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$200 to spend

This is a discussion on $200 to spend within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the General Help category; Should I get the adjustable lower control arms or should I get non-adjustable lower control arms with LCA relocation brackets.I'm ...

  1. #1
    Member SS-Power's Avatar
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    $200 to spend

    Should I get the adjustable lower control arms or should I get non-adjustable lower control arms with LCA relocation brackets.I'm on stock springs and shocks and don't plan on lowering it.
    Last edited by SS-Power; 06-11-2008 at 05:05 PM.

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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    save that $ for good shocks.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

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    Member SS-Power's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS View Post
    save that $ for good shocks.
    So what shocks would you recommend on my stock springs. My car is a daily driver too.

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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    You didn't exactly state what you are trying to change about the car. Every part has a job, and LCA's and brackets do as well.... It just could be that what you are looking to alter won't be helped by those things.

    Under most any circumstance the things like shocks, springs, swaybars matter much more than what LCA or if you have brackets. Again, there are times they can help, but generally only in launching situations. And if you don't have wheelhop issues then they help that much less on the street.
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  6. #6
    rapter34
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    sam so I know this is a really open question but what would you suggest for a good launch? LCA, torque arm, panhard?

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    Sticky tires first. I don't care what you do to the suspension, if the tires suck you won't hook.

    PHB's do nothing for launching, that's a myth. LCA's and a TA can both help, but again it really kind of depends on what the car is doing as is.... and nobody should by any part until the car is on the tires you will be using (good or bad) because they will effect how the car leaves. Doing anything else is like putting a tune on the car using stock stuff, knowing you'll be adding headers and a lid later.

  8. #8
    rapter34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    Sticky tires first. I don't care what you do to the suspension, if the tires suck you won't hook.

    PHB's do nothing for launching, that's a myth. LCA's and a TA can both help, but again it really kind of depends on what the car is doing as is.... and nobody should by any part until the car is on the tires you will be using (good or bad) because they will effect how the car leaves. Doing anything else is like putting a tune on the car using stock stuff, knowing you'll be adding headers and a lid later.
    already got nittro 555's 315 rears . probably why my rear went.

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    Member SS-Power's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    You didn't exactly state what you are trying to change about the car. Every part has a job, and LCA's and brackets do as well.... It just could be that what you are looking to alter won't be helped by those things.

    Under most any circumstance the things like shocks, springs, swaybars matter much more than what LCA or if you have brackets. Again, there are times they can help, but generally only in launching situations. And if you don't have wheelhop issues then they help that much less on the street.
    My car is street driven with no time at the track. I have some traction issue and problems with wheel hop. Justing wasn't sure would should be a good fix.

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    Again, all three can help you here. If you get rid of the hop the traction will improve. The thing is any of the parts mentioned may get rid of the hop alone, or might not and need further parts to do the job.

    I'd have to say start with better LCA's. I'd recommend these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7 because they don't bind the axle in roll but get rid of arm twist and bushing wind-up. You can go with non-adjustables, or adjustables that have poly at both ends, but both of those will keep the axle from articulating as well as it should and the ride and grip on bumps can be more compromised.

    The LCA's are cheaper and easier to install than a TA. And aren't as instrusive to handling balance as LCA brackets run in a low position. IMHO

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    Member SS-Power's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Strano View Post
    Again, all three can help you here. If you get rid of the hop the traction will improve. The thing is any of the parts mentioned may get rid of the hop alone, or might not and need further parts to do the job.

    I'd have to say start with better LCA's. I'd recommend these: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7 because they don't bind the axle in roll but get rid of arm twist and bushing wind-up. You can go with non-adjustables, or adjustables that have poly at both ends, but both of those will keep the axle from articulating as well as it should and the ride and grip on bumps can be more compromised.

    The LCA's are cheaper and easier to install than a TA. And aren't as instrusive to handling balance as LCA brackets run in a low position. IMHO
    I understand what you're saying. I'll start with the LCA first; it's cheaper than the TA. I will take the next step if no improvement is seen. Thanks for your help.

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    Let me know if we can help you with any of those things. I carry UMI parts.

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