New Clutch won't fully disengage

**JaredTbo** · 01-02-2009, 02:26 PM

A buddy and I just put a new Spec stage 2+ clutch/alum press plate, alum flywheel, new slave and master cyl in my 00 SS. After doing the entire project twice because we couldn't get the clutch to disengage, we put in an extra spacer behind the slave cyl in addition to the one that came from Spec. Now at least it's drivable, but it's obvious it's somewhat grabbing. Putting it in first gear at a stop is very tough, reverse is pretty much unusable. I know the standard answer is to bleed it more, but we've literally spent hours bleeding it using every technique we read here and from several mechanics. Is this normal and will go away with break-in? Should we put in extra spacers? Any other ideas?

**BowTied** · 01-03-2009, 05:51 PM

I put in a Spec (al. press. plate) and al. flywheel with a new slave. Mine engaged and disengaged from the start. The engagement feel gets better with some use.

I'd remove the shim. It is there to ensure the clutch engages fully. You have the opposite problem...so I'd remove both. So now you are thinking...then why did adding one help! I can't be sure but it might be due to a combo of how things were seated and possibly torqued...along with some break in from the previous attempts and driving.

But you are dealing with something I wouldn't be wating on time or brake-in to alleviate!

**side2000** · 01-03-2009, 08:30 PM

does your pedal still release all the way like the stocker did? you may need to adjust your master at the pedal. only other thing i can tell you is maybe get an adjustable slave.

the "madden answer" would be to make sure you have enough fluid.

**JaredTbo** · 01-03-2009, 09:45 PM

Yep, fluid level is good and pedal quickly relieves all the way. The pedal is actually much more firm through its whole travel than stock, but actuation of the clutch happens right at the floor.

**side2000** · 01-04-2009, 04:52 AM

are you using stock slave? did the shaft bend? a lotta times the shaft bends because of the added spring pressure of clutch

**JaredTbo** · 01-04-2009, 08:30 AM

It's a new slave, but just a standard AC Delco replacement. The shaft didn't seem bent, but we didn't inspect it super close so we'll have to take a look when we drop it again next weekend like we're planning.

**Y2KArcticSS** · 01-04-2009, 08:46 AM

I had the exact same problem with installing my LS7 clutch, turned out to be a bad master cylinder. Had pressure, everything seemed fine, except that the clutch would never fully disengage. Replaced the master again, and I was on the road again. Hope you find a solution soon!

**BowTied** · 01-04-2009, 10:50 AM

Originally Posted by Y2KArcticSS

I had the exact same problem with installing my LS7 clutch, turned out to be a bad master cylinder. Had pressure, everything seemed fine, except that the clutch would never fully disengage. Replaced the master again, and I was on the road again. Hope you find a solution soon!

I'd have a blown a cylinder over that!

Compared to going back into the clutch...I might try the old master if you still have it.

**Mars** · 02-21-2009, 01:45 PM

We had the exact same prob w/1st and reverse, but ours is and yours may not be our racing headers (hooker) the #7pipe was just inches away from the clutch line and cooking the fluid, therefore burning out the slave & master, we had to replace the slave and master of course but then put a heat shield inbetween the pipe and the line and also heat resistant sleeves (doubled) around the line to keep it insulated. No more problems, smoothe as silk. Also bleeding, take the line completely out of the car it has to be at an angle, won't work while in the car. hook line to something have master at the bottom of line and bleed - north to south/top to bottom never level, won't work.