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spec stage 2 install

This is a discussion on spec stage 2 install within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; hey everyone, i have been looking at the other posts here and have got the crap scared out of me. ...

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    spec stage 2 install

    hey everyone, i have been looking at the other posts here and have got the crap scared out of me. I ordered a spec stage 2 clutch. Now it looks like i need to have my ducks in a row to start with. I have an 01 WS6 with 96k. The factory clutch is toast.Since i put it in, if I dump it, its hot right now. It looks like i need a steel or billet flywheel? Do i need to really change any slave or master cylinder? And shims? What am i gonna need to expect. I can pull the tranny and bolt everything back up ok, but I really i mean really only want to do this one time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It would also stop an Fbody being seen on a wrecker. Again, thxs

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    My advice is sell the SPEC and buy a better clutch.

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    Member cuzimoto's Avatar
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    you don't need to change master, butt definatly change the slave while your there. The shim is great, puts your pedal engage disengage right at top of travel so it's easier to power shift cause you don't have to go to the floor with the pedal. Bleeding is probably hardest part. I use a vacuum pump with a special adapter on the resevoir which doesn't help you any, so have fun with that part. I've had my stock clutch, one ZO6, and am on my second Spec stage 3 with original Master, with drill mod. Works great. GOOD LUCK.

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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    hey everyone, i have been looking at the other posts here and have got the crap scared out of me. I ordered a spec stage 2 clutch. Now it looks like i need to have my ducks in a row to start with. I have an 01 WS6 with 96k. The factory clutch is toast.Since i put it in, if I dump it, its hot right now. It looks like i need a steel or billet flywheel? Do i need to really change any slave or master cylinder? And shims? What am i gonna need to expect. I can pull the tranny and bolt everything back up ok, but I really i mean really only want to do this one time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It would also stop an Fbody being seen on a wrecker. Again, thxs
    If your doing it, do it right, replace your master and slave, and a new rear main seal, as well as a tranny fluid change, maybe a new tranny mount.

    Spec is a fine clutch once you get past 6-800 miles break in. Till then, it chatters like crazy. I did not need any shims when I put a spec 3+ in my 99 Ta and my 03 Cobra, both clutches worked out great. Just dont get on it for at least 600 miles, no matter what anyone recomends. I went with the spec brand aluminum flywheel on both of my installs. You have to re-learn how to drive them with a alum flywheel, but its worth it when you learn it. You might look into the drill mod as well, that will really give you solid shifts.

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    Member cuzimoto's Avatar
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    There's no reason to change the master. That would be like saying I'm changing my water pump so I might as well change my radiator, or I'm changing calipers so I should change the master.Just extra $ and work with no increase in perf. The shim for sure is not required butt makes a noticable improvement in power shifting ability. Drill mod for sure.

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    since my car is an 01 i already have the better slave, right? and i will look into this mysterious "drill mod" you speak of
    Quote Originally Posted by SiggyZ View Post
    Try roasting your crow. It'll be easier to get down.
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    I like grilling mine with a nice brown sugar based rub

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    since my car is an 01 i already have the better slave, right? and i will look into this mysterious "drill mod" you speak of
    http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

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    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    thank you for the help i will def do that.

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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    thank you for the help i will def do that.
    I believe Mcleod now sells a line with the drill mod basically done already also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cuzimoto View Post
    There's no reason to change the master. That would be like saying I'm changing my water pump so I might as well change my radiator, or I'm changing calipers so I should change the master.Just extra $ and work with no increase in perf. The shim for sure is not required butt makes a noticable improvement in power shifting ability. Drill mod for sure.
    Those are both examples of something that may fail and not effect anything else. If your clutch master fails you could do some major damage to other clutch parts. There is a big reason to change out the clutch master, unless your car has less than 50-60 k miles on it. Trust me, I know of several master cylinders failing at 60-90k miles, then it could ruin your brand new clutch on a power shift. All you will smell is burnt clutch and your flywheel will be glazed over because your master cylinder didnít engage or disengage correctly. Imagine the damage you could do to your clutch if you revved up your engine and put your car in gear and then very slowly let out on the clutch, you would burn the hell out of it. That is exactly what can happened if your master cylinder fails on you in a power shift. They go all of the sudden too, often with no warning. The master from gm is not that expensive, and comes with a new line to the slave cylinder as well. Trust me, the slave and master are a smart thing to do on a clutch hydraulic clutch change.

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