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Adjustable Panhard Bar

This is a discussion on Adjustable Panhard Bar within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; id get the lca too to be honest also...

  1. #21
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    id get the lca too to be honest also

  2. #22
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    You do not "need" adjustable LCA's for being lowered...

    Adjustable LCA recenter the wheel front to back. These are usually required when you go with a larger tire such as a Slick for wheel to well clearance.

    I don't think you will have an issue running your stock LCAs or aftermarket non-adjustable LCAs. Obviously the aftermarket ones are much stronger though. It never hurts to have adjustable though.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    damn. my car is just a cruiser and strictly that. don't go to the track, no autox, just drive the car on nice days with spirited driving. so all of this is needed to center the car back to where its supposed to be.
    if your car is just a cruiser i would get poly joints, IMHO i dont see the need to waste money on something that will not be needed or used

    and i would get the adj LCAs...you never know if you will need a little adjustment here and there and whatnot

  4. #24
    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    You do not "need" adjustable LCA's for being lowered...

    Adjustable LCA recenter the wheel front to back. These are usually required when you go with a larger tire such as a Slick for wheel to well clearance.

    I don't think you will have an issue running your stock LCAs or aftermarket non-adjustable LCAs. Obviously the aftermarket ones are much stronger though. It never hurts to have adjustable though.
    well that might be needed. i'm looking to get some wide tires to fit the wheels i have. im thinking about putting 315s in the rear. im going to get rid of the prokit and buying stranos as well

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    well that might be needed. i'm looking to get some wide tires to fit the wheels i have. im thinking about putting 315s in the rear. im going to get rid of the prokit and buying stranos as well

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    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shady milkman View Post
    whats a prokit with 3000 miles on it worth?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    whats a prokit with 3000 miles on it worth?
    about $150 shipped give or take

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    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    im assuming stranos website is the cheapest place to pick up the springs

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    im assuming stranos website is the cheapest place to pick up the springs
    yep....as far as i know

  10. #30
    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    is there a big advantage over weld in or bolt in relocation brackets. im assuming weld in is stronger.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    yep....as far as i know

    i probably need to get those on the way so i can get this prokit sold.

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    lol im doing the exact thing as the op. Got an adj panhard with poly end (I do believe you can upgrade to roto joints if you have adj hardware later) from umi on the way, some LCA relocation brackets on the way, sticking with my umi non-adj LCA for now, Vogtland springs, and i discovered some tires that fit my car for free today 255&275/40ZR17s first one to complete their mods wins lol... youll probably win cause you'll get your stuff before me probably lol I got an APO addy that no one likes to ship to
    As for welding vs bolt-ons.... I go for bolts on. Easy to do and if you get froggy, you can always weld it in later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    is there a big advantage over weld in or bolt in relocation brackets. im assuming weld in is stronger.

    you talking about the relocation brackets for the LCAs??.....if so....i would get the bolt in brackets

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    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83 View Post
    lol im doing the exact thing as the op. Got an adj panhard with poly end (I do believe you can upgrade to roto joints if you have adj hardware later) from umi on the way, some LCA relocation brackets on the way, sticking with my umi non-adj LCA for now, Vogtland springs, and i discovered some tires that fit my car for free today 255&275/40ZR17s first one to complete their mods wins lol... youll probably win cause you'll get your stuff before me probably lol I got an APO addy that no one likes to ship to
    As for welding vs bolt-ons.... I go for bolts on. Easy to do and if you get froggy, you can always weld it in later.
    i doubt i will beat you. i need to work on the funding department.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    you talking about the relocation brackets for the LCAs??.....if so....i would get the bolt in brackets
    if i do the relocation brackets do i need to have the adj. LCAs then or will stock work for a little while?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post



    if i do the relocation brackets do i need to have the adj. LCAs then or will stock work for a little while?
    im not 100% sure b/c i dont know anyone that has done it that way BUT i dont see why it wouldnt work.....try it out and let us know??

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    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    im not 100% sure b/c i dont know anyone that has done it that way BUT i dont see why it wouldnt work.....try it out and let us know??
    so this is what i need
    -adj. on car PHB (poly or roto?)
    -LCA relocation brackets
    -adj. LCAs???
    -Torque Arm and torque arm relocation bracket???

    someone please confirm where the question marks are

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    so this is what i need
    -adj. on car PHB (poly or roto?)
    -LCA relocation brackets
    -adj. LCAs???
    -Torque Arm and torque arm relocation bracket???

    someone please confirm where the question marks are

    Poly or roto -- it is really up to you. Really hard cornering and suspension loading you want the roto. Daily driving and the usual fun we have with our cars the poly is ideal for.

    As far as adjustable components -- the fact that your car is lowered means that the geometry is off. Not by a huge amount and you would be fine utilizing non-adjustable pieces. However, in order to center your wheels in the wells and center your axle in the car, adjustable pieces allow you to do this. As stated, if you install a mondo wheel and tire package the difference becomes more evident.

    The LCA relocation brackets simply maintain a better geometry than your stock mounting points on a lowered car. Plus they help with bite at the track. As 35th pointed out, they are not a necessity -- it is entirely up to you. From what I have read in this thread you should probably go with anything but the tunnel mount setup. An adjustable torque arm will allow you to maintain the proper pinion angle and is not a bad idea.

    Give Ryan at UMI a shout and he'll answer all your questions, plus hook you up with whatever you need.

  17. #37
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post

    if i do the relocation brackets do i need to have the adj. LCAs then or will stock work for a little while?
    The mounting holes on the relocation brackets are on an arc...therefore your stock LCAs will fit fine.

    You want to have your LCA mounted to the lowest hole to start. Some have found that the 2nd hole up works better for them with wheel hop and traction.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2001camaroSS View Post
    so this is what i need
    -adj. on car PHB (poly or roto?)
    -LCA relocation brackets
    -adj. LCAs???
    -Torque Arm and torque arm relocation bracket???

    someone please confirm where the question marks are
    this is base on your saying your car is just a "driver" no bsin around (track or whatnot)

    get poly ends...and the adj LCAs, you can adj your rearend if need be plus if your change your rearend down the road you have everything you need

    i cant comment on the torque arm b/c im trying to fine out witch one i need as well

  19. #39
    Senior Member 2001camaroSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Poly or roto -- it is really up to you. Really hard cornering and suspension loading you want the roto. Daily driving and the usual fun we have with our cars the poly is ideal for.

    As far as adjustable components -- the fact that your car is lowered means that the geometry is off. Not by a huge amount and you would be fine utilizing non-adjustable pieces. However, in order to center your wheels in the wells and center your axle in the car, adjustable pieces allow you to do this. As stated, if you install a mondo wheel and tire package the difference becomes more evident.

    The LCA relocation brackets simply maintain a better geometry than your stock mounting points on a lowered car. Plus they help with bite at the track. As 35th pointed out, they are not a necessity -- it is entirely up to you. From what I have read in this thread you should probably go with anything but the tunnel mount setup. An adjustable torque arm will allow you to maintain the proper pinion angle and is not a bad idea.

    Give Ryan at UMI a shout and he'll answer all your questions, plus hook you up with whatever you need.
    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    The mounting holes on the relocation brackets are on an arc...therefore your stock LCAs will fit fine.

    You want to have your LCA mounted to the lowest hole to start. Some have found that the 2nd hole up works better for them with wheel hop and traction.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6 View Post
    this is base on your saying your car is just a "driver" no bsin around (track or whatnot)

    get poly ends...and the adj LCAs, you can adj your rearend if need be plus if your change your rearend down the road you have everything you need

    i cant comment on the torque arm b/c im trying to fine out witch one i need as well
    thank you all for the info. helps me out a ton. the car is seriously a driver only. yes i have some fun but no drag strip for me. i just want the car to ride nicely. as of now it rides like shit with these new wheels/tires.

  20. #40
    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    i will tell you that you should by all means use the rotojoints..they are not noisy like the rod ends and they offer great range of movement...also again i suggest that you get lca adjustable of course..why upgrade most of your rear suspension only to keep the flimsy stock lca ? it makes no sense as the who rear suspension works together..and you will not get the most out of your set up with stamped oem parts in the mix. On top of that why get poly ? why not spend the little extra and get a end that will perform well above what you will throw at it. I DD my car over 20k a year..and i have rotojoint on my panhard bar and on my lca ... so i stress to you get the rotos for everything..double poly is there for people who arent all that concerned for performance or adjustablity ..and if that is the case..might as well just get oem parts

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