Spec3+ ordered 5 mins ago

**Corey1987** · 12-19-2008, 08:56 PM

Well my stock clutch went to hell this past weekend, the center hub of the clutch spun inside of the rest of the clutch so I ordered a Spec 3+ from LMP Racing. Anything I should know before i put it in?

**BowTied** · 12-22-2008, 04:39 PM

I don't recall anything too tricky. The tranny is pretty light!

Don't know how much you know already...but I'd change the slave cylinder while you are in their. No way I was going to get in their twice! I got the line off the Cylinder with a couple of small screw drivers...others have had far less success. If you can get the cheap plastic tool ahead of time and you don't like risk or frustration...get it!

**Corey1987** · 12-23-2008, 04:53 AM

already got the trans out and changed the slave in april, just gotta figire out if i need the shim or not that is suppose to come with the spec kit.

**BowTied** · 12-23-2008, 08:56 AM

I am not 100% sure, but I am at least 90-ish, we put it in. But I went Al. Flywheel and Al Clutch I seem to remember measuring with calipers and I think that was how we got comfortable with the set-up. Comparing the thickness of the clutches. Mine works great.

**BowTied** · 12-23-2008, 09:05 AM

I wish I took pictures of the different jobs I have done. Guys really don't need them as much as it just makes you more comfortable in going at it!

Also for anybody thinking Aluminum. Make sure you have grabbed 40 horses of bolt-ons to throw on the car first and I recommend finding lighter rims and tires and I'd go carbon fiber shaft. I think mine comes out of the hole with much less problems than I have heard many guys with Al having. I think between the wheels and the shaft I saved like 15-16 lbs of dynamic weight. (Besides the clutch and flywheel.)

**Freebs** · 12-26-2008, 03:35 PM

Check to make sure your pressure plate is not bent/warped. I have ordered a number of spec clutch set ups for customers as well as my own vehicles but they do tend to have a problem with the pressure plates being warped from the factory. But take it from me if its good when you get it or if you need to have it replaced they are outstanding clutches hence why even though I have had a number of them come to me warped I continue to use them and suggest them for people.

3+ is a good stage as well, not sure if you have ever used an aftermarket clutch before but do the proper break in on it and you will hate driving for the first bit but once you break it in and get use to it, it’s no different than stock other than when you need it to grab she will grab very well.

As well like BowTied said, do the slave cylinder while you’re in there. It’s a kick in the balls when you get it all back together just to find out the slave cylinder has gone on you.

Also when it comes to Aluminum flywheels I would be hesitant. If you are building an all out racer it’s a no brainer but for anything daily driven in stop and go traffic I would think twice on it. It will help you spin up quicker but that rotational mass does help some times. Now I do not do the tuning on the vehicles but my guy who does has had a few problems with vettes that have had aluminum flywheels installed with them in neutral they sometimes tend to bog out and die. Whereas with the stock flywheel any miss fire there is still enough rotational mass to keep it going smoothly. Just my thoughts and experiences there as I have personally used them before and do like the light spin up feel it gives it but it’s up to you.

**BowTied** · 12-27-2008, 03:31 AM

That is good info from Freebs.

The general and very good advice is only go aluminum if you are racing. They are really preferred with circle-trackers.

I do not race besides blowing away some Stangs here and there (I do not know why it is always those guys.) All I have is the EGR byp., MAF, SLP LT Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, Flow Master, and LSX TB and Intake. For power creation. But for pwr conservation...I'm light in the drive train, from flywheel to rubber. (Only other mods are adjust. shocks and lower controls...you don't want a bouncy rear w/ this set-upeither.)

But my goal is an 11 sec car that gets 35mpg, I think I'm going to get it. This is not the goal of most. I'd say most guys are trying to get a reliable 390 to 440 HP wit similar torque and be happy to get 24 to 26 mpg hwy.

With the increased ponies to comp for inertial mass mine launches pretty good and shifts very well (I still avoid stop and go traffic). I can now sit with no throttle and drop it in 1st...I can't drop in around 12-1400 where I'd like to. But I launch really good at 1700 to 2000.

BTW - most guys warp the Al clutch from repeated hard launches. I avoid that...you only have to launch once to burn a Cobra. I had one try to pull me in Charlotte on an I-85 merge ramp (pre LSX Combo) 2 lanes from the turn that merged into around a hundred yards of concrete (and it must have been a 2.5 degree down slope). He picked the wrong car with the perfect set-up for that run (I was doing like 7mph and he was a fender ahead). I packed his lunch and slapped his mommy on the rump. After I grabbed 3rd I looked back for him (nearly twisting my neck off) he was more than 11 lengths back. I take it he gave up when I grabbed 2nd. You gotta hate it when you got an expensive shiny toy that is brand new get clocked by a $15K Chevy.