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Ugh...5th. Pricey?

This is a discussion on Ugh...5th. Pricey? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS A more fair statement would be "both have a lot of parts" Truth!!...

  1. #21
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    A more fair statement would be "both have a lot of parts"
    Truth!!

  2. #22
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Appreciate it "v6 doc". This though, is actually the only car I have left atm. I'd love to delve into a tranny to learn but unfortunately, my own personal one isn't something I can afford to do right now. I need to have all work done in a timely fashion, though I'll definitely keep all those blow ups for future references. I PMed the other mods, and I guess as a slight recap:

    Can not downshift 6-5, just won't engage. Doesn't necessarily grind, just simply won't go in.
    Upsift 4-5 used to grind VERY VERY slightly, almost impossible to hear, but went in and worked just fine without hesitation. The very next day it will pop out of 5th once it goes in, but it DOES go in. Sometimes however, going from neutral to fifth doesn't work, idk why. 4-5 does though, and it'll stay in gear if I hold it while I depress the clutch pedal carefully, but if I shift and let go in the normal driving speed, it pops out.

    Questions are basically, Should I purchase that basic t56 kit from gearbox. it includes:
    1st & 2nd three piece synchronizer rings
    3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th carbon kevlar synchronizer rings
    brass reverse synchronizer ring
    front and rear seals
    shift fork pads
    synchronizer keys
    retaining springs
    shifter bushing

    I'm assuming I get all carbon blocker rings with that, which is nice. I'm going to call and ask if they can add a little to the price to upgrade to bronze fork pads instead of the OEM teflon ones (think it's worth the extra money? How important are those pads?) And from (jon I believe?) I should get the 3-4 steel fork.

    I'm hoping I dont need the entire synchro hub but, eh.

    Sorry for the recap, it was mainly for the others who chime in. appreciate all the help guys. 67k miles on this thing, this is the last problem I expected to have lol. Never once have any of my cars had tranny issues lol. But, never have had 45k miles put on by someone else in a "High performance car" either so... o.O

  3. #23
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ant71130 View Post
    Appreciate it "v6 doc". This though, is actually the only car I have left atm. I'd love to delve into a tranny to learn but unfortunately, my own personal one isn't something I can afford to do right now. I need to have all work done in a timely fashion, though I'll definitely keep all those blow ups for future references. I PMed the other mods, and I guess as a slight recap:

    Can not downshift 6-5, just won't engage. Doesn't necessarily grind, just simply won't go in.
    Upsift 4-5 used to grind VERY VERY slightly, almost impossible to hear, but went in and worked just fine without hesitation. The very next day it will pop out of 5th once it goes in, but it DOES go in. Sometimes however, going from neutral to fifth doesn't work, idk why. 4-5 does though, and it'll stay in gear if I hold it while I depress the clutch pedal carefully, but if I shift and let go in the normal driving speed, it pops out.

    Questions are basically, Should I purchase that basic t56 kit from gearbox. it includes:
    1st & 2nd three piece synchronizer rings
    3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th carbon kevlar synchronizer rings
    brass reverse synchronizer ring
    front and rear seals
    shift fork pads
    synchronizer keys
    retaining springs
    shifter bushing

    I'm assuming I get all carbon blocker rings with that, which is nice. I'm going to call and ask if they can add a little to the price to upgrade to bronze fork pads instead of the OEM teflon ones (think it's worth the extra money? How important are those pads?) And from (jon I believe?) I should get the 3-4 steel fork.

    I'm hoping I dont need the entire synchro hub but, eh.

    Sorry for the recap, it was mainly for the others who chime in. appreciate all the help guys. 67k miles on this thing, this is the last problem I expected to have lol. Never once have any of my cars had tranny issues lol. But, never have had 45k miles put on by someone else in a "High performance car" either so... o.O
    lol I have'nt been called the "Doc" in a while..

    To the other I understand, just trying to give you a picture of what's involved..

  4. #24
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Understood man I appreciate it. Sometimes I wish i'd get my taxes back... every day haha

  5. #25
    Chief of his tribe! LSCyaL8R's Avatar
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    The T-56 is the last weak link in my drivetrain. full rear suspension and a 12 bolt got a strange DS a monster clutch, adj master cyl and a billet flywheel.... even have the MGW shifter. the internals of the T-56 are the only thing in the drivetrain that GM put there. I'm TERRIFIED of breaking something in there. This thread does not help that fear. Though the pics and links are helpful and i'd be quite tempted to attempt my own rebuild when it does need it.

    Thanks for the great info guys!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LSCyaL8R View Post
    The T-56 is the last weak link in my drivetrain. full rear suspension and a 12 bolt got a strange DS a monster clutch, adj master cyl and a billet flywheel.... even have the MGW shifter. the internals of the T-56 are the only thing in the drivetrain that GM put there. I'm TERRIFIED of breaking something in there. This thread does not help that fear. Though the pics and links are helpful and i'd be quite tempted to attempt my own rebuild when it does need it.

    Thanks for the great info guys!
    It's what we do..

    I must add,, the picture in post #16 shows a bell housing for the SBC (small block chevy),

    I can't comment if the LT1 t56 has exactly the same internal layout/strength as I have never been inside the two.

    There may have been changes made so the trany could handle the increased HP/TQ of the LS1.

    This was done in a wide variety of front wheel drive car transmissions, but,,

    that did'nt always mean it was going to last behind/beside whatever it was bolted to.

    I can't imagine it would be any different for the RWD vehicles..

    From my experiance that much has been true over the years with various GM transmissions in numerous makes and models.

    Sorry so long winded..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-16-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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