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2 or 3 point SFCs?

This is a discussion on 2 or 3 point SFCs? within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; this is an opinion based thread: wats better...2 or 3 point subframe connectors? im trying to get some but am ...

  1. #1
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    2 or 3 point SFCs?

    this is an opinion based thread:

    wats better...2 or 3 point subframe connectors?

    im trying to get some but am not sure which is better....im sure 3 point will stiffen the chassis more, but im concerned with the extra weight and possible ground clearance issues...theres also $$$
    thanks!

  2. #2
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    Unless your going to be autocrossing or something like it then the 2 point will be just fine. Grand clearance is not an issue. PM me if your seriously interested in purchasing any kind of sub-frame connectors. I am sure I can give you the best price you can find.


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    2 points are good and well probably do you find, but 3 points are the strongest and the best. If you have the cash I'd go with 3 points.
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    Quality 3 points do not hand very low, that's something you need to know.

    3 points are stiffer because they are triangulated.

    My question is what's too stiff? I don't think that every car or person needs SFC's. That said, if you are going to put them on, and feel you need them, why not put the stiffest ones on you can? Either way you are adding weight to the car. Just a matter of how much and for what reason.

    FWIW, on a 2 point vs. a 3 point, the difference isn't quite as much as many think. Some think it's 30 or 40 pounds. In reality it's about 20 pounds in total for the pair of SFC's. Yes, it's weight. But it's as low as it can go and in the center of the car, and serves a purpose.

    I don't know either is right or wrong. I'm just saying you need to weigh the costs, weight vs. strength. Below you'll find a link to my chassis page. It has pictures of the SFC's where you can compare and contrast different versions.

    http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=22&ModelID=7
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    i have SLP 3-point bolt ons, and it has held the car together threw a lot i would go with those even though they are pretty expensive

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    I sell SLP, and I'd go with UMI's instead. They fit much better, and cost a lot less. I don't disagree the SLP's are strong, just not very good value for the money IMHO today, and they do hang low. Also the UMI's capture the rear LCA mount as well, the SLP's do not.

    Pic of UMI 3-pts off the car:

    Pic of them on the car:
    Last edited by Sam Strano; 10-14-2008 at 07:08 PM.

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    What abould verts? Can you get 3points for those?

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    I am actually thinking about upgrading to the 3 point cause i do some autocross as well.
    Should I worry about my X-pipe being in the way?

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    Is it true that bolt on SFC will squeek and rattle over time? Since there usally more $ over the weld in kind.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamptonwsk View Post
    What abould verts? Can you get 3points for those?

    2-pts only for convertibles due to the extra bracing they have stock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    I am actually thinking about upgrading to the 3 point cause i do some autocross as well.
    Should I worry about my X-pipe being in the way?
    Depends on where the X-pipe is. Assuming (and that's dangerous, but I will here) the X is in the middle of the car, the 3-pts. should not interfere at all. They attach to the tunnel brace location. I can't think you have an X-pipe under your floorpan where the SFC's would go, there isn't much room there to fit it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge91 View Post
    Is it true that bolt on SFC will squeek and rattle over time? Since there usally more $ over the weld in kind.
    They are costly because of the hardware. Like anything bolted the bolts can work loose (and most folks don't use loctite like they should). You can always weld bolt-in's in down the road if you like. They are pretty much identical for non-convertible cars, just minus the hardware.

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    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    They are costly because of the hardware. Like anything bolted the bolts can work loose (and most folks don't use loctite like they should). You can always weld bolt-in's in down the road if you like. They are pretty much identical for non-convertible cars, just minus the hardware.
    this is right and thay come powder coted. i have the umi 3 point bolt ins and love them. they wint right in look good hug the floor pan nice and tight. i got mine from sam strano and will be going back for the rest of my stuff when i have the cash.

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