Is it wise to do a clutch install yourself?
This is a discussion on Is it wise to do a clutch install yourself? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by Smittro Just skimmin though if you have'nt done the job yet don't forget to change that pilot ...
02-19-2009, 06:15 AM #21
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- ls1 trans am
02-19-2009, 07:45 AM #22
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Parma Heights, Ohio
- 99 Trans Am
02-19-2009, 03:06 PM #23
Two man job on jackstands. Easy job just make sure and use loc tite and if in doubt get on here and ask a question in the middle of it.
02-19-2009, 05:18 PM #24
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Tinker AFB, Oklahoma
- 2000 Camaro Z28
02-20-2009, 02:10 AM #25
At the rear of the crankshaft is a milling made into the center. Inside this milling is the bushing/bearing. Usually made of brass.
Your throwout bearing is on the fork that goes through your bellhousing and over the input shaft (not the same).
There are sometimes "freeze plugs" behind the crank. Since you are not prying on anything I would'nt be too concerned with them going anywhere.
Second with the flywheel and clutch parts (removed FIRST), place the head of your greese gun into the center of the pilot bearing. Then pump slowly holding the greese head tightly the pressure of the gun should push the bushing out from behind it. Kind of like
hydrolic pressure. Once you've removed the bushing, clean out the hole completely (no grease left in hole). Left over grease can cause the new bushing/bearing to be slightly ejected when you replace the trany. This could cause the bushing to fail and wipeout your trany.Or damage the input shaft.
Now to replace.
There are several methods used, here are some of the "right ones"!!!
1.You can use a bearing punch (with drift lip) that fits perfecty inside the bushing to slowly drift the bushing in.
2. Buy the proper clutch alignment tool for your engine this can also sometimes be used to drift the bushing in (slowly).
Now, here are some (wrong) ways.
1. Striking the bare bushing with hammer (wrong). This can destroy the bushing and even sometimes cause crank damage aswell as possibly causeing out of tollerance end play in the crank.
2. Useing just a wooden block, (wrong) it's possible to bind the bushing into the hole and could cause it to fail during operation.
Always "drift" the bushing in with short sharp blows. As the bushing reaches the bottom you will hear it. The tone of your strikes will change and sound more solid.
PS. Sometimes the punch or alignment tool has a lip that keeps the bushing from slideing the whole way onto the punch this (the right punch) with (drifting lip). Its the part of the punch that does the work. The tech name for this punch is called a (bearing punch) If you want to purchase the right punch for the job buy the bushing the same day you purchase the punch to make sure it fits. Also if no one at the parts store knows what you need try asking for a (universal punch)for pressing the (rear) bearing into alternators. I've used this type of punch before and found that it sometimes fits the pilot bushing very well. I would not use a punch that does'nt have this "lip". Again hope this was helpful. Sorry so long winded, just covering the bases. Take your time do it right once, less headaches that way and cheaper too. Good luck!!
Last edited by Smittro; 02-21-2009 at 09:35 PM. Reason: left somethin out
02-21-2009, 12:56 PM #26
Didn't read all post but wanted to add this. DRAIN THE TRANS FLUID FIRST. Saves from having a big mess where you will be working.
02-21-2009, 10:15 PM #27
Ps. I was a plumber so sometimes I'll run up to Lowes or the hardware, and in the plumbing section, ask the person working the pumbing department if they have any two inch, and two and one half inch thread protectors for threaded steel gas pipe just laying around on the stock room floor. The older guys will know exactly what your talking about, they are sometimes master plumbersand have seen thousands of these. Just tell them what you need it for. They may even let you have a couple them off the pipe on the shelves. Again just a few of the tricks I know. I changed some rear wheel drive tranys in 25 minutes without a lift. Helps having All the parts and, ALL the right tools too.
Last edited by Smittro; 02-22-2009 at 08:22 PM.
03-10-2009, 03:26 PM #28
Not to thread jack or anything but I am having a terrible time removing the top bell housing bolt from the tranny. I have tried about everything extensions, flex heads everything I could think of. If anyone has any help please respond, while I still have knuckles in tact...
03-10-2009, 11:23 PM #29
You could also try using an extention on an impact gun. Also if it's dry you can try PB Blaster on it and let it sit overnight. Also if the bolt goes through the whole way check to see if there is a nut on the other side.
Worst case break the bolt by tightening it till it snaps off then drill it out and clean the threads with a tap. Or drill it and try an "easy out" (after you snap it).But my trick has always been heat. Usually if you get something hot enough it will come lose.Good luck.
Last edited by Smittro; 03-10-2009 at 11:26 PM.
03-11-2009, 06:37 PM #30
03-13-2009, 02:49 AM #31
03-15-2009, 06:42 PM #32
03-16-2009, 09:04 PM #33
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