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PLease dont flame me for asking about clutch bleed

This is a discussion on PLease dont flame me for asking about clutch bleed within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I'm searching while waiting for an answer to this ? Does anyone have a link to a good prodceure for ...

  1. #1
    Western Maryland LS1's
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    PLease dont flame me for asking about clutch bleed

    I'm searching while waiting for an answer to this ? Does anyone have a link to a good prodceure for bleeding clutch hydraulics? My car is on the lift right now and I dont know where the bleeder screw is. Is it the allen screw above the line?
    Red 99 SS, TT, M6, Clear Lid, GMS MAF, unrestricted Borla CB,
    Lots of Free Mods, Edelbrock Ultimate handling suspension kit
    is an awesome upgrade for these cars!

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    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    Western Maryland LS1's
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    Thanks

    My search turned up what I needed anf I got it bled and some fresh fluid in there. Its working much better but I still need a clutch

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Tell me about it. I'm STILL cleaning out my master cylinder. The fluid IS getting lighter the more I clean it out but I want it completely clear. I gotta get the brake sucker at my job and evacuate the whole system. No biggie.

  5. #5
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Just suck out the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey bayster and fill with fresh. Then when you bleed the system it doesn't take as long to get the old stuff out. Works great on the brake system too when it's time to change that fluid as well.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    This isn't ls1tech...don't worry about asking a question man.....

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    Bone it like you own it FORD RECOVERY EXPERT's Avatar
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    thats why this section is here.....

  8. #8
    Western Maryland LS1's
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    Thanks Guys

    My search and the link provide did get me through uncharted waters without a hitch. My best friend Bill, (Mr. Mopar), and his lift and this site enabled me to get the job done. First flush in 80,000 miles and the clutch pedal is "back baby"!

    Bill and I went out for some how shall I say "spirited driving" today - me in my SS and him in his Viper and i never once lost the clutch pedal through a lot of shifting to try and offset the torque of the Viper coming out of some wild turns in Western MD.

    I still think I'm due for a clutch but will install an aftermarket master cyl. and do the drill mod first and bench bleed it, then install an LS7 clutch and 01-02 slave later so if there are any issues troubleshooting will be easier by breaking the job in half.

    I'll let you know how it turns out but it will be a while as i have to get the 97 BMW e38 in for DIY service - she just turned 251,000 miles.

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    Junior Member EPMD's Avatar
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    Bleeding Clutch

    Anyone have a good idea of what the best fluid to use is. I've been using valvoline synthetic, but I recently read somewhere that GM says not to use synthetic in their hydraulic clutch set ups.

  10. #10
    Western Maryland LS1's
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    I used the Valvoline DOT 3 - DOT 4

    I just grabbed it off the shelf because of brand name recognition and then later saw it recommended by some folks here on LS1.com. Reasonably priced and readily available.

  11. #11
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPMD View Post
    Anyone have a good idea of what the best fluid to use is. I've been using valvoline synthetic, but I recently read somewhere that GM says not to use synthetic in their hydraulic clutch set ups.
    I just use the standard Dot 3 or Dot 4 stuff and it works fine. The only time I use the synthetic brake fluid is for the older cars that sit alot, since it fights against moisture and corrosion, a brake system's enemy.
    I find I don't have to change it as often and the lines don't corrode from the inside out. I also found a hard pedal feel for a longer time. When moisture was involved the pedals would get spongy.

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    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Just suck out the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey bayster and fill with fresh. Then when you bleed the system it doesn't take as long to get the old stuff out. Works great on the brake system too when it's time to change that fluid as well.
    x2!!

  13. #13
    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    This isn't ls1tech...don't worry about asking a question man.....
    Again X2!!

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    ^ X3 , lolol

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    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I just use the standard Dot 3 or Dot 4 stuff and it works fine. The only time I use the synthetic brake fluid is for the older cars that sit alot, since it fights against moisture and corrosion, a brake system's enemy.
    I find I don't have to change it as often and the lines don't corrode from the inside out. I also found a hard pedal feel for a longer time. When moisture was involved the pedals would get spongy.
    Actually it's hard to find a non-synthetic brake fluid in DOT 3 or 4. Most on the shelves are synthetic to produce a much higher boiling point wet and dry.
    I do and have always ( since evolved) used the DOT4 for the higher boiling point since our slaves are in the bellhousing and subjected to alot of heat. FOr the brakes, well I did some testing. Try on a 50 degree day, car cold form overnight, going 0-100/ back to 0 and immediately remove wheels and measure temp of brake lines near caliper, caliper itself,brake fluid itself and coming up with temps in teh 300 range a DOT 4 was my only reassurance against brake fade at the end of the 1/4 or provked highway run. I figured ( haven't tested) that if the slave is subjected to as much heat from the clutch and flywheel that it was only reasonable to but the DOT4.
    Just my .02.
    Sarge may have better chemical analysis.

  16. #16
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VENOMOUS View Post
    Actually it's hard to find a non-synthetic brake fluid in DOT 3 or 4. Most on the shelves are synthetic to produce a much higher boiling point wet and dry.
    I do and have always ( since evolved) used the DOT4 for the higher boiling point since our slaves are in the bellhousing and subjected to alot of heat. FOr the brakes, well I did some testing. Try on a 50 degree day, car cold form overnight, going 0-100/ back to 0 and immediately remove wheels and measure temp of brake lines near caliper, caliper itself,brake fluid itself and coming up with temps in teh 300 range a DOT 4 was my only reassurance against brake fade at the end of the 1/4 or provked highway run. I figured ( haven't tested) that if the slave is subjected to as much heat from the clutch and flywheel that it was only reasonable to but the DOT4.
    Just my .02.
    Sarge may have better chemical analysis.
    Oooops,,,,I meant to say silicone, not synthetic. Sorry.

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