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2point vs 3 point subframe connectors?

This is a discussion on 2point vs 3 point subframe connectors? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; I am looking into totally redoing my suspension/chassis. I am looking subframes that will give me the best handling (I ...

  1. #1
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    2point vs 3 point subframe connectors?

    I am looking into totally redoing my suspension/chassis. I am looking subframes that will give me the best handling (I am not concerned about drag racing). What is better, 2 point, or 3 point? I like the UMI as well as the slp 3 points, does anyone have any feed back on them. Also, I have been told that you can use subframe connectors as jacking points, Is that true? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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    I have 3 point bolt ons from slp and I love them. I use my car for autocross racing. I am not big into drag racing. They are easy to install and have tightened up my car a great deal.

    I also have a torque arm and strut tower brace. I just ordered LCA's, panhard rod, lowering springs, bilsteins, new sway bars. When I put them on in the next week or so I will be using the subframes to help jack the car up. I have jack stands but I would like to get big wooden blocks to use because the jack stands I have are all u shaped at the top and I just prefer a flush fit when I am jacking the car up and am going to be working on it for an extended time.

    Good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Emccus01 View Post
    I have 3 point bolt ons from slp and I love them. I use my car for autocross racing. I am not big into drag racing. They are easy to install and have tightened up my car a great deal.

    I also have a torque arm and strut tower brace. I just ordered LCA's, panhard rod, lowering springs, bilsteins, new sway bars. When I put them on in the next week or so I will be using the subframes to help jack the car up. I have jack stands but I would like to get big wooden blocks to use because the jack stands I have are all u shaped at the top and I just prefer a flush fit when I am jacking the car up and am going to be working on it for an extended time.

    Good luck.
    Thanks for the feedback. Like you I am also into auto x racing, and not realy a fan of drag racing. Out of curiosity, did you go with adjustable lca's and panhard rod? I am going to do lowering springs as well, and I am not sure weather to go for the adjustables, or standard. From what I have been reading it seems that most people on this forum recomend adjustables to line up the rear.

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    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
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    SLP 3-point bolt-ons, best mod of all that I have done. Will feel a little stiff at first, but you get used to it quick.

  5. #5
    Member OneslowZ28's Avatar
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    slp bolt ins are great especially welded after the fact.
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    Junior Member Mad-Max's Avatar
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    I have umi 3 point bolt-on. Really made a big difference, car handles much better and alot stiffer ride. You can't use them as a lift point though (because of the round tubing construction).

  7. #7
    ruff ruff rotwiler's Avatar
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    LT's, 3400 stall, FIPK,CB
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    I have the 3 point Double Diamond style and use them when jacking up the car. One of the best mods I did for the car.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mad-Max View Post
    I have umi 3 point bolt-on. Really made a big difference, car handles much better and alot stiffer ride. You can't use them as a lift point though (because of the round tubing construction).
    You can jack up on them all you want, you will not hurt them at all. Just watch you don't scratch the powder coat

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    Quote Originally Posted by UMI Performance View Post
    You can jack up on them all you want, you will not hurt them at all. Just watch you don't scratch the powder coat
    I just received them from you guys and I must say that I am very impressed as well as satisfied. The quality is un beleiveable, and I would recomend them to everyone. I also ordered lca's and panhard rod from you, so as soon as they come in I am going to have everything installed at once. I will write back a review once everything is installed. So far, UMI has lived up to their reputation in my book.

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    i went with the adjustables. Just installed my whole suspension kit this weekend. Except for the front strusts and springs. hopefully this saturday I can get it all done. The adjustable LCAs and panhard were necessary in order to center everything. I had the car all set and then had to check the wheel spacing. it was tough to get the axle shifted to get it all squared but some tough grunt work did the trick. Having the adjustable pan hard rod is necessary too because once you align it with the lcas you need to make sure you can get things right with the pan hard rod. email me at edward.mccusker@ gmail.com if you need install help/advice

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    Can you see these from the side? Do you have headers? If so any issues with clearance?

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    ruff ruff rotwiler's Avatar
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    LT's, 3400 stall, FIPK,CB
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    I have ground fx(factory) on my Camaro and can't see them at all. I have seen some cars you can barely see them..I bought mine silver and matches my paint great, so looks like a factory piece. No problems with my long tube headers either, but I did have to weld up some places on my Y pipe so it wouldn't move around as much and touch the Y pipe. Even if you could care less about drag racing and cornering, they make a huge difference in sqeaks and rattles.. I have had my car since 2002 and taken it down the track 300+ time. Still no rattles on the dash and only very minor dimples in the rear 1/4 panel that you need to stand at a perfect angle to see, normal people wouldn't even notice them. Tracking on the highway is 100 times better than stock and is very nice having a easy to see jacking point. It is worth paying a little more for the 3 point and getting a quality good fitting one. Mine are bolt in ones and I have thought about welding them many times, but they work so great now, I have put it off. Never had a bolt loosen and I really push the car hard.

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    Member Huskerz1's Avatar
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    Sorry to hijack a bit here but I have a vert. I've only seen 2 point for verts. I am looking to get subframes for my next mod. Are there any 3 point subframes for verts?

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    I have a need for speed! jigger1166's Avatar
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    Do 'verts need SFCs?
    Does UMI make them for 'verts?
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    Absolutely they do. SFCs are very beneficial to 'vert cars.

    Quote Originally Posted by jigger1166 View Post
    Does UMI make them for 'verts?

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    Verts need SFC even more so than a ttop or coupe. That was the best mod I ever did for my vert. I believe there is one vendor out there that makes a 3 point SFC for the verts but won't state it since they aren't a site sponsor.
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    Member Huskerz1's Avatar
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    Then just PM this top secret info so I can at least get a look.

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    I have a need for speed! jigger1166's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2KPewterSS View Post
    Verts need SFC even more so than a ttop or coupe. That was the best mod I ever did for my vert. I believe there is one vendor out there that makes a 3 point SFC for the verts but won't state it since they aren't a site sponsor.
    Could you Email me the info please?

  19. #19
    Member GMS Fleet's Avatar
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    If you're looking to get SFC's we have a hell of a deal going on for a GP. $100+shipping for powdercoated weld-on 2-points. What I personally like about these SFC's is that they do not affect ground clearance and they don't stick out from underneath the car.
    http://69.42.146.24/forums/showthread.php?p=588742

  20. #20
    Member Z28LS1's Avatar
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    I've seen everyone opting for 3 point sfcs,.. does anyone have 2 point? and what is major difference.. I am modding my car for the drag strip.. if that helps.

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