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Is it my clutch,petal assembly,or both that is sticking under WOT on NX wet 150 shot?

This is a discussion on Is it my clutch,petal assembly,or both that is sticking under WOT on NX wet 150 shot? within the Manual Transmission forums, part of the Drivetrain category; I have a ZO6 clutch now on my '99 Camaro 6spd with 4.10 gears, but still, from a dead stop ...

  1. #1
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    Is it my clutch,petal assembly,or both that is sticking under WOT on NX wet 150 shot?

    I have a ZO6 clutch now on my '99 Camaro 6spd with 4.10 gears, but still, from a dead stop at WOT, my clutch sticks after the NX wet 150 kicks on and shifting to the next gear and stomping on the throttle again just leaves the clutch partially stuck in forever....burning it up and not allowing the full power to the ground.

    Is it my clutch?
    Is it my petal assembly?
    Is it my 4.10 gears?
    Is it all the above?

    Anything I can do besides comments telling me to change clutches?

    If I do a roll out it is fine....just when I use it from a dead stop is when I have this prob? I remember reading some sort of GM recall or problem with petal assemblies as well?

    Thanks,

    Rich
    Last edited by Z28er; 09-13-2006 at 12:43 PM.

  2. #2
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    could also be the main rear seal leaking on the clutch.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Its not your gears, I can tell you that much.

    Is the whole pedal not returning to its top position, or is it the clutch itself that won't engage?? Either way it sounds like its a hydraulic problem, if the clutch was slipping due to a seal leak it would still engage all the way, but it would slip once engaged.

    If the clutch won't even engage all the way, first thing I'd check is hydraulics.

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    Senior Member Blown Interceptor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Its not your gears, I can tell you that much.

    Is the whole pedal not returning to its top position, or is it the clutch itself that won't engage?? Either way it sounds like its a hydraulic problem, if the clutch was slipping due to a seal leak it would still engage all the way, but it would slip once engaged.

    If the clutch won't even engage all the way, first thing I'd check is hydraulics.


    I gave him my hyd setup from my 2000 Z-28, that I upgraded to the new hyd. clutch system. Could the clutch need to be bled?


    Jason

  5. #5
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown Interceptor View Post
    I gave him my hyd setup from my 2000 Z-28, that I upgraded to the new hyd. clutch system. Could the clutch need to be bled?

    Definitely sounds like a hydraulic system bleeding issue. If theres air in the lines it will make the clutch/pedal react slowly or act strangely.

    Bleed the system first, and then diagnose it from there.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Blown Interceptor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    Definitely sounds like a hydraulic system bleeding issue. If theres air in the lines it will make the clutch/pedal react slowly or act strangely.

    Bleed the system first, and then diagnose it from there.

    Thanks for the info!

  7. #7
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    I guess I am really running:

    Z06 clutch/flywheel + drill mod + upgraded hydro's

    To desc how it feels...when I nail it and the juice kicks in, it feels like the petal needs to come out another few inches for the clutch to be released all the way...of course, once I shift to 2nd, it was burning the clutch in first, so it cont's to burn it in second. It is really annoying. This is how my old clutch was also. You could smell the clutch burning at the track too since it was not coming all the way out.

    How do I bleed my system the right way? Any good write ups? Is it easy?

    Rich

  8. #8
    Senior Member Blown Interceptor's Avatar
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    It's just like bleeding the brakes, if I remember correctly...there should be a nipple and top of the tranny, right?

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    Okay, maybe you guys think I am an idiot for doing this, but my local GM dealer said to bring it in at 8:15 tomorrow morning and for $89 they will bleed my hydraulics and check for any leaks.

    At least I can rule these out if they bleed it correctly, which they said they will.

    Think $89 is a crazy amount to pay? Think they will do it right?

    Rich

  10. #10
    Senior Member Blown Interceptor's Avatar
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    I would do it. 89.00 bucks to do that by GM. Not too bad.

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    Yah, unless Mr. goodwrench fucks the car up trying to get it on a lift, etc...bow out my fenders, etc...sometimes nightmares come true buddy!

    Rich

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    GM: DEALERS will take it to ya if they can,so that price is good i say do it. but expect them to tell you it wont bleed right or something and say you need all new shit.

  13. #13
    Junior Member extanker's Avatar
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    sticking clutchs are issue with new vettes and no one has the big cure. ya did the drillmod you say. were was the restrictor ? vettes were in the line at slave while birds are in line at master ? what color is fluid any gunk in master are lines too close to exhaust. if driving normal were does clutch first engage eg:high pedal release or off the floor

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