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10-22-2010, 08:32 PM #1
Advice on complete bushing replacement.
Well,I bought the complete master bushing set in prothane for my car. All the susp parts are stock. I have a nice jack and stands,what else do I need? Can I do this wo a lift and air tools? I know it is going to take some time,and I also want to clean rust and paint some of the pieces while I'm there. Any advice would b greatly appreciated.
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10-22-2010, 10:18 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- texas
- Posts
- 1,623
silver- 2000 formula
i used a propane torch to burn the old rubber out...in the control arm bushings...other than that its pretty straight forward
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10-23-2010, 09:26 PM #3
ok, i guess this should go pretty simply. It is gonna take me a while, though. Got new struts to go in at the same time. Should make a difference.
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10-23-2010, 09:45 PM #4
I would get some new strut mounts as well if you wanna.do it right.
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10-23-2010, 10:36 PM #5
How much are those?
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10-24-2010, 09:07 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- California
- Posts
- 8
Yellow- 1969 el Camino
Just a little advice. When you change out the mounts do one side at a time. That way you will have one side to check to make sure you get it back together correctly. Your strut bushings should be fairly inexpensive.
Have a good one,
Bill
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10-24-2010, 01:34 PM #7
unless you never intend to lower your car or add any power, than you should save the money and time replacing bushings and just save up for adjustable parts..
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10-24-2010, 01:56 PM #8
I don't intend on lowering it,and it's gonna be a while till I can get into replacing suspension parts.
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10-24-2010, 08:07 PM #9
Are you doing the rears as well? if so your gona need a press. A good C clamp and big socket help out a hell of alot when burning the fronts out of their shells.
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10-24-2010, 09:39 PM #10
way too much work for junky stock suspension pieces IMHO..
can someone explain to me the benefit of replacing bushings on stock parts with polyurethane?? because I just don't get it. how much of a difference is polyurethane going to make on suspension pieces that suck to begin with??
not to mention that if he is planning to put poly on the LCA that's will only be beneficial when going in a straight line and not any other time
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10-25-2010, 11:13 AM #11
Its maintenance, would u rather I put new stock bushings on? They are more expensive.
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10-26-2010, 02:30 PM #12
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12-12-2010, 09:11 PM #13
Well, I got them all changed out. I did the ball joints and tie rods and shocks at the same time. The old stuff was SHOT. I can't believe i was driving around on those worn out pieces. The bushings were half gone in places. Took me one day to do the rear end. Then a week to do the front. The only difference I notice so far is the shocks. But piece of mind is alot better now. Now to save up for new LCAs all the way around, and do it again. At least I know how to do it now.
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12-30-2010, 03:57 PM #14
I just got my kit in the mail today. Is it as straight forward as everyone says. Any tricks to make it go quicker and easier would be appreciated.
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12-30-2010, 05:38 PM #15
Let me see. Take yourtime. I did the rear in a day. Took me six days to do front. I would recommended changing tie rod ends and upper lower ball joints too. I got a whole set off ebay for about sixty dollars. Also,go buy some grease. The stuff they sent didn't do it all. And it's kinda crappy. Use oil on everything to loosen bollts and nuts. And the rear lca front bolt holes don't match the bolts that are there. Get bigger bolts to replace them. I also found out at alignment time that I should have drilled slots for front bolts of the front lcas wider side to side for more alignment room. To gwt the shells in and out,I just oiled them and pounded them w a hammer and a little chisel. And the instructions are hard to read,but complete. And the sleeves you reuse on the front lcas are two different sizes. Pay attentio
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