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Slipping clutch, time for a new one.

This is a discussion on Slipping clutch, time for a new one. within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; So, the title should be pretty self explanatory. When I get on it in 1st and 2nd, once I get ...

  1. #1
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    Slipping clutch, time for a new one.

    So, the title should be pretty self explanatory. When I get on it in 1st and 2nd, once I get up in the upper range of the RPMs my clutch starts slipping. I very rarely beat on the car, only once or twice in the 2 years I've had it have I really done anything that I'd figure would really wear the clutch. I've only got like 35000 miles, so I was hoping the clutch would last longer.

    Is there some adjustment that can me made to prolong what I've got now?

    If not, I probably won't just go with an OEM, but instead upgrade. I don't want anything too grippy or anything, as this car is a daily driver and is stock for the time being (though in in '06 I plan to take it off the road and begin mods).

    WIth that in mind, I'd like some recomendations. Please include anything else I should go ahead and do. I've heard that when you do a clutch you should do the slave cylinder as well. Is this correct? Do I need to buy anything that doesn't come with the clutch you're recomending. What type of cost am I looking at for parts? Labor?

    Thanks guys.

  2. #2
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    I just bought a new SPEC 3 Plus kit with new flywheel and a upgraded master and slave and spent $1150 parts. Labor I don't pay cause I will do it myself. I would go with the Z06 clutch or a Spec 1 or 2 if your gonna stay stock for a while.

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    Yeah, I really can't do the labor myself. I'm an intelligent and handy guy, with a technical background; but I lack the tools and garage space. Over a G in parts? That seems kinda high...

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    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gashkerwin
    Yeah, I really can't do the labor myself. I'm an intelligent and handy guy, with a technical background; but I lack the tools and garage space. Over a G in parts? That seems kinda high...
    Yeah it is a lot of money but that is clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, slace cylinder, and master cylinder. It was a little more than the standard Spec 3. I could have cut about $150 if I had went with it.

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    How can u tell the clutch is slipping?

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    Well, thats pretty easy. Say you're at a roll at 20 mph in first and you punch it. If your RPMs increase and your speed doesn't but the tires aren't spinning, you've got yourself a slipping clutch. Also, you can't miss the smell of a slipping clutch. Its just awful. If you feel the car hesitating when you're accelerating hard, thats probably the clutch slipping a little bit.

    Unless its really bad, you might have a bad clutch for thousands of miles and you just won't notice it if you never really open the car up. I found out my clutch was slipping when I was launching. The wheels were hooked up, but the car didn't rocket off the line. I've since put about 2500 miles on with no other problems, but I am starting to notice the problem is getting slightly worse.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Clutch Play

    My major question is "Do you have play in the clutch pedal? A clutch will slip if it is worn out, if it is badly glazed from a bad stick driver driver smoking it too many times, or there is no play in the top of the travel of the pedal which prevents complete contact of the disc with the pressure plate and flywheel. Is there sufficient play in the top of the pedal??

    I have a post also out there, but very little response. I am pretty sure my clutch is not worn out, as I can very easily chirp second and third and it works just like it always has, but I have almost no play left in the pedal. I am getting worried that if I lose all play, it may start to slip. I know they are supposed to be "Self-Adjustable", but I was wondering if there is a manual adjustment procedure possible as a backup in case the automatic adjustment does not work. I have looked under the hood, under the car where the hydraulic line goes into the clutch housing, and under the dash where the clutch pedal attaches to the car. I can see no adjustment possibilities anywhere. Anyone know if there is any way to manually adjust the clutch play???

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    I do have some clutch play before the friction point. Under normal driving, my clutch seems no different than ever. If I'm in first at say a 15 or 20 mph roll and I gun it, the car takes off like normal, but then when I hit 4k or 4500 or so (its hard to tell since the RPM climb so fast and there's still the consideration of watching where I'm going) RPM the car feels like it starts to hesitate, but the RPMs continue to rise. ASR isn't kicking off, so I know its not that, and the only thing that makes sense is the clutch slipping. I've never really raced the car, only done a half dozen or so hard launches, and I'm generally pretty gentle with the car during my daily driving routine; it hardly ever sees more than 2500 RPM, so I'm surprised my clutch isn't holding up better after only 37000 miles.

    Thanks for the input.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    HI,
    When yout foot is off the clutch pedal and you touch it lightly with your foot, does it move in easily for an inch or two before it gets stiff? I am looking to see if you have play at the top of the pedal, not before friction starts when you are letting it out. Hope we are on the same page here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gashkerwin
    I do have some clutch play before the friction point.

    There is at least an inch of travel, yes.

  11. #11
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Are you the original owner? A 4th possibility is weak springs in the pressure plate. Sounds to me like you have a bad or worn clutch since you have play in the pedal. If you are not the original owner, someone else could have glazed it or beat the crap out of it by dropping it too many times. Maybe check out the SLP web site. Sometimes they have specials.

  12. #12
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    HI Again,

    Another possibility. You could have high spots and/or heat cracks on your flywheel. A new clutch may not totally solve your problem. You may need to have the flywheel resurfaced (usually costs around 50 bucks), or while you are in there, you could get a new light weight one which weighs like 8 pounds less (and I think is stronger due to the alloy used). Don't know the price though. You will have to research that.

  13. #13
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    If deneros are an issue for you right now, I would just be real easy on it from now on. Stay away from the high RPM's. You will probably get a few thousand more miles out of it before things get real slippery.

    I had an unfortunate incident a few years back where the springs in the pressure plate just plain ole' broke and I could not even push in the clutch pedal. This was not an LS1 car. I got stranded and had to have the car towed. I doubt this will happen to you though, but if it does, you know what the issue is. Good luck with your issue.

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    Yeah, thanks for the input. I'm not the original owner, but I've had the car for 2 years and 17000 of the 37000 miles on it. He said he never beat the car up, and with the shape it was in when it came to me, I tend to believe him.

    I plan to just go ahead and get a new clutch put in. I have a mechanic friend who also has a camaro and he's going to do the work, so its just a matter of getting the parts. I'll probably get it all taken care of in a few weeks. For now I'm just being gentle on it. No need to beat it up.

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