2 or 3pt bolt on SFC's

**tremiles** · 06-02-2009, 10:39 AM

I'm planning on installing the UMI bolt-in SFC's (don't have access to a MIG welder). I'm not sure if I should get the 2 or 3 point connectors though. I have a bone stock T-Top car, I don't currently run the car at the track or auto-x but I may in the future. Cost isn't really an issue, but eventually I plan on lowering springs and shocks and I'm not sure if clearance will be an issue. I don't plan on going lower than an inch or so, just enough to fill the wheelwells with ZR-1 wheels with 275/40-17's.

Do you lose much ground clearance with the 3 point connectors? How does the weight of the CM 3 point compare to the mild steel 2 point connectors.

**blackcar** · 06-02-2009, 10:47 AM

I have SLP 3-point. The part going to the thrid point in the middle has more ground clearence than the main part between the sub-frames.

**02Sweet** · 06-02-2009, 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by tremiles

I'm planning on installing the UMI bolt-in SFC's (don't have access to a MIG welder). I'm not sure if I should get the 2 or 3 point connectors though. I have a bone stock T-Top car, I don't currently run the car at the track or auto-x but I may in the future. Cost isn't really an issue, but eventually I plan on lowering springs and shocks and I'm not sure if clearance will be an issue. I don't plan on going lower than an inch or so, just enough to fill the wheelwells with ZR-1 wheels with 275/40-17's.

Do you lose much ground clearance with the 3 point connectors? How does the weight of the CM 3 point compare to the mild steel 2 point connectors.

I have the umi 3 points and they are a cake walk to put them on I lost about 1/4" ground clearance with them installed its not bad at all. Put some locktite on the bolts before putting them in though

**Z28_Driver** · 06-03-2009, 07:16 PM

Will the umi 3pt make a difference?
my cars a hardtop, no T-tops
I do all my racing at stoplights and would like to make 450hp eventually.
Do I even need SFCs for this car? i dont want wavy rear quarters though.

**02Sweet** · 06-03-2009, 07:29 PM

I have a hardtop too and I plan on that much hp too
I got them bc of the security and what a friends car felt like
I did other mods with the 3 pt sfc but the body/int def squeks less

**Z28_Driver** · 06-03-2009, 07:37 PM

Did you do the bolt on or weld the 3pt?

**Mr. Luos** · 06-03-2009, 09:31 PM

Always get WELD-ON SFC's.

3 point aren't really needed unless you plan on getting a tunnel braced torque arm.
Although they won't hurt.

**02Sweet** · 06-04-2009, 02:59 AM

Originally Posted by Z28_Driver

Did you do the bolt on or weld the 3pt?

I did the bolt on's, once I get more welding gas I will weld them in too.

**vetteemt** · 06-04-2009, 05:57 AM

Originally Posted by Z28_Driver

Will the umi 3pt make a difference?
my cars a hardtop, no T-tops
I do all my racing at stoplights and would like to make 450hp eventually.
Do I even need SFCs for this car? i dont want wavy rear quarters though.

2pts are okay, but 3pts are better. I personally would only install 3 pts, due to they give support for front to back and side to side loads. Where 2 pts really just give front to back support.

**02Sweet** · 06-04-2009, 06:04 AM

Originally Posted by vetteemt

2pts are okay, but 3pts are better. I personally would only install 3 pts, due to they give support for front to back and side to side loads. Where 2 pts really just give front to back support.

I agree which is why i went with the 3 point plus it will tie in with the torque arm tunnel brace

**0verkill** · 06-04-2009, 08:36 AM

if its a drag only car you will be fine with 2 point but if you going to get them just get the 3 points. i have the bolt in umi 3 point's and i love them you will be happy you put them on.

**02Sweet** · 06-04-2009, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by 01 T/A

if its a drag only car you will be fine with 2 point but if you going to get them just get the 3 points. i have the bolt in umi 3 point's and i love them you will be happy you put them on.

did you have to tighten yours yet? I have not
I was thinking about welding them in

**0verkill** · 06-04-2009, 09:17 AM

no i havint and they have bine on for almost two years but i dont drive my car that much.

**gbd99ws6** · 06-04-2009, 03:17 PM

Originally Posted by Z28_Driver

Do I even need SFCs for this car? .

I waited 4 yrs before I got mine (UMI 3pt), always thinking why do I need those, can't make that much of a difference, wish to hell I would have done it the first day I bought the car. The difference in the way the car feels and handles is amazing. So IMHO even if it was just a DD, YES you need these.

**Mr. Luos** · 06-04-2009, 07:31 PM

SFC's are really a first mod type of thing. Right up with a lid and catback.

**Z28_Driver** · 06-05-2009, 07:35 AM

thanks for the info.
i'm adding the umi 3pts to my list.
should i go with the chrome moly? there 100 more, but they salt the road here. will they hold up better against rust?
i don't drive the car with snow on the road, just after its cleaned.
there is salt residue til march or sometimes april here.

**0verkill** · 06-05-2009, 07:59 AM

they are crome moly and will rust also the are just less w8t. the best thing is to paint them good after you get them on. if they are the bolt ones they have a good powder on them and there is no need.

**Mieux97** · 06-05-2009, 08:29 AM

So I will go out on a limb here and say that I would be better off getting 3 pt SFC's? I wanna add underbody lighting....how will SFC's affect that?

**vetteemt** · 06-05-2009, 08:44 AM

Originally Posted by Mieux97

So I will go out on a limb here and say that I would be better off getting 3 pt SFC's? I wanna add underbody lighting....how will SFC's affect that?

The sfcs well add some weight, but all the weight is as low as you can get it and if you must add weight that’s were you want to add it; from a handling stand point.