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T56 Clutch not disengaging after new clutch installed

This is a discussion on T56 Clutch not disengaging after new clutch installed within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I just wiped out my original LS1 on a 1999 SS due to the oil pump failing. I had it ...

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    T56 Clutch not disengaging after new clutch installed

    I just wiped out my original LS1 on a 1999 SS due to the oil pump failing. I had it sent to Jasper for a rebuild. While it was out, I had the shop replace the clutch for me. When I picked the car up it was very hard to get into 1st and reverse. The clutch is not fully disengaging. It has a new clutch, pressure plate, TOB, master, and slave. Pretty much everything is new. It didn't have any issues shifting when I dropped it off, so I believe it is related to the new clutch install.

    The shop says that I need to drive it a while to wear the pressure plate down a bit. Has anybody heard of this? Does it actually need to break in a bit?

    I've read a lot about spacers on the slave and adjustable masters, but I'm not in a position that I can do that type of work myself right now. I'm also expecting that the shop I took it to originally will be responsible for making this thing right. They want me to drive it around a few weeks and bring it back to make sure there are no leaks on the new engine. Once that is done, I'll need to get this clutch issue resolved.

    Does anybody know if the clutch will actually start disengaging better as it gets some use? How long should I give it? Is there a risk of damaging the tranny if I drive it like this for a while? Also, do you think the adjustable master would correct this problem if I need to make a change?

    Any help provided is much appreciated!

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Sounds like an installation error to me. A new clutch should not have an issue disengaging. They are blowing smoke up your ass. A new clutch installation will cause the clutch pedal to be more stiff and engagement closer to the floor. However, after some time, this will ease up some. That's really about it. I have never heard of a clutch not disengaging correctly because it is new.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Sounds like a mis-installed clutch to me. It should be just the opposite of what they are saying. It should be smooth as butter to get into gear. The only thing I would think would be different is if you got a high performance clutch, it would be harder on your leg to push the clutch pedal in, due to the higher spring pressure of the H/P clutch.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I have a Monster stg4 with a Tick MC and it feels just the same as the LS7 clutch did. And this is coming from a guy that has leg issues and is still able to drive a clutch.


    I agree with the others, take back to shop and tell them to fix it. Hell drive it and they should see/feel.


    I'm wondering if they installed shims and if so put to many.


    One more ?? to clarify. When you say it's hard to shift into 1st or Rev, do you mean it feels like it's binding and you need to rev slightly to get it in gear?
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 09-22-2014 at 09:12 AM.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    I'm wondering if maybe the shop either accidently (or on purpose) put in a different trans? Maybe by accident or on purpose. It almost sounds like the current trans you have in your car has bad internals. Or maybe its just the shift cables themselves are twisted up and binding. Its def not installed correctly either way.

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    It's actually feels like it's binding a bit. Once or twice I've heard it grinding like when you try to shift without pushing the clutch in. It wasn't a transmission shop I took it to. It is just a general purpose shop. I don't think they would do anything to screw me on purpose, but it may not be their bailiwick.

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    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    Is the new clutch master cylinder adjustable? If so, it just needs adjusting. If it's a stock master cylinder, then maybe when they installed it, they removed the little ball on the end of the rod that pushes in the fork inside the trans. (The ball is actually part of a clamp that holds the rod in place during shipment and storage) If it was removed, it would make it about 1/4-1/2 out of adjustment and cause this issue.

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