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2 point SFCs question!!

This is a discussion on 2 point SFCs question!! within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Ok guys I need some opinions pls. I want to get some subframe connectors. I been looking at the 3 ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    2 point SFCs question!!

    Ok guys I need some opinions pls.
    I want to get some subframe connectors.
    I been looking at the 3 point which I like better than 2 point of Course,
    My question is.
    2 point sfcs make a difference on the car?
    Is it worth it?
    3 points I can't get then any time soon and they are kinda high in price for me.

    Should I get the 2 point or there's no
    Point on those?

    Thanks

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    For straight line and daily driving, 2 point will usually suffice. For auto-x and such, 3 point is better. That said, I chose 3 point and noticed quite a difference. Much improved handling. UMI makes a great product, and last I checked are available. The price difference between 2 and 3 point really isn't that big. I paid less than $300 for my 3 points.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    agree with Walt, I'll also add that with a vert you will need to stick with 2 points. When I got mine (also UMI) I went with 2 point because of $$ and not researching enough. I noticed an immediate difference while driving.

    Also if you get bolt ons you can latter weld them in.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    My (2) pt. sub-frame connectors tie into my torque arm relocation bracket.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    I asked cuz last nite I found some umi 2 point tubular sfcs
    For 150 installed.
    They got sold
    I also checked 3 point sbcs on eBay
    For almost $400 shipped. Way to much for me

    So you guys recommend me 2 point?

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I think for most applications, 2 pt are fine. Also note that box style subframe connectors are stronger than tubular style.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    I was looking at the tubular.
    Thanks for the info Jon. I learned some thing new today.
    I know Many people don't like slp but I seen some on my area for a good price. I don't know what u guys think about them




    Also I wanna add. The car is DD few times to the track maybe.
    Getting full bolt ons soon.
    Triying to reach 400-450. So I think I should be ok with 2 point.

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    I am very happy with the UMI 2 point bolt in SFC's on our car. Definitely made a difference, easy to install, and not all that expensive.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks jeff.
    I'll be getting some probably by Friday.
    Will be looking at used ones.

    Jon if I'm not wrong you said your 2 point sfcs torque arm relocation bracket?

    What brand are those?
    Any pics?
    Thanks

  10. #10
    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Thanks guys.
    I asked cuz last nite I found some umi 2 point tubular sfcs
    For 150 installed.
    They got sold
    I also checked 3 point sbcs on eBay
    For almost $400 shipped. Way to much for me

    So you guys recommend me 2 point?
    I got UMI 3 point's for $250 IIRC from kyspeed. The price difference is worth it IMO, especially if you end up upgrading the tunnel brace, you end up strengthening the whole car together.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    ThAnks Kevin.
    I'll look around for 2 point. Looking at used ones.
    In case I can't find used ones. I'll just get the 3 point depending on my budget at the time.

    After that upgrade. Will take me a while to get more suspension parts.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    Thanks jeff.
    I'll be getting some probably by Friday.
    Will be looking at used ones.

    Jon if I'm not wrong you said your 2 point sfcs torque arm relocation bracket?

    What brand are those?
    Any pics?
    Thanks
    Leo - My set-up is pretty hard core I have the BMR Trak Pak. The relocation bracket for the torque arm that removes the front mount off the tail shaft of the transmission is welded to each sub-frame connector. Usually the torque arm relocation bracket is bolted on to the bottom of the floor of the vehicle. Although not the same as having (3) pt, my set-up, since it ties into the (2) SFC's kinda resembles a (3) pt set-up.

    I would really only recommend the BMR Trak Pak if you are seriously contemplating going bigger like I did. Otherwise, the UMI (2) pt SFC's will do you just fine. I got the (2) pt. box style BMR SFC's that were welded in. I'm very happy with the quality and construction of them. They tightened the car up really well and they tuck up real nicely.

    I've seen the UMI units, and they are just about identical to the ones I have as far as quality and fitment.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks alot Jon.
    I got my 2 point sfc already.
    I should be installing them soon. I could proably make a custom work and make them 3 point sfc. Friend pf mine said he could try that lol.


    One more question.
    I got the weld in 2 point sfc.
    Can some 1 tell me or post a pic
    On where do they go or where to weld em?
    I don't have a clue how they go
    Thanks

  14. #14
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    For the best results you will need to put it on a lift that the car is lifted up by the wheels. Otherwise the rear suspension needs to be loaded. Some ppl have jacked the car up and then sit the rear tires on ramps so that they have the suspension loaded.


    Undo the LCA at where it meets the body, next hold up the SFC for that side and insert the bolt they provide. Tighten down enough but not torque to spec yet. Next hold SFC up to the sub frame in the front. Hopefully you remember to grind some of the paint off the SFC and the spot you intend to weld. Run a few good solid tac welds. Go back and check for any binding with the LCA and the SFC. If nothing go ahead and torque down to the specs they stated. Then finish welding the front. I ran a solid bead on both and front sides of the the flat part of the SFC and I also put a couple 2" beads where the SFC touches the rear sub frame near the LCA's. Once cooled off, throw a couple of sprays of color paint to help prevent rust.

    It takes longer to lift it up then it does to weld them in.

  15. #15
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Go this off UMI website. Hope it helps





  16. #16
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help & pic bro.

    I had the car on the lift earlier and I kinda figured out how to installed them. Doesn't look to hard.
    On the back where the LCA is do I have to remove the bolt?
    Cuz my sfc don't have a hole for that.
    Or I just weld them there?

    Thanks

  17. #17
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Ever SFC I've seen has been tied into the LCA as a mount point. I'd have to see a pic

  18. #18
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks. I'll try to post some pics later.

    So to weld the weld in sfcs do I have to remove the lower control arms?
    Or they can stay on while they weld the sfcs?

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Mine stay in place because that is what helps hold the sfc in place and proper position. I ran the bolt through and hand tighten the nut then went to the front and placed the tact welds in.

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