New clutch time!
This is a discussion on New clutch time! within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; Well if anyone has been playing along at home the clutch I had questions about blew the slave so I'm ...
12-10-2012, 12:07 PM #1
New clutch time!
Well if anyone has been playing along at home the clutch I had questions about blew the slave so I'm going to be replacing it all.
Car has 57 k miles, my current mods are: umi.moly phb, lcas, full length torque arm, relocation bracket, sfcs, strano springs n sways, konis, ls6 intake and valley cover, a.c delete, tsp 1 7/8 LTs ORY, SLP powerflo catback , volant Cai, mild tune before headers n intake. I will also be doing a 228r cam this winter and a tune so what clutch should I go with?
Car only comes out on weekends to the autox, road course or strip and a bunch of shows. So I was thinking an ls7 with aluminum flywheel? Do you think that'll do me or do I need more?
Also what about my master keep? Replace w stock? Or tick?
A new slave, any special brands and of course a remote bleeder. Anything else I'm missing? Thanks for your input I'm hoping to get it in around the first of the year once I get back home for the holidays after a month of travel for work.
12-10-2012, 08:50 PM #2
Personally, being that your car is going to be geared more for abuse (shifting a lot) for autocross, hard shifts under full throttle at the strip, and you'll have some decent torque under the hood I would go with an aftermarket clutch other than the LS7.
MC = Tick. Again, you'll be using the clutch a lot and often with shifts and the way you'll be running the car the hydraulics will heat up. I would recommend the Tick.
GM Slave is pretty solid.
Just for info, a steel flywheel will take the abuse better.
12-11-2012, 08:15 AM #3
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Henryetta/Tulsa Oklahoma
- 2016 Camaro SS
I have to agree with Jon. While the LS7 is a pretty solid clutch, there are others out there similarly priced that can take the abuse you will be giving better. Spec comes to mind. I have personally only dealt with the LS7 myself, and it is a GREAT clutch for the daily stuff, but I've done a LOT of reading up over the years here, and haven't heard too many bad things about Spec clutches. Jon, aren't you running a Spec?
Tick definitely on Master, GM slave is fine (I've actually never seen anyone here go with an aftermarket version)
Aluminum flywheel is lightweight....but that can cost you in the long run. Like Jon said, steel will hold up better against what you are going to be doing to it.
12-11-2012, 03:21 PM #4
does an after market MC help with cleaner shifts, have to really muscle 2-3 shifts in my t/a and really affects 1/4 performance. really have to fight to get it to go when the rpm is way up.
12-11-2012, 03:47 PM #5
Yes. It increases hydraulic fluid pressure by using a larger diameter orifice. Tick is the only MC which accomplishes this that I am aware of.It's stock.
12-11-2012, 03:57 PM #6
thanks i thought maybe i was a shitty driver!! lol is it something a shadetree mechanic can do in a weekend?
12-11-2012, 04:01 PM #7
Simple install. Takes around 1.5-2 hrs I believe.
12-11-2012, 04:03 PM #8
cool thanks for the heads up, i'm sure it will make a huge difference.
12-11-2012, 06:38 PM #9
So I see spec or monster is recommended over ls7, but I would like to know why. The science behind, if you will. And which version of those clutches?
And what is this aluminum flywheel wear issue? For one I know the termies come with one and I'm in for less rotating mass so what exactly am I looking for it to wear out with? Before the clutch does?
And before anyone mentions it.. I'm keeping my ten bolt til it goes because I prefer the lesser unsprung weight until I end up with an aluminum center 9.
Thanks all, loving the input!
12-11-2012, 07:48 PM #10
I have been running a Spec Stage 3+ for around 4-5 years without a single issue. 2 of those years it has been abused with 500rwhp/440rwtq. It engages well and the pedal feel is still firm, but not overwhelming.
An LS7 clutch handles well in a Corvette because a Corvette weighs less than an F-body. I believe we spoke about this before. A LS7 clutch is designed to be used as a DD type clutch IMO. It isn't designed to be beaten on or take the harsh engagements like a Spec or RAM or Monster clutch can.
You will not be doing high RPM dump after dump on a regular basis with a LS7 clutch.
As far as Aluminum, as an engineer, I know AL is considerably less weight which in turn offers less rotational mass. The benefit is you can achieve rpm's faster and use less torque. However, the downfalls are you cannot launch hard. Steel also handles heat better. Steel is also preferred for better driveability from stop light to stop light. As far as "power"...you will not notice a difference between the two.
12-11-2012, 09:09 PM #11
Well this high rpm clutch dump is something my car has never seen and probably won't at least not in the forseeable future...a trip to the strip is not what my car has been built for nor have i launched over 3k. and autox starts leave much to be desired in terms of traction so I basically baby it off the line. Now I will be shifting wot around the track but I don't see that as overly abusive but correct me if wrong. So in terms of the flywheel do I really benefit more from steel or aluminum at this point?
12-11-2012, 09:12 PM #12
Also when around town cruising if it chatters a bit or needs higher revs to engage smoothly this would be no different than what I've had before with the stocker but I suspect that is mostly from weak motor mounts
12-12-2012, 10:59 AM #13
Aluminum would be my guess.
12-12-2012, 11:00 AM #14
I run a steel flywheel and have no personal experience with an AL one, only what I've read here and on other car forums.
12-31-2012, 06:49 PM #15
it's all about inertia. an aluminum flywheel will allow you to rev quicker, but a steel flywheel will make your car more stable and less prone to stalling at lower rpms... same deal w/ my 450 dirtbike... they idle at 1500+rpm w/ a super light flywheel so when you come out of a corner or a creek, you don't stall... people add weights to the flywheels to keep the crank rolling steady so they don't stall so easy.. same as aluminum to steel... idk if you can relate, but it's the same deal... i've always understood that aluminum is for high rpm applications, and drag racers love steel to get outta the hole...ceramic pacesetters, 3" tsp rumbler tds, clear lid, frost mail order, umi sfcs + stb, 6 pt cage, b&m line lock, short throw, hays clutch, centerforce flywheel, 160 stat, couple fancy new seats, cags-air-egr-rear seat delete...
n2o in the works
01-01-2013, 04:55 AM #16
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
I keep going back to the aluminum flywheel swap HP Pontiac tested. They found an additional ~8 HP at the rear wheels after the swap, I believe it was the only change made. I'm on the fence if I regret not doing that when I put on the LS7 clutch last Fall. RPM transmissions advised against the aluminum unit.
Anything you can do to allow power to transfer to the wheels is usually a good thing, instead of getting eaten up by friction/inertia.
01-01-2013, 12:32 PM #17
A few builders I spoke to recommended the steel flywheel that's why I went with it. I would agree with you'll see more power to the ground with the AL unit. However, at what expense? Are you going to be replacing it more often than the steel one? Anyone have any data on longevity between the two?
01-02-2013, 11:14 AM #18
ever seen a flywheel grenade and come thru the floorboard??? i'd stick to steel, especially if you're gonna go down the strip...
01-02-2013, 12:01 PM #19
Yes, which is why anyone who runs at the strip should have a scatter shield or security blanket at minimal for self-protection. Most people don't though.
01-02-2013, 02:08 PM #20
Well I think I'm at a monster stage 2 or 3 right now.... with no plans over 450 HP in the near future. Mostly autox n rr minimal street duty and maybe one trip to the strip a year. Any thoughts...also I'll continue down the lightweight flywheel path....should I?
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