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Sticking clutch pedal write-up

This is a discussion on Sticking clutch pedal write-up within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I will be working on this fix this weekend. I have that 'lazy soft pedal' when I run it hard. ...

  1. #101
    Member 6.0LiterImportEater's Avatar
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    Phantom Black Metallic
    2006 Pontiac GTO

    I will be working on this fix this weekend. I have that 'lazy soft pedal' when I run it hard. Hoping the fluid swap and bleeding will be sufficient. I bought the car a few months back with only 22K on it and the fluid was black with chunks then. Been 'turkey basting' the resevoir which only temporary solves the problem for a day or too. Bro has the same problem so good time to get both done.

    Good info and thanks!

  2. #102
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    99 Camaro Z28

    Here is my problem

    I have a 99 Z28 with 87000 miles on it.

    The clutch pedal started getting spongier and spongier. It just became really soft. Then on occasion it would stick, I could pump it, or put my foot behind it and it would come up. Then it would be fine. Now it sticks almost everytime i push it in. When I release the pedal it pops up about 1/4 of the way and sticks, and sometimes it just gets stuck there and its really hard to get out of gear. Any ideas. I dont drive aggressively that much at all, most the time I drive like an old lady to get better mpgs

    I got a quote of $1800 for complete clutch, slave, and master and install does that sound reasonable at all. I dont want to do all that if I dont need to. But its such a pain to get to the slave, that if it is the slave I feel i should do the clutch.

  3. #103
    Junior Member siggs229's Avatar
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    New clutch

    Thats sounds like a lot of money to replace the clutch especially if they are stock replacments parts. For that amount of money I would expect a dual clutch setup. Its not that hard at all to replace a clutch. Look online for the hardware that you listed and see how cheap it really is. How much of the $1800 is labor ?


    Rob

  4. #104
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    99 Camaro Z28

    labor is around $700. I have called four shops here in hawaii. All shops quote me $700-800 for the complete clutch kit. I called O'Reilly/Checker and they said $500 but i would have to wait 3 weeks, for it to come on a boat, or paying $200-300 to fly over here. That is why the cost is so high.

  5. #105
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    1999 Camaro Z28 (SS kit)

    I paid $1k in San Diego out the door
    Went with Z06 clutch, slave, and master...got all from GM disc site gmpartsdirect.com
    I think it was a waste though...should have gone with aftermarket clutch
    Under NX 150 wet, I still get some clutch stick

  6. #106
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    Get the part numbers from your local GM delear, and then look them up online to get the reduced price...you will save $100s this way.

  7. #107
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    99 Camaro Z28

    shipping to hawaii is what kills me. Labor everywhere around here is $100 an hour. and its bout 7 hours of labor, thats what 7 different shops said including the firestone on base. The cost of the parts is ridiculous because shipping. To get it fixed asap which I need, it a lot to get the parts. If I could wait 3 weeks I could save about $400 but I leave the island in 3 wks, and I am trying to sell this car.

  8. #108
    Junior Member siggs229's Avatar
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    Clutch problem

    Well that would explain why it cost so much for you. I had know idea you lived in Hawaii. If you just going to sell it find mechanic on the side to fix it for you. Try to find a guy that works at one of these shops and ask him if he would do it on the side. You dont need any special tools or equpiment to do the work. He will make more money and you will save money. If you werent going to sell it I would have told you to upgrade the clutch. My car being a 2002 SS came with a ZO6 clutch. With just a tune, bolt on's and a full exhaust Im putting 362rwhp on the dyno I am starting to over power it. Hope you find what your looking for, good luck.


    Rob

  9. #109
    Junior Member Blue LS1 Trans Am's Avatar
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    This is an awesome piece of information man, thanks a lot, I just had to go through all of that and its a hassle when you dont know how to do it.

  10. #110
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    Smile

    Best Thread Ever. Ive been dealing with a sticky clutch pedal for the last few months and havent been able to get anywhere with it until I found this thread. I'm doing a flush first thing tomorrow morning

  11. #111
    Junior Member ls1Rich's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro SS

    Great write-up

    Great write-up. I believe this is my problem. When the clutch gets hot, it slips and you can smell it burning. I dumped the clutch at 3 grand and the car did nothing... Probably because the clutch pedal is sticking. I'll be checking the fluid.

  12. #112
    Junior Member siggs229's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro SS

    Clutch

    I have never had a problem with my clutch pedal sticking. I believe they changed the slave cylinder for 2000-2002. I have had my clutch slip during high rpm full throttle shifts though. I changed the clutch fluid with royal purple and it seems to have worked so far. The bottom line is the clutches in the camaros arent that strong to begin with. Like I stated in a earlier post in 2002 the Camaro SS came with a Z06 clutch and its still pretty wimpy once you start to add some more power to the car. Good luck the rest of you.

  13. #113
    Junior Member ls1Rich's Avatar
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    What clutch would you recommend for around 400 HP?

  14. #114
    Junior Member siggs229's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1Rich View Post
    What clutch would you recommend for around 400 HP?
    Rear wheel HP or at the flywheel. My SS makes 362 HP and 378 TQ on the dyno at the wheels. That's about 425 HP at the flywheel. If you can afford it I would go with a dual clutch setup. Its expensive but well worth it. You basically don't have to worry about your clutch ever again, some can handle 800 hp plus. The major advantage besides the holding power is it has the same pedal feel as the stock one. Who wants to have a workout when your driving ? I try to do things right the first time. I like McLeod products. Ram clutches are good too. You could also use a LS7 clutch to save some money. Just read what HP the clutch is rated for. And don't be cheap here, why bother having to change it again because you saved a few $. I hope this helped.

    Rob

  15. #115
    Junior Member ls1Rich's Avatar
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    Makes sense

    Rob,
    Thanks for the reply - dual clutch - I won't skimp. Went I dump the clutch I want everything to hook up.

  16. #116
    long and strong Willfully Armed's Avatar
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    My pedal has only stuck once.
    Car has 96k on it now, GM LS7 clutch, master and slave was installed at 75k.

    A month ago, I had been taking the wifes aunt for a ride, a WOT 1st gear launch from 10mph and a hard shift into second and she was ready to crawl iut the window. So I settle down and roll nicely to I-35 and wail it on the onramp. Shifting from 3rd to 4th under WOT, my pedal stayed at the floor. I about freaked, but maintained composure and hooked the pedal with my left toe and yanked it back out.

    Drove it hard today for the first time since, and it acted fine.

    This is my first time parousing this thread, will definately be changing fluid and drilling soon.

  17. #117
    Member Blue Thunder 42's Avatar
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    98 SS Camaro

    Jon B this is a great thread

    As I said this is a great thread and I've been trying to fix my sticky clutch problem since last summer now.
    First off car, 98 SS 60,500mis
    Replaced clutch with LS6 with lightened flywheel from SLP back in 2007 with about 55,000 miles on it. Went to the 1/4 during the summer for some runs and the clutch pedal got stuck to the floor between 3-4 gear. Pulled it up with my toe, worked fine if I wasn't too hard on it.
    1st--I had never changed the fluid and it was really nasty. So I soaked all the fluid out with a couple paper towels. Replaced with new dot4 and bleed system. Seemed fine, "seemed"
    2nd--Did drill out mod of the cable last summer, still had problem and the transmission synchros where going and the 3&4 fork was messed up and couldn't get it into 5th gear. So I had the transmission rebuilt last year that fixed all the shifting problems "had them change on out the clutch slave while they had the whole thing apart". But high rpm shifting was still getting the clutch pedal stuck.
    3rd--Also last summer I put in a McLeod master cylinder, much improved version over the stock one. Very beefy and it just looks nice, too bad you can't see it. I changed the fluid out and and rebleed the system a couple of times.
    I still have the clutch sticking and during driving it today I discovered if the pedal is up and I get on it hard but hold it at higher rpm the pedal will not go down either with out alot of force or the rpm's come down enough. and it sticks to the floor between gears still.
    Ok I have a couple of theories
    One- the fluid was so bad when I finally changed it "is it possible", that old burned up stuff is stuck in the clutch slave and replacing the fluid doesn't clean it out?
    Two- bumps off the first theory, when I had them change the clutch slave when the tranmission was rebuilt last summer TWO shops where involved. The tranmission shop was very good I thought. The shop I took the car to didn't do tranmissions and that shop looked very crowded in a bad way and the guy was young (no offense) but he didn't return calls or keep me informed of the progress of my repairs. He (was/did) change the clutch slave cylinder out while it was at the tranmission shop.
    I was charged for a slave cylinder but I feel that other guy might not have put a new one in. Because after all that work that's been done there's no stone upturned.

    Three-should I try bleeding it more "haven't tried mighty vac" and replace the fluid again? Also since I put in the McLeod master cylinder it stated you shouldn't use dot4 with it "I believe" but not positive. Try DOT4?
    Or put another clutch slave cylinder in?
    Sorry for such a long post, anybody, any thoughts?
    I can't run 1/4 mile until this thing is figured out
    Last edited by Blue Thunder 42; 03-20-2010 at 08:34 PM.

  18. #118
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    Sorry Blue Thunder I'm not trying to jump past your questions. I'm having some of the same issues and also cannot go to the track until I figure them out. I have an 02 Trans Am with 41,000 miles on it. I replaced the slave and master about 1000 miles ago, but when driving it aggressively the clutch still stuck to the floor between 2nd and 3rd. I decided to do the drill mod and it did help, but I could still only shift once before the pedal would be stuck to the floor or wouldn't come up enough to allow me to shift again. I recently put on a Tick Master Clutch Cylinder which is adjustable and the problem still exists. I did however adjust the master clutch cylinder out and it helped alot, but I still have to pause between 2nd and 3rd before I can make the shift if I'm driving really aggressively. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the slave was bad so it needs to be replaced again? I was going to adjust the master clutch cylinder out a little more but am afraid I'm going to end up damaging my clutch and pressure plate if I adjust it too much. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by baker_0_2; 03-29-2010 at 04:33 PM.

  19. #119
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baker_0_2 View Post
    Sorry Blue Thunder I'm not trying to jump past your questions. I'm having some of the same issues and also cannot go to the track until I figure them out. I have an 02 Trans Am with 41,000 miles on it. I replaced the slave and master about 1000 miles ago, but when driving it aggressively the clutch still stuck to the floor between 2nd and 3rd. I decided to do the drill mod and it did help, but I could still only shift once before the pedal would be stuck to the floor or wouldn't come up enough to allow me to shift again. I recently put on a Tick Master Clutch Cylinder which is adjustable and the problem still exists. I did however adjust the master clutch cylinder out and it helped alot, but I still have to pause between 2nd and 3rd before I can make the shift if I'm driving really aggressively. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the slave was bad so it needs to be replaced again? I was going to adjust the master clutch cylinder out a little more but am afraid I'm going to end up damaging my clutch and pressure plate if I adjust it too much. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    If all the hydraulics are in great shape as you stated , then the only thing left that it could be is a weak pressure plate. You spin the pressure plate up to 6000 rpms and the centrifugal loads on the pressure plate might be greater then the return load from the pressure plate springs.
    Other then that, what fluid are you using in your hydraulic clutch? DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and should be used.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    If all the hydraulics are in great shape as you stated , then the only thing left that it could be is a weak pressure plate. You spin the pressure plate up to 6000 rpms and the centrifugal loads on the pressure plate might be greater then the return load from the pressure plate springs.
    Other then that, what fluid are you using in your hydraulic clutch? DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and should be used.
    I am using DOT 3. I'm getting ready to purchase a Monster level 3 clutch assembly so hopefully that'll fix the problem. I'll put DOT 4 in it this time and hopefully my problems will be solved. Thanks alot for your help.

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