rod ends as it's a street car in New England, and that would serve for some real un-fun rides.

    Yes, I know you can get bushing sets for the stock a-arms, I'm looking for an aftermarket arm set.

    Anyone?
    Hello,

    I will be glad to help you and explain the reason for this. The rear bushing on the lower A-Arms is a pivot bushing that GM uses. This bushing mounts vertically and pivots as the A-Arm moves up and down. Even with rubber bushings in this place the factory bushings are still known to crack and we have seen many stock cracked bushings in this location. Aftermarket companies such as us use a rod end or similar in this location due to the needed articulation. If we would place polyurethane in this mount it will bind severely, crack or even break.

    Our solution to this is our Roto-Joint in the rear bushing location and polyurethane in the front location. This is our most streetable set up and what we would recommend for customers looking for the best ride quality. Part # is 2306 and they can be seen here- Polyurethane/Roto-Joint Lower A-Arms

    Here is also a little information regarding our Roto-Joint- Roto-Joint Information

    Please take a look and let me know if you have any questions, I will be glad to help.

    Thank you!
    Ryan


  8. #8
    autoconnectionllc.com 02transamce's Avatar
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    so can a tubular k-member with the pictured lower a arms be used on a daily driver?

  9. #9
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Performance View Post
    Hello,

    I will be glad to help you and explain the reason for this. The rear bushing on the lower A-Arms is a pivot bushing that GM uses. This bushing mounts vertically and pivots as the A-Arm moves up and down. Even with rubber bushings in this place the factory bushings are still known to crack and we have seen many stock cracked bushings in this location. Aftermarket companies such as us use a rod end or similar in this location due to the needed articulation. If we would place polyurethane in this mount it will bind severely, crack or even break.

    Our solution to this is our Roto-Joint in the rear bushing location and polyurethane in the front location. This is our most streetable set up and what we would recommend for customers looking for the best ride quality. Part # is 2306 and they can be seen here- Polyurethane/Roto-Joint Lower A-Arms

    Here is also a little information regarding our Roto-Joint- Roto-Joint Information

    Please take a look and let me know if you have any questions, I will be glad to help.

    Thank you!
    Ryan

    Click for full size
    there he is lol guess that answers most of our questions then. Im taking an educational guess that the roto/poly setup is probably THE most streetable setup for A-arms

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 02transamce View Post
    so can a tubular k-member with the pictured lower a arms be used on a daily driver?
    Hello, Yes our K-member and these A-Arms will be fine on a daily driver with no issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 View Post
    there he is lol guess that answers most of our questions then. Im taking an educational guess that the roto/poly setup is probably THE most streetable setup for A-arms
    Yes these would be our most streetable A-Arms and I would say the most streetable on the market as well.

    I hope that helps everyone!
    Ryan

  11. #11
    autoconnectionllc.com 02transamce's Avatar
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    Cool,thanks! I will be getting one soon
    Posted via Mobile Device

  12. #12
    Join the PHK @ thephk.org Sommer86@6LE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Performance View Post
    Hello,

    I will be glad to help you and explain the reason for this. The rear bushing on the lower A-Arms is a pivot bushing that GM uses. This bushing mounts vertically and pivots as the A-Arm moves up and down. Even with rubber bushings in this place the factory bushings are still known to crack and we have seen many stock cracked bushings in this location. Aftermarket companies such as us use a rod end or similar in this location due to the needed articulation. If we would place polyurethane in this mount it will bind severely, crack or even break.

    Our solution to this is our Roto-Joint in the rear bushing location and polyurethane in the front location. This is our most streetable set up and what we would recommend for customers looking for the best ride quality. Part # is 2306 and they can be seen here- Polyurethane/Roto-Joint Lower A-Arms

    Here is also a little information regarding our Roto-Joint- Roto-Joint Information

    Please take a look and let me know if you have any questions, I will be glad to help.

    Thank you!
    Ryan

    Click for full size
    Ordered these with a tubular K from UMI. Just waiting for it to all show up. I'll be running this set-up on my 402 daily driver.

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  13. #13
    Senior Member JoshuaGrooms83's Avatar
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    be looking into those as well after everything else first.

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