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Adjustable Lower Control Arms & Panhard Bar

This is a discussion on Adjustable Lower Control Arms & Panhard Bar within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Hey guys looking for some help. I have a relatively stock '98 WS6, but I'm looking to upgrade the rear, ...

  1. #1
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    Adjustable Lower Control Arms & Panhard Bar

    Hey guys looking for some help. I have a relatively stock '98 WS6, but I'm looking to upgrade the rear, lower it, etc.

    I'm looking to slowly upgrade the rear suspension before I go with a 9", I have SFC's and now want to replace the LCA's and go with an adjustable panhard bar. I'm thinking I want to go with all adjustable items because hey you never know....

    The car will be predominantly a weekend car but maybe a few runs at the track. For the LCA's what kind of adjustable do I want? I see single and double adjustable types, what is everyone running....Pro's / Cons.. What is actually easiest to adjust on the car?

    Also what ends are you guys running? Poly or roto?

    Any help would be great, thanks in advance...

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I'm running the on-car adjustable PHB from UMI. Zero issues. Roto-joint end version.

    My LCA's are non-adjustable though from BMR. Have them hooked up to the relocation brackets welded to the 9". Again, no issues and my wheels are perfectly centered.

    I'd get both from UMI. On the LCA's, single adjustable will allow you to adjust the length, but you'll need to remove one end first. The double adjustables you can adjust without removing them.
    It's on jackstands.

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    35th-thanks for the info, I figured one version could be adjusted on the car and one couldn't....thanks for the confirmation

    Ok I was definately thinking of going all UMI. I dont want to post links on here but I'm thinking in terms of LCA's from UMI im down to one of the following:

    Part #2039-> F-Body On-car Adjustable Control Arms- Poly/Roto-Joint
    Part# 2017-> F-Body Double Adjustable Control Arms
    Part# 2035-> F-Body Double Adjustable Control Arms- Roto-Joints
    Part# 2018-> F-Body Adjustable Lower Control Arms w/ Polyurethane Bushings

    I like the idea of the double adjustable, but the #2039 or 2018 seems like it might give me the best ride around town as the car is pretty much a weekend cruiser right now. I feel like the all roto joints (#2035) might make the car even rougher to drive around town...and #2017 seems more tailored to pure racing.....Any thoughts?

    For the panhard bar I'm sure the same selection logic applies...

    Once again thanks for the insight.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I have the on-car single adjustable with roto and mine is consider lowered. Rides real good. Don't forget to consider an adjustable torque arm. That will effect the ride a little more then the the lca's. Reason being that as you drop in height the pinon angle changes. In order to get it correct again the torque arm needs to compensate.

    When you do the TA look at getting it off the tail cone. I didn't go with the shorten TA because when I talked with the UMI guys told me that because I'm lowered with LT headers and ORY, if I relocated the TA to the tunnel brace I would hit every speed bump and scrape bad. It's great for track only cars but for street not so much.

    I'll dig up my part numbers for you to look at.

    You'll also need an adjustable PHB too.


    I'd wait for sway bars until after the rest is done.
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  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Here are the UMI part numbers I have and what I paid for.

    Adjustable Torque Arm # 2205 $300
    Torque Arm Relocation Kit for Transmission Cross-member # 2207 $250
    LCA - On Car Adjustable with Roto Joints # 2239 $210
    PHB - On Car Adjustable with Roto Joints # 2037 $140
    2 point Subframe connectors # 2001 $150
    Tower Strut Brace # 2005 $70

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    Drop&Drag matt evans's Avatar
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    I run alot of UMI products on my drag car but on my street car I am using Founders. Both are great manufacturers.

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    Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to go with 2239 for the LCA's. My question is if I replace the rear am I going to have an issue attaching it to relocated attachment points. I assume with the poly and roto joint they will allow me to install on most any rearend.

    Also think, I'll go with the 2037 for the panhard bar.

    Did you feel a nice difference when you upgraded?

    The torque arm will be down the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I have the on-car single adjustable with roto and mine is consider lowered. Rides real good. Don't forget to consider an adjustable torque arm. That will effect the ride a little more then the the lca's. Reason being that as you drop in height the pinon angle changes. In order to get it correct again the torque arm needs to compensate.

    When you do the TA look at getting it off the tail cone. I didn't go with the shorten TA because when I talked with the UMI guys told me that because I'm lowered with LT headers and ORY, if I relocated the TA to the tunnel brace I would hit every speed bump and scrape bad. It's great for track only cars but for street not so much.

    I'll dig up my part numbers for you to look at.

    You'll also need an adjustable PHB too.


    I'd wait for sway bars until after the rest is done.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    You should have no issues with an aftermarket rear because they are made to our car's brackets. The only one that may need a relocation bracket will be the PHB. Reason why is the exhaust can hit it when lowered.


    I had the 2pt SFC's and TSB for 18 months prior to the other stuff. The day I put the SFC's on I immediately notice that the car felt tighter, after I did the other stuff with Hotchkis springs and new shocks it really handles great. Launching is very good, it doesn't want to kick out and keeps the power to the pavement. I used to have a lot of wheel spin prior to the LCA's/PHB/TA now not so much.

  9. #9
    Hey guys. Thanks for the UMI mentions!

    Let me know if you have any questions now that I'm subscribed to this thread...

    thanks

    ramey
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I'm running the on-car adjustable PHB from UMI. Zero issues. Roto-joint end version.

    My LCA's are non-adjustable though from BMR. Have them hooked up to the relocation brackets welded to the 9". Again, no issues and my wheels are perfectly centered.

    I'd get both from UMI. On the LCA's, single adjustable will allow you to adjust the length, but you'll need to remove one end first. The double adjustables you can adjust without removing them.
    whats ''roto'' stand for ?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=roto_joint

  12. #12
    Thanks Jon. I had this marked to reply and voila, there it is.

    DM, let me know if I can clarify anything. Basically the Roto-Joint offers the benefits of a rod end with some cushioning and quietness.

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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Sales View Post
    Thanks Jon. I had this marked to reply and voila, there it is.

    DM, let me know if I can clarify anything. Basically the Roto-Joint offers the benefits of a rod end with some cushioning and quietness.
    Oh i see! Theres so many Abbreviations sometimes Some i know right away some i have to ask,,After theyre decoded its an aha moment.Yeah as of now i have poly--(hey i know that one ) bushings on my LCA`s,Adj. PHB and shocks,TA and motor mounts....Ive heard good and bad about poly but i already have had them for 5 years w/ no problems but i still have alot of other suspension upgrades in the future( like a whole front end TA etc) so its good to know and learn from the guys who have the same type of cars to get a general idea of whats what! Thanks for your help!

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    Member SuperSSguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=roto_joint
    Thanks for the link! i like to see it too...sometimes a verbal explanation isnt as good as a visual 1 Thanks!

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSSguy View Post
    Thanks for the link! i like to see it too...sometimes a verbal explanation isnt as good as a visual 1 Thanks!
    Let me know how we can help. We love making 4th Gen's work great. We have two in-house which are really fast and good handlers, one LT car which is a daily driver and one for k-member development.

    ramey

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    ^^ OK no problem soon as i get the bucks!!

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    Member SuperSSguy's Avatar
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    .................Also while were here taliking about suspension parts ...Whats the read on styles...Squared off -vs- round tube ? LCA`s etc....

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSSguy View Post
    .................Also while were here taliking about suspension parts ...Whats the read on styles...Squared off -vs- round tube ? LCA`s etc....
    We actually don't rank our products based on strength. Round vs square vs rectangular are all so much stronger than stock, we ask customers to pick based on the appearance they like.

    Chromoly parts tend to be one wall thickness thinner than mild steel. The strength is roughly the same but CrMo is lighter due to the thinness. Both are adequately strong.

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    ^^ Thanks...Yeah anythings better then the hollow stamped stockers--thats for sure!!

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    I run damn near the entire UMI catalogue on our car -- their stuff fits, functions perfectly, looks great and is so much better than what the General installed. As our car is not lowered, I run non-adjustable rear suspension components, with the exception of the tunnel mount torque arm. Moser's 12 bolt rear slid right into place and the double adjustment on the torque arm allowed me to dial in the pinion angle. Once you have your suspension in place, unless you then change out other components, it is unlikely that you will be messing with the settings. I wouldn't hesitate to go with single adjustable pieces as you simply have to remove a bolt to drop it and change the length should the need ever arise.

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