Transmission rebuild underway
This is a discussion on Transmission rebuild underway within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; now once you have everything in the open you want to make sure and inspect everything since it is all ...
04-25-2014, 12:15 PM #101
now once you have everything in the open you want to make sure and inspect everything since it is all torn apart. The manual is going to tell you the same thing. check the gears for broken or missing teeth or for extreme wear. Check the main shaft for wear. Most of the time your not going to have to worry about the main shaft unless something else fails and is tearing up the main shaft.
04-25-2014, 12:23 PM #102
IMG_0226.jpg Now once you get to this part, go ahead and take the rubber seal off the top of the bearing. In my honest opinion i would change this out with a new one. seeing how this is probably the first time the transmissions has been opened depending on what year it is and if it has been rebuilt or not. The places I bought all of my transmission parts were from hawksthirdgen and thegearbox. you can go back and forth between the two to see which prices are better. Also make sure to absolutely buy the snap ring kit. Because you will need to replace them all when doing a complete tear down
04-25-2014, 12:28 PM #103
The snap ring kit I purchased from hawks was 20$ and and came with all the replaceable snap rings and the rubber seal as well and extras like the detent ball and spring, and a wave washer.
04-25-2014, 12:32 PM #104
04-25-2014, 12:41 PM #105
IMG_0231.jpg Then next is 1st gear. Go ahead and remove that and make sure to inspect for wear or broken teeth or gouges. When you inspect the mating surface of the gear and the syncronizer check for wear in the syncronizer as well. Now that 1st gear is off you can also check the needle bearings as well. When inspecting them, make sure to see if there are any missing needles. Take your thumb and very lightly roll the needle bearings around to make sure they will stay secure. If it seems questionable then replace as necessary.
04-25-2014, 12:44 PM #106
04-25-2014, 12:58 PM #107
There is a snap ring above the syncronizer assembly. Go ahead and remove the snap ring. now on to the fun part. Remember the way the syncronizer sits on the Main shaft IMG_0792.jpg note whether or not that groove is facing forward towards the front of the transmission or towards the rear. Now the syncronizer can be tricky. This might need a little extra motivation coming off. Depending sometimes. If the sleeve pops off of the assembly do not worry its fairly simple to put back together once you get it removed. Just make sure to take lots of pictures of everything.
04-25-2014, 01:11 PM #108
Check the syncronizer sleeve for wear on the teeth. Guaranteed that you might have to replace at least one of the syncronizers or all of them depending on what kind of driver you are IMG_0793.jpg This Sleeve is exceptable. If the teeth are severally rounded or are just flat, Thats the gears slipping due to the teeth on the syncronizer assembly or the teeth on the gears themselves or also check the kevlar blocker ring for wear. Also not that now is the time if you want your transmission to hold more power then certain parts need to be removed and replaced with high performance parts.the kevlar blocker rings can be replaced by carbon fiber blocker rings either from hawksthirdgen or thegearbox or ticksperformance. When you all start thinking about turning your transmission into one of these guys to get rebuilt, keep in mind they are not replacing all of this stuff inside. need to read the fine print, because that can get costly witheverything they find wrong inside the tranny.
04-25-2014, 01:15 PM #109
Now in the T-56 service manual it is going to tell you to check the gaps between the blocker rings gears etc. make sure to do this. Because the kevlar blocker rings tend to get worn out. The minimum gap limit is .020
04-25-2014, 01:17 PM #110
04-25-2014, 01:19 PM #111
**Update** I will be back on later to post the rest
04-25-2014, 06:24 PM #112
Here's a quick note for when you do reassembly. Be sure all of those snap rings are tits up. Remember you or somebody someday is going to have to take it back apart. If those snap rings are pointing down it's very difficult to take it back apart.
Last edited by Vexzer; 04-25-2014 at 06:51 PM.
04-25-2014, 07:36 PM #113
Good point man and thanks for sharing. How's your maro doing since the rebuild?
04-25-2014, 07:47 PM #114
Put it together installed in the car and it would not go into the fourth without severe grinding. Turns out I left out the fourth gear blocker ring. I put in the ring and reinstalled the transmission. It works great. Nice to have 365 rear wheel horsepower under my foot again.
04-26-2014, 06:53 PM #115
Much easier said than done
04-27-2014, 07:34 PM #116
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Ugy Lower Corner of AL
Navy Blue Metallic
- 98 T/A w/a little mods...
Joey did you have to replace the master shaft o ring? If so where did you get a replacement? I can only find it as part of a kit for $150 from Tick. DO NOT WANT TO PAY for just one damn needed part. Mine was split in 2.
04-27-2014, 07:42 PM #117
You do not need that O ring. It is only there to ease assemble. Not needed otherwise.
04-27-2014, 07:46 PM #118
Use whatever replacement you find at HF or anywhere.
05-04-2014, 12:19 PM #119
ok bought a 98 vette. needs clutch. heres what ima do =)
COMPETITION CLUTCH Clutch - Transmission | Clutch Kit - Performance
Perf Clutch Kit - Domestic RWD
Unit of Measure:
Part Number: 365+7562
Mfg Part Number: 4173-2600
$534.60 Sugg. Retail Price
$431.13 NOPI Price
Performance Clutch Kit - Stage 4
8cyl - LS1
B FACINGS ON BOTH SIDES - Domestic - RWD
The CCI 2600 Segmented Cerametalic Kit is the ultimate street strip combination for the enthusiastic road warrior and weekend racer - This assembly delivers increased torque capacity of 80-100% while maintaining reasonably smooth engagement - This is accomplished by maintaining a Marcel wafer and a sprung hub and utilizing a segmented cerametailic friction material on both sides - HP Ratings: 650hp (Ford) and 700hp (GM)
and also this
T56 Six Speed Transmission >
T56 Stage 2 Rebuild Kit
View Cart (0) | Checkout
T56 Stage 2 Rebuild Kit
Availability: This product is on backorder. Please feel free to check back periodically for updates or call 734-793-0727.
This kit will fit Camaro, Firebird, Viper & Cobra T56 transmissions. Please specify which application you have.
This Stage 2 kit is highly recommended for T56 transmissions to increase horse power to the 600 - 650 hp range. Installation of these parts provides optimum high RPM shifting.
•Upgraded 1-6 carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings
•Reverse synchronizer ring
•Bronze fork pads for the 1-2 & 3-4
•Billet keys for the 3-4 with upgraded springs
•Billet keys for the 1-2 with upgraded springs
•Bronze shifter bushing / isolator cup
•1-2 synchronizer assembly
•3-4 synchronizer assembly
•Snap ring kit
•3-4 steel shift fork
•Stock 5-6 & reverse fork pads
•Stock 5-6 & reverse keys & springs
•front & rear seals
•T56 transmission exploded view
doin it all myself of course. gimme ur input plz, aluminum fly or steel?
05-05-2014, 06:53 AM #120
If you live in a small town and are isolated from a regular transmission parts provider those kits have some value. The only thing those kits have that you don't get out of regular transmission supplier are the billet keys, the brass slider and the shifter bushing. In my case after I got mine from tick they did not fit Tick told me to hand file them to make them work. Otherwise nothing you were buying in that kit is anything other than a stock replacement part.
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